I’m trying to install something into a stud in my room, but there’s a outlet right next to where the stud is. It’s kinda like this diagram.
Is it safe to assume the wiring/conduit would run to the side, not in front, of the stud in a typical, relatively new (2009) apartment?
The wiring would most definitely run up the side of the stud, if this is your question.
Generally, Romex cable is run through holes drilled more-or-less in the center of the stud. If you are worried about drilling into, or cutting the cable, buy or borrow a stud sensor with a power sensor, like this.
How could it run across the front of a stud? The sheetrock wouldn’t sit flat.
And actually installing something “into a stud”, if that means actually cutting into the stud, isn’t a great idea, either. Details, please.
if things are done correctly in original construction then nonmetallic cable would go through a hole in the center of the stud or along the middle of the stud; that doesn’t mean it always is done that way though.
if it is in conduit then it might not be set back because the wires are protected.
if you are screwing or nailing into the stud then plan to go no more than a third of its depth.
if nonmetallic cable does not go through a hole in the center of the stud, like through a hole closer to the surface or notched into the stud, then it needs to be covered by a steel plate that you can’t nail or screw into.
And in theory, if you had really great builders, anywhere they went though a stud, they’d put in a nail plate.
But yeah, it’ll run up the side of the stud that the outlet is on. Since it’s an apartment, I’d actually, be willing to bet it doesn’t go vertical, but actually horizontal, through the studs to the next outlet in the room, unless there is a switch directly above it (or a stud bay or two over).
Vertical runs usually mean the wire is heading for an attic or basement. Either way, get yourself a stud sensor with an AC detector on it and check for yourself if you’re worried. You could also do some due diligence and pop the cover off the outlet and see where the wires exit. If there’s only one wire coming in and it enters from the bottom or side, I’d venture a guess that it doesn’t go up towards the ceiling.
ETA, if by “install something in a stud” you just mean drive a nail/screw into a stud, yeah, they run next to them not in front, just like in the picture you linked to. They can cross through them, but for as long as we’ve had romex, we’ve just hit the nail on the head and hoped for the best. It’s pretty rare to hit a power wire, especially at picture hanging height. Also, you should have about an inch and a half before you’d hit a wire.
Thanks, all, for the advice. I’ll probably do it and see what happens. I’m just installing towel holders and bike racks and such; nothing major.
For future reference, though, any recommendations on a stud finder with AC detection? The stud finder I currently have is amazing, but doesn’t do AC detection. The other ones I’ve tried (especially the Zircon ones) were horrible.
We used FVDs (foreign voltage detectors) when I was a Uverse phone/TV/internet installer for AT&T. They work fairly well to detect AC current through sheetrock. You could find the wire pretty easily that way.
Upon Googling, the prices on those are about $100, so it might be easier to borrow one. If you know someone who works for a local telephone company, they always have one with them.
I use a contractor grade Stanley Stud finder. The AC detection is very sensitive and a complete pain in the ass. I hate it but all the decent quality stud finders seem to have this feature - I think it is pointless personally. In all my years of carpentry I have never accidentally hit a power cable (to my knowledge). The AC feature just gets in the way of what I am really trying to do which is to find a stud. If I am doing demolition and there is concern about cutting through a power cable I shut off the breaker.
The cable will be on the side of the stud that the electrical box is on, and will travel up the stud to waist height at which point it will travel along the wall horizontally through holes augured through the middle of the studs. There should be nothing below the box.
Just wanted to add I have installed hundreds of towel racks, various hardware and a gazillion cabinets and shelves. You find a stud where you can but often you will have to use a drywall anchor for at least one of the the mounts. I find the metal screw type anchors to be the best, plastic screw anchors and expansion anchors are marginal at best and toggle anchors can make a mess. I pilot a hole for the anchor with a Phillips screw driver or a masonry bit and tighten the anchor till it is flush and firm being careful not to strip.
For something heavier you can mount a ledger to studs and your hardware to the ledger.
Here’s a photo of several types. I prefer the ones on the right and left, as the others can pull out.
I see, thanks. I won’t worry about it then. If I fry, I’ll report back from the hospital bed.
Yep, I have a collection of tiny toggle bolts for just this purpose. They’re dreamy.
you can’t count on having the horizontal cable runs being at any particular height.
phone, signal, AV might be run at waist height. power likely then run lower between 1 and 2.5 feet off the floor.
Molly Bolts, the one on the left, are a pain to get out. There’s tricks to doing it, but I’ve fount it easier to hammer them in a little and spackle over it. Personally, I like the ones that look like giant plastic screws. I’ve never had a problem with those, as long as I go a bit oversized. The only issue I’ve had with them is if you end up hitting a stud and then you’ve got a bit hole in a place where a drywall screw would have been just fine on it’s own (and the anchor won’t go in any further).
I’ve had very bad luck with electronic stud finders. The ones I bought several years ago were erratic and useless. I recently had to find studs to hang curtain rods on outside walls. So I thought if I bought an expensive Stanley Stud Finder they may have improved over the years. This one worked no better than my older ones so I took it back to the hardware store and got my money back. I’m wondering if the insulation in the outside walls, especially the foil vapor barrier was the problem?
I went back to my tried and true way of finding studs. A) Take the trim plate off a nearby electrical outlet and see the stud it is attached to, immediately to the left or right. B) Locate the vertical column of nails/screws holding sheet rock to the stud using a super-strong magnet. Put masking tape on the wall and draw a line through nail/screw locations using a four-foot long level.
dense or thick material and metal messes with detection.
I have never run into foil vapour barrier but I imagine it would confuse a stud finder. Stud finders are hit and miss, some are better than others even among identical models. My current Stanley is not nearly as good as the old one which looked exactly the same. I know a lot of carpenters hate the things and knock on the wall to find the stud which has always worked poorly for me.
I usually make a couple passes, vary the depth setting if I am having trouble. The most important thing seems to be calibrating on a hollow space so varying where you start from can make a big difference. Some times its damn obvious and other times you get some weirdness. Some walls are possessed.
I use your method of looking inside the box pretty often. A lot off the time I am dealing with open boxes any way and it can be quicker than pulling out the stud finder.
Reply, I was just relating my own preference, but I don’t want you to get zapped. It never hurts to flip the breaker before you do the work.
Except that breaker has to be turned back on at some point and now you’ve got a hot towel rack. Waiting to bite someone who had nothing to do with that installation.
I’ve never been paranoid enough to check afterwards. Just saying, opening the breaker isn’t exactly an answer.
Obligatory XKCD
Actually, in this case, it’s the mouseover content that’s relevant.
