So, I just got back from Egypt a week ago

I suspect it’s likely that this thread will sink like a stone, but I have received a few messages from folks requesting I post about my trip and who am I to decline an opportunity to talk about myself? :wink:

Anyway, I spent 10 or so days in Egypt at the end of July and, all in all, it was pretty awesome. We spent a few nights in Cairo (well, Giza), then flew off to Luxor for a Nile cruise. The cruise was supposed to have 150+ people on it. . . but sailed off with 22, dropping down as low as 12 as people ended their cruise at various ports along the journey. We were a group of 4, for reference.

One notable thing is that tourism is way down. In fact, way doesn’t even accurately describe how deserted the whole place is. We never waited in line to do anything, in fact when we went to Memphis and Saqqara, we were literally the only people there. At the pyramids, there were 5 other tourists.

The biggest question I get asked: given the current situation there, were we scared?

The answer? I’ll spoiler box it for length: [spoiler] Before we left, absolutely. I don’t think I’ve ever so obsessively watched the news, refreshed Twitter (#Egypt, naturally), and Googled blogs. I read everything, talked to anyone I could, and ultimately we decided to give the trip a shot because the massive protests were relatively contained and it didn’t appear that anyone was targeting tourists. Was there a definite anti-American air about everything? Sure, but it seemed contained to our government and not us (not that I’m foolish enough to think an angry mob would make that distinction or anything).

Once there, though, I never really felt unsafe. We were smart: we didn’t go out in Cairo without a guide. In fact, apparently the US State Department requires body guards to go with American tourists when they’re doing high way travel there? So, we were fine. Other than anti-Obama graffiti and stuff, I never experienced even a moment of anti-Americanism (ya know, toward us, I mean). In fact, several vendors quite literally thanked God that we were there-- one shouting, “Americans! AMERICANS! It has been so long since we have seen Americans! Please! Please go back to your country and tell people how beautiful my country is!”

Were there protests? Absolutely. On our second day in Giza, when driving back from the pyramids to our hotel (Mena House), we saw a bunch of people starting to gather in the middle of the street with what I assume were pro-Morsi signs. That night, I went to bed early but was woken up at about 9 PM by explosions (which turned out to be fireworks). I sat out on our balcony and could hear VERY loud chanting and shouting not too far from the hotel. I later found out that a security guard at a nearby hotel started threatening the protesters, so they took his gun and then stabbed him :eek:. That said, our hotel had like, 4 levels of very serious security, so we never felt unsafe. Plus, I didn’t find out about that until after. :stuck_out_tongue:

It was definitely super surreal watching the protests on Al Jazeera. . . that were happening like, within a mile of me.

Oh, we did go to the Egyptian museum one day in Cairo, which is like, right next to Tahrir Square. We drove by the US Embassy, which was closed and completely covered in. . . well, I don’t read Arabic, but I’m going to assume that was not happy graffiti. Lots of Obama looking like Bin Laden and nooses and such. Anyway, the driver dropped us at the end of the street and the first thing we see is this– the old headquarters of the Mubarak government, completely burned out. Then, we all froze. Why? Because this was in front of us-- the entire street was completely lined with tanks. Now, apparently, this is to protect the museum from any rioters, but it’s still a bit unnerving. That said, all of the soldiers were quietly reading the Qur’an-- some waved, some said, “Welcome to Egypt” with a smile, and some even had flowers wrapped inside of their guns. Kind of cool, actually. [/spoiler]
Oh! I tooka bunch of pictures– in fact, while I’m far from any type of real photographer, I did buy a fancy new lens for my camera before I went, so I think my pictures came out not terribly badly, if I may say so myself. Apologies if I look crazy pants in some of the pictures, but it was really goddamned hot.

Alright, this is getting too long. I’m happy to answer any questions I can, since I know a lot of people are curious about this whole thing.

So what DIDN’T you enjoy about your trip? What would you do differently in hindsight, if anything?

What an experience. Who organized the trip, was it a regular commercial venture and what made you choose it? Would you recommend them to others?

Did you hear anything interesting from the ‘man on the street’ that isn’t being reported back here?

ETA: Removed simul-question.

I normally travel on my own; do you think the trip would have been safe for a single, slightly-built dude?

Your pictures are terrific. I especially like the nighttime ones, and the camel. :slight_smile:

I’d say the biggest meh for me was the cruise. Don’t get me wrong, it was a fantastic way to travel (a cruise. . . on the Nile!) between various sites and get to see a lot, but I’m really not a cruise person. My travel companions love cruises- they’re the type that take those booze cruises from LA to Mexico where you don’t do anything but gorge yourself on food and drinks for 3 days, never seeing a hint of the other nation. That stuff just isn’t my travel style at all. I want to meet locals. I want to hang out with locals. I want to be surrounded by people I can’t understand and order off of menus with wild hand signals, shrugs, and smiles, ya dig?

