I don’t mean from the outside like you do when you install them - I mean should I just attack them sumbitches with a caulk gun - caulk all around where the glass meets the wood and where wood meets other wood?
So. My house was build in 1928 and the windows are original. I live in a historic district which makes replacing windows ridiculously impossible for reasons I do not understand, and plus I am not made out of money. However, I am paying for a lot of heat to wander out the windows. I have used heat shrink film over the ones in the nursery and might do it for the bedroom ones - I did that a few years ago and it did make a difference but obviously is not permanent.
However, for most of the house the cats are a factor, plus the film is really only good for a season. Would it help if I tried caulking all around the joints of the windows elsewhere in the house as outlined above? Would it be worth it? I can’t really tell if we’re getting drafts or if we’re just getting cold through the windows.
cold from radiation through the windows you will feel, with the back of your hand towards the window a few inches away, anywhere near the center of the window.
cold from a draft you will feel, on a windy day on the hair on the back of your hand, near the window cracks.
where window meets glass you can use putty or very thin bead of caulk.
where wood meets wood you can use rope caulk (it is a dry slightly sticky rope of clay like caulk) this you can remove and maybe reuse. it allows the windows to be used in summer.
having a draft reduces the effectiveness of the film.
I am sure that you should plug any holes, but could you not use a more elegant solution than plastic film like this Internal Double Glazing. I assume that there is an American equivalent.
They sell plastic film for windows. I love this product. Cuts out all the cold drafts and cut our heating bills by $35 a month. We saw our AC bills go down $50 a month. We used to need a sweater just to sit in our den. Not anymore.
scroll down to see photos of the installation. Anyone with a hairdryer can do this. We bought these kits at Home Depot.
God, I swear people don’t ever read OPs. I can’t use the film on windows where the cats go, because cats. I thought I’d mentioned but didn’t, that the windows are entirely unopenable. They’ve been painted shut. They’ve been nailed shut. They’ve had the cords cut. Whoever had this house before me wanted to make damned sure that none of these windows would EVER open. So a permanent solution is fine.
Yes you can caulk them. Anything you can do to reduce draft will help.
They will still be incredibly inefficient.
Beyond the glass they have an uninsalated column in the wall to the left and right.
Curtains would be my suggestion. The heavier thermal ones. Even those can get expensive when doing a whole house, but certainly cheaper than replacement windows.
Caulking will help. But it does absolutely nothing to stop the air penetration from the vintage single pane glass. Only a interior storm window or film will fix that problem. There are companies that make custom fit interior storm windows. They pop right into place. photo They won’t bother the cats or historical society.
Not in a historic district. Windows are always a big deal with historic preservation, I understand the OP’s frustration. I could buy a new house for less than some people spend on historic window rebuilds.
You could look into interior window inserts. They basically just fit into the window frame over top of the existing window, like the window film but more permanent. It will cost considerably more than a few tubes of caulk, but significantly less than replacement windows. I’ve only read about them but it’s an option to investigate.
I used to live in a 1920’s art deco block of flats in London. These flats were grade 2 listed which effectively meant that the owner could not alter the external appearance in any way. While I lived there the whole block changed hands and the new owners spent (in todays terms) £millions refurbishing the somewhat dilapidated building
All the windows were steel framed Crittall fixtures which had been allowed to go rusty and had gaps you could push a finger in. The new owners added insulation to the solid concrete walls and interior double glazing with sliding panels. This was fine by the authorities as it was not a structural change.
The house I now live in has double glazing on most windows. For some reason a large, non-opening window in the hall was left out. About ten years ago I fixed that heat shrunk plastic sheeting over it and in spite of the instructions saying that it should only last one or two seasons - it still looks fine. We don’t have cats, but two children managed to resist poking it.
If these are nice wood windows that are stained and finished then look into having them rebuilt. If they’re painted over pieces of crap then calk away.
It isn’t hard to fix up the old windows to make them tighter. They have been working for 90 years already and with some work will continue to work well for another 90. Replacing the ropes, reglazing the windows and adding bronze weather strips will take about 4-6 hours tops. Any you will have windows that work and should keep you warmer.
This seems like something you could DIY pretty cheaply, too. Tack a piece of small trim around the window frame, get a piece of glass cut with the edges sanded, and pop it in in the winter, remove in the summer. I bet you could do it for about $40 a window.
Glazing a window is a little different than caulking and it is certainly worth doing. It is, however, a lot of work, especially if your windows are the six over six type. In looking at all the instructions on the web for doing this, they all have you removing the sash from the window and removing each pane of glass. You aren’t likely to do this, although you may consider hiring someone to do it, esp on the south side of the house. When I did it, I left the sash in the window and did the best I could. (Thisis what I basically did, though not as neat).
One thing you might consider before doing anything is getting an energy audit on your house. What they did for me was to put a fan in the front door and find the significant air leakages using a smoke stick.
yeah, its a very, very easy DIY. measure the window. give yourself a bit of wiggle room to get it in. if the window opening is 32 inches, get the glass shop to cut it at 31 3/4. that 1/4 actually gives a 1/8 gap on each side.
run a *thin *bead of clear silicon around the edge of the moulding. insert glass and gently press into silicon.
hold it a couple mins.
that will hold it and it will be very air tight.
if you want to remove the glass later. skip the silicon. use a second moulding to sandwich the glass in place.
takes maybe one afternoon to do 5 or 6 windows. I’d cut and install the moulding while my wife went to the glass shop. We’d install the glass when she got back. two pairs of hands make it easier and safer to handle the glass.
