So our nice new 2002 Accent (blue) has some scratches and scuffs that accumulated over the winter.
The dealership says it would cost about a hundred bucks to buff them out, but I have heard that I can do it myself using products available at local hardware stores.
So, what’s the best way to do this?
Difficult to say without seeing the damage.
For shallow scratches you can buy stuff that you rub over the affected area and it merges the existing paint with the scratch. Acts like polish I think, taking a thin layer of paint from around the scratch to fill it in with. It’s cheap and simple to use, and its called ‘scratch remover’ - not being sarcastic, thats what the stuff I have is called.
However, if your dealership says a hundred bucks (and assuming they are honest, and I guess some of them are) they sound like pretty hefty scratches which this stuff wont be able to cover up.
Scratches? Or gouges? It depends on the depth. If they’re surface type, light scratches, you can get filler polishes that will cover 'em up, but if they’re deep, then a pro job is probably in order. And 100 bucks sounds pretty cheap for a buff job.
Yeah, there’s a few of them there anyway. Just surface scratches… No gouges. Just stuff that would be caused by say, Ice coming off with some salt beneath… Just minor.
Toothpaste works quite well. So does ordinary car polish (particularly “cut and polish”) as long as the scratches haven’t penetrated significantly into the undercoat.
A couple of products I’ve head good luck with are a clay bar, sold at most auto parts stores, and 3M Imperial hand glaze.
The clay bar is exactly what it sounds like, it’s a small piece of waxy clay that can remove minor surface imperfections and embedded dirt. They’re used by auto body shops to remove paint overspray. I’ve used them many times and they work like magic. Don’t use any old clay, spring for the stuff meant for cars. Also, it will remove any and all wax on your paint, so always follow the clay bar with a good wax job.
The 3M glaze is available in machine and hand forumulas. It’s very slightly abrasive and helps with buffing out scratches. The machine version of this product is probably what the shop will use if you pay them. This is also available at auto parts stores.
I would avoid trying home-brew remedies like toothpaste. The abrasives are not formulated for use on paint, and they will vary highly from brand to brand. Also, some toothpastes contain peroxide and other stuff that could discolor your paint.
Finally, even if you can’t get the scratches completely out, you can make them much less noticible by how you polish and wax the car. DO NOT use a swirling motion. This leaves wax lines running in all directions which catch light. Instead, when you are removing the wax, use an up and down motion on vertical panels, and a front to rear motion on horizontal panels.
Rubbing Compound is what they usually use, but if they are so deep you can see gray, then you need another approach.
By far the best thing is visit an auto paint STORE, not a shop, which has paint for sale & they can look at it & give you just what you need.
RE: Rubbing compound and to a lesser extent polishing compound.
Be VERY CAREFUL when using these products. The way they work is actually by removing the paint as they are a fine abrasive.
If you use a power buffer it is entirely possibly to remove too much paint… in extreme cases to the metal underneath. I’ve seen it happen.
Usually, a good "cleaner wax’ safe for clear coats will satisfy.
That is the fiurst step, since it is most mild.
Step to is to go to a scratch remover product or “polishing compound” (which should be followed by a waxing). You just might be able to get too rough with these and dull the surface.
Next is the dreaded 'rubbing compound"…but there is hardly any reason to use this on a modern surface with the type of scratches you have. Rubbing compound will remove paint. It will remove paint.