So, while the cruise really was awesome-- the ship was beautiful, the staff was phenomenal, the rooms were great-- it just isn’t my travel style. I felt really limited and almost kind of trapped. For example, at the urging of some folks on a Trip Advisor board, I ended up getting in contact with someone in Luxor before we even left and he offered to take us out and show us around (we, of course, verified he wasn’t a total weirdo :wink: ). This was extremely disconcerting to the staff on the ship and I mean, I get it: it’s their job to make sure the tourists are safe. But I was fine, I was happy, I felt safe, and I always had my cell phone on me (which the ship people all had). Still, I felt like I couldn’t stay out too late or leave too often without everyone being worried about me. Just. . .not my style. While I had a lot of fun, I feel like I would have had way more fun and had some awesome experiences if I was staying at a hotel.

Which, incidentally, is what I plan to do when I go back in November :).

I organized the trip. My friends always joke that I’m the travel agent, so each year, I plan where we go and everything we do. I, of course, get input from the others, but ultimately I decide everything.

In this instance, a friend and I have wanted to go to Egypt forever. Our first plan was in 2011 and we had everything all planned out, ready to pay at the end of January of that year. But, as you know, they had this little revolution thing and our dreams were dashed. Instead, we flew off to Fiji, which was lovely, but no Egypt. We’ve monitored Egypt over the last few years and when a Groupon for a Nile cruise popped up for $500 (7 nights, all inclusive), we threw caution to the wind and purchased it. Two other friends jumped on, too. While we aren’t normally the tour group kind of travelers, given the situation, we decided to find a reputable company and arrange our tours through them. I found a company on TA that had a 5 star rating and over 2000 reviews and they ended up being super amazing. I’d book with them over and over again :). It was Memphis Tours, if anyone is wondering.

What I would change: I learned after that while our Groupon seemed like an AWESOME deal compared to the posted prices on various travel websites, it apparently was not. According to the rep at Memphis that I spoke to, we could have saved at least $100+ on the cruise by booking it through them directly. Oops.

As far as man on the street type reports, I did definitely talk to a lot of people. I made several Egyptian Facebook friends along my journey, actually :). It’s funny because they definitely run the gamut politically-- one goes to pro-Morsi protests and is constantly posting about how the military is trying to steal power and money along with Obama. . . while the other says the Brotherhood are actual terrorists who basically gerrymandered their way into power. It’s all very interesting.

I guess the biggest surprising thing to me is how much worse the media makes things over there look. Don’t get me wrong, a 30 million person protest is no joke (and that did happen again on one of the last days I was there), but if you believed CNN, you’d think that the entire country was one giant war zone, lit up with Molotov cocktails and the blood of infidels or something. Now, I’ll grant you, as tourists, we weren’t hanging out in Raba’ Adawiya or anything and our guides/ the locals showing us likely made a point of keeping us away from the scary stuff, but. . . we never saw anything scary. Even when I was watching the protest outside my hotel on Al Jazeera, it was a total mind fuck. Like, I’m seeing the news cameras pan over an enormous crowd, all with lasers, and shouting. . . but then I look out the balcony and it’s not nearly as big as it seems on TV. I don’t know, it was just a bit weird.

Oh, speaking of a mind fuck: when we flew back from Luxor to Cairo, it was the night of the second 30 million person protest. We were a bit uneasy, to say the least. As the plane started to prepare for landing, getting lower and lower, suddenly our plane was lit up with green lasers. The whole way. Bright green lasers, like this but obviously we weren’t nearly that close. All the Egyptians on the plane couldn’t even be bothered to notice, but the four of us (the only non Egyptians on the plane) were like, glued to our windows, with wide eyes.

I wouldn’t really recommend that anybody go around Cairo alone, if nothing else because the traffic is insanity. Definitely worth hiring a legitimate tour company with a driver-- just take a personal tour like we did. You’ll see more, you’ll get around faster, and they can adjust plans if things get hairy. For example, on the night of the explodey protests in Giza, my friends were supposed to go see the sound and light show at the pyramids (I passed because that shit sounds dumb), but the tour company called two hours before and asked if they would mind switching to the next day, for safety reasons. That night, we watched the sound and light show from our balconies at Mena House anyway, but it kept getting interrupted by lots and lots of green lasers.

