If you have a splice in any line in your house the splice should be inside an electrical box.If not you need to correct this now.
Not close enough. Darn. 53091 area here.
Specifically, it’s 17 hours and 25 minutes(1,049 miles).
Will you be here this afternoon, or tomorrow morning? <g>
gmak
Knock, Knock!! 
I have not had any further problems with this issue since my last closing posts.
However, some of my motorcycle hangout peeps, the ones that professionally do vatious types of electrical work, tell me…
I should go to the attic, and find the wiring from the breaker box headed to the bad circuit outlets.
They suggested I get a battery driven test light that can detect a hot electrical circuit through the wiring, without penetration. But, of course, the means the circuit has to fail again. Something that’s not currently happening.
But, the most important thing they described is that they say there will be a wire from the breaker, going to a junction box. From the junction box, a unique wire will exit for each of these two outlets on this circuit. The inference here is that the problem is existing within the junction box.
Test the power on each side of the juncrion box with the test light. A hot input, but cold output obviously indicates the junction box as the problem source.
The electrician never mentioned a junction box. Is that true? The hangout guys say this is code, and a 1974 construction era would not predate this particular specification of the code. I assumed a single wire came from the breaker to the first outlet on the circuit. Then, another wire ran from this first outlet to the second outlet, and third, and fourth, and so on. But, maybe that’s more like DC than each outlet having a hot, neutral, and ground.
So, it sounds like this junction box variable could easily be the weak link, if it does exist.
I may prowl around in the attic to determine the configuration, if I can. I suspect that the shear ease with which this tracing was described will actually be significantly more complex, at least for me.
These comments are really just rhetorical, and to update anyone who may still maintain any interest in this topic. Comments are of course, appreciated. But, I was not trying to resurrect the thread with my own discovery, which is probably elementary to everyone here.
Thanks,
gmak
Very few houses will have junction boxes in the attic. Normally the wires go from breaker box to outletbox then from outlet box to outlet box. That was why earlier I suggested turning off the breaker and locating all the outlets that go dead. Then when you have an electrical failure recheck all outlets on that breaker.
a junction box might be used if a wire run from the breaker box went midway between a couple destinations for that circuit. though putting a junction box in adds its own difficulties (like having a splice where people later don’t expect). the number of wires and the number of electrical devices may not indicate to the electrician that there would be a junction box elsewhere. extra splices and junction boxes are against good practice.
The weather here has turned cold and wet, but I’ve still had no further problems with this issue. Earlier, I had suggested that the last wave of cold/wet weather might have been a factor in this failure. Guess not! Maybe it’s a varmint?
Everything is sailing right along with problems or outages.
Thanks,
gmak
Well, I have done the isolation test you described. Except I kinda’ did that early on when I was locating the correct breaker. The breaker only controls thee two outlets,
that’s all. As I’ve stated, I seem to no longer be having the failure. But, I’m not assuming it’s gone, it’ll reappear. Someday.
gmak
The junction box scenario didn’t sound right to me. But, these guys do electrical work all the time. I guess it’s preference. Like most things, it can be done a number of ways unless there are rules specifically prohibiting.
gmak
For anyone that may be interested in this problem conclusion, I’ve finally had the problem corrected.
As restatement, I had a kitchen circuit that would go cold, and then return hot after a short waiting period. But, even this was extremely intermittent. I’m writing now only because the circuit had finally gone cold long enough to be diagnosed. I even had an electrician coming, and had to cancel because a power outage activated the circuit when the power returned.
So, here’s the basic story, as briefly as I can report.
First, the circuit had 4 outlets, rather than the 2 that I thought, and had replaced without success.
The two outlets I replaced were #3 and #4 on the 4 drop circuit.
I learned after my original 12/2011 posting here, that outlet #2 seemed to participate in the failure also. Outlet #1(which I never knew was a participant) had never failed.
But, #1 was really the culprit. As you may recall, all these outlets are those “backstab” type of installation. That’s where all the problems exist.
But the thing that thew me was that #1 never failed, so it must not be on the circuit. Not so, #1, as mosr #1’s, is first on the circuit. It’s failure would only occur due to a break back to the panel. Of course, #1 could easily fail to supply the #2, #3, and #4 outlets. And that’s what was happening.
Sounds pretty simple now, but the sparky that I hired couldn’t figure it out. But, in his defense, I could not recreate the failure while he was here. I eventually got one of my biker buddy electricians, and he seemed to understand/locate the problem pretty easily.
But, even at that, he re-twisted the #2 outlet and left. And then within 10 minutes we had to ask his return, where he re-twisted the #1 outlet. All has been working great since. We do have planned to replace the FPE panel in/near the fall.
Once again, thanks to everyone that tried so hard to help me with this nagging problem. I wanted to supply this conclusion so that anyone might benefit from my stupidity, and might recall part(s) of this as their own electrical problems arise.
Thanks again,
GMAK