General disclaimer: I am seeking information only and can not hold anyone (but myself) responsible for the consequences of any action I take.
That said - I have a 93 Plymouth Duster, and the ignition switch is apparently broken. The key goes in & turns, and the power turns on (radio works, that sort of thing). But it doesn’t manage to catch the switch that actually starts the motor. Just from the way the key feels when it turns, I’m pretty sure this is a purely mechanical problem in the switch itself, not electrical, not a bad coil, etc.
I’m thinking about trying to replace it myself. Hell, nobody’s going to steal the thing so I might as well hook it up to a button.
My question is - I have some mechanical knowledge, but little (if any) automotive knowledge. Once I get the cover on the steering column off, how difficult would it be to actually replace the ignition? Is it something I should even attempt, or should I bite the bullet & have the thing towed to a real mechanic?
My info doesn’t show a Duster in '93. Is it a different year, or a different model (e.g., Caravelle/Caravelle Duster)?
If I understand correctly, you turn the key to the “start” position and get no response.
If the key won’t turn all the way to “start” (spring-loaded to return to “on” when released), the problem is likely in the ignition lock cylinder, which is mechanical.
If it turns to “start” but feels funny doing so, it may be the ignition switch, which is mechanical and electrical. But that’s not the only possibility. A faulty neutral safety switch (or clutch safety switch), faulty starter relay, or faulty starter can also result in no response when the key is turned to “start.” Before replacing anything, I’d test these starter circuit components. Diagnosis by parts replacement can get pretty expensive if you guess wrong.
I got the car for free from my sister, so I didn’t look too closely at it. It says “Duster” on the back of it, but after looking around the web a bit I think it’s a ‘official’ model name is Sundance.
My ’93 Pathfinder had a problem with the windshield washer control. I was easily able to pull the plastic cowling off of the steering wheel column. It was about 6-8 Phillips screws under the column itself. It came apart in two pieces. One on top and one underneath.
I then was able to access the turn signal switch. It was also very easy to remove it and spray it with some compressed air. The small cans of air that folks use to clean out computers. Fixed it right up.
Now. You are talking about the ignition switch…….
If I where you, I would see how hard it may be to take off the cowling of the steering column. If you can, then find the ignition switch and hit it with a bunch of compressed air. Also, check that all wires are firmly seated and at the least, wiggle each one and clean them up.
DON’T pull all the wires off the ignition switch at once unless you are absolutely sure you can put them back. Take pictures AND make a diagram.
I have an old Infiniti from the same era that (sometimes) behaves the same way as your Plymouth. When it won’t start in park I always find it will start from neutral.
This would be a good time to ask if it’s an automatic.
I’ve gone out & played with it a bit more, and I think it’s a problem in the cylinder itself. It just doesn’t feel right when turning the key - kind of loose. The electrical power still comes on with no problem. I haven’t tried to pop-start it yet, but that’s soon enough.
A duster is a “p” body . A comparable car would be a plymouth sundance , dodge shadow. The way you are describing the problem I’m not sure which part you need. The key cylinder is the part the key fits into . The switch is the electrical part that the cylinder fits into. Please advise and I will tell you how to get it out.
Oops ! I started that last post before I went to lunch and finished after I got back. To remove the cylinder first remove the covers over the column. Should be 3 phillips head screws. You will be able to see the iginition switch : black box with clear ring around the cylinder. On the side, there is a silver bracket with a screw going through the bracket , through the switch , and into the cylinder. You will need to remove the screw. It is a security torx screw. I can’t remember the size , I believe it is a 20 , but it’s been a while. Maybe you can find a pal with a set. Remove this screw and turn the cylinder , with the key in it to acc. position and it should slide out.
Security torx screws are T27S. I found out the hard way.
If the ignition cylinder is the same one used on a early Dodge minivans, you won’t have to take apart the steering column. Look at the switch and see if there is a small hole in the metal face. If there is, put the switch in the ACC position, straighten out a paper clip and carefully insert it in the hole. The cylinder lock should come out. You can then take the cylinder to your local auto parts store for a replacement. You can have the replacement rekeyed to match your current key for about $20 at a locksmith so you won’t need different keys for the doors and ignition. Plus with the cylinder removed, you can test the ignition switch itself, you should be able to start your car with a slotted screwdriver. If you encounter the same problems as before, it is the switch and not the lock cylinder.
You can try moving the key totally the opposite direction first then move it to start. It won’t fix the trouble, but it may allow you to start it a few more time
I have trouble recalling which type of switch is in that damn thing.
OmegaMan looks to have it covered. Some locks do have a retainer pin that has to be pushed in once the key is turned.
If your key is turning to start and nothing is happening with it being a Dodge I am going to first think it is going to be the pressed on gear on the back of the lock cylinder. Dodge/Chrysler locks have a history of this piece breaking.