As far as the rest of the trip? As a woman, I wouldn’t have felt comfortable walking around alone, but I think if I were a dude I’d have been fine in Luxor, Edfu, Kom Ombo, Aswan, and Abu Simbel. Still though, I’d probably say hire a private guide though-- there are so many rules and things that we were thankfully taught by our guides which saved us a lot of headaches. For example, in the tombs and at temples, there are security guards everywhere and if they see you alone, they’ll come up and start trying to give you a tour or ask if you want to take a picture (a BIG no no). Our guide said just to flat out ignore them, like, totally turn the other direction, don’t respond even with no thank you. This worked for us beautifully. However, we saw other tourists stupidly listening and engaging the security guys, which led to what were effectively shake downs of these poor tourists.

And at one point, we were alone in a tomb in the Valley of the Kings (guides can’t go in the tombs there, they have to wait outside) and suddenly a security guy started shouting at my female friend. She was confused, thinking he was saying she was taking a picture (she wasn’t), so she kept saying, “No, I didn’t take a picture. No camera.” The guy was incensed. Screaming. He started screaming at our male companion, too. So, I just pulled down my hat, acted like I didn’t know those losers, then ran over to our awaiting guide outside, and said, “The security guy is screaming at Friend X and Friend Y in Arabic.” The guide literally dropped his stuff and ran in there to take care of it.

So, it turns out that the guy was screaming, “NO SALAA!” Which is “no praying.” He thought my friend was praying in the tomb.

Anyway, needless to say, I was thankful for having our guides. We learned a ton and they helped us avoid particularly bad faux pas. They were worth the money and I say that as someone who generally hates tours. I think the reason it was so good is we arranged private tours, catered to us.

Thank you! I’m certainly trying to pretend I know what I’m doing with that camera :).

<jealous>

Maybe one of these days, I’ll make it over there.

There’s no better time than the present. Seriously, when I look at pictures of the typical tourist levels prior to 2011 or even before June 30th of this year. . . holy cow, I would have gone insane. I can’t do that many annoying tourists. It was magical having the place to myself and that’s why I’m basically turning around and going right back. Hopefully the country will sort itself out soon and tourism will return (they are SO dependent on it there), but for now, I’m going to take advantage of the situation.

I TOTALLY dig. What a freakin’ experience. Gotta do it one day. I GOTTA.

Yes, we did Greece and Turkey in 2001, then our same tight knit group was to go to Egypt, Israel and Italy the following years but Sept. 11 put the kaibosh on those plans too. Thanks for your description, it sounds and looks fabulous and having it all mostly to yourself would be heavenly.

Did you climb up to the burial chamber of Cheops? I lived in Cairo for several months; when my boss came to visit, he wanted to do the usual pyramids/sphinx visit, but was fixated on seeing the burial chamber. After a miserable hot climb in a claustrophobic tunnel, staring at other peoples’ asses, we finally reached. . .an empty room. Not even a plaque to explain things. I just wonder if anything has changed since then.

Yes, you must! If you don’t mind a little protesting ;), now is a fabulous time. It’s cheap, there are no tourists, and did I mention there are no tourists?

Oh man, that’s awful! I think what ultimately settled it for me that I had to just go was the idea that no matter what, it’s not like the political stability of that region would ever reach what I expected from a nation I was vacationing in. I talked to a lot of Egyptians before I went and they all promised me it was fine. They were right. And, yes, it was AMAZING to have the places to myself!

We did not. Our guide said to us, “Look, I’m going to be honest with you: it’s INCREDIBLY hot, a terrible walk, and there’s literally nothing to see. If you want to do it, we’ll get you the ticket to do it, but I’m telling you. . . you’re going to be mad you did.” We took her advice and passed :).

So yeah, I don’t think anything has changed, although I didn’t visually check.

Man, you’re hitting all the world-renowned jet-set hotspots this summer, aren’t you? First Birmingham, Alabama, and now Egypt.

You should just stop traveling now; no way you’re going to top seeing those two destinations.

Did that camel spit at any time?

I basically live a really lavish, privileged life ;).

Not that I noticed, but I was also a decent distance back, just zoomed in.

I chuckled at the picture of you (I assume that’s you) “pushing” the pyramid.

Tis me. The tour guide insisted everyone do it, so who am I to decline?

Oh… that kind of ruins it. I thought it was your idea. :stuck_out_tongue:

Too cool lady… enjoyed the pics…

Your photo 586 shows the road going to the back side of the pyramids. That’s where my driver had a head-on collision with a guy on a camel. It was quite a scene, with the driver and the camel jockey screaming and slapping at each other, while the camel squalled its outrage. It ended up with my $10 changing hands and everyone was mollified.

You were wise not to climb up inside of Cheops. After you reach the top, you realize that you have to come back down, much of it on your butt, in the heat and the dust and the human funk of several millennia.

Did you make it to the Khan al Khalili (huge shopping bazaar, for those who don’t know)?