Salt Water Chlorine Generator - Flow Switch?

Have this Q in at a pool - specific board, but it’s getting ignored

I am looking to add a SWCG to an in-ground pool.

Being cheap, I am attracted to the units specified as being for above-ground.

One of the critical differences, apparently, is the flow switch - found on IG designs, not so much on AG.

What does it do, and can the same effect be gotten by a timer?

There is only one thing which needs electricity, and that is the electrodes - if the flow switch simply delays the power to them until X water flow, could the same effect be gotten by simply delaying the energizing of the generator for 4 minutes, by which time the pump is fully primed and flow is at its peak?

nm - confirmed hypothesis.

Do not know much about chlorine generators, but know a lot about flow switches and their application.

The problem with your suggested timer is that the electrodes will be turned on even in a case when there is no flow of water - say someone turned off a valve or there’s an obstruction in the line or the pump failed. The current circuit maybe such that it tries to drive a constant current - and thereby the electrodes may get into a very high voltage when no water is present.

Please look into this.

For the time being, all starts are manual - I need to bleed the system every time I start the pump (slow leak - am sick of trying to find it).
So for now, there is no issue.
The flow switch is for completely automated (as in “timer” or more sophisticated) in which there are no eyes involved.
Either way - if the pump has been on for 5 minutes and there is still no water coming out of the filter, the possibility of burning a cell is a small concern - this is 2" PVC running about 20 psi (yes, another problem I am NOT messing with) - it had damned well better have a healthy discharge.
About the only way for that to fail would be water too low to enter skimmer or somebody taking an axe to the plumbing.

The current is 24 VDC operating an electrolysis operation involving less than 1 sq ft of electrode - I’m not certain what damage could be done to the titanium coating.

Titanium has the neat trick of turning NaCl (table salt) into Cl and something, if a trickle charge is placed across it.

Beats dumping bleach into the pool every other day.

(Bolding mine)

Statements like those above raises serious doubts in my mind about your expertise in this area. Recommend seeing a professional.

The flow switch is a safety device. Timers fail. Pumps fail. If the flow stops for any reason yuou want the power to the electrodes to be shut off.

Is that your professional opinion?

Care to point out my specific failures?

Can I not read a pressure gauge?

Do I routinely fail at noticing water level in pump basket?

Do I not know how to specify an electrical flow?

Is my understanding of the chemical reaction central to a salt water chlorine generator inadequate for the purposes of buying, installing, and operation same?

Your qualifications for your answers?

Yes, I know the flow switch’s purpose.

I may well end up buying a real in-ground unit with a little float (which costs $54.00 on Amazon to replace (these things ARE profit centers).

Or I may go to a plumbing supply store and buying a float switch or other flow detector.

But, for the couple of hours a day this would need to run, the chances of a good start followed by catastrophic failure are really slim.

But I don’t know enough about it to say…

usedtobe - I am not trying to pickup a fight. Chlorine causes lung damage at 60ppm and can kill you at around 1000ppm. Hence, it is important to stop chlorine production if there is no flow through the system (when chlorine can accumulate).

Is it worth your life to save a few dollars for a flowswitch ?

Also - you cited voltage for current. Titanium is great for wet chlorine but catches fire with dry chlorine.

If there is no water, there is no salt. Without salt, there is no chlorine.

If the water is stagnant, at the salinity used, the quart of water sitting in the electrodes will quickly have all of its salt converted and the process stops.

If these devices were capable of generating toxic levels of chlorine, they would not be sold for installation and use by anybody with the the money.

It is a non-concern.

How does dry chlorine get into the picture? Do you understand that these are specialized pieces of pipe used in the return lines to swimming pools containing thousands of gallons of water?

They use salt in the water to generate trace amounts of chlorine. A cell which is able to produce 1.5 pounds of chlorine in its life is common.

The current is supplied at 24 VDC. Is that better?

From NSF/ANSI 50 - 2009a Equipment for Swimming Pools, Spas,Hot Tubs and Other Recreational Water Facilities (please see your local library or search internet for the code) :

*In-line electrolytic chlorinator or brominator process equipment
14.3 Operational protection
Systems shall have an automatic mechanism for shutting off the electric power to the electrolytic cell whenever one or more of the following conditions exist:
– loss of electric power to the recirculation pump; and/or
– interruption of water flow through the electrolytic cell. *

You don’t want to follow the National Standard - hey that’s your choice. I am not sure the SDMB condones such activities.

Look - I am no expert on chlorination systems like I said before but the flow switch is there for a reason. Generating high levels of chlorine is one scenario, think also about generating hydrogen when there is water in the cell and no flow, or just heating up of the water in the cell. Or think about the current regulation system which tries to increase the voltage when there is not enough current going through - (this is a guess).

Let’s let it drop.