Sony HDMI corrupted?

In November 2012 I bought a Sony KDL46EX645. Last night I was getting no signal. Comcast came out (I needed a new cable modem anyway) and the installer said she got an error (while I was out of the room) saying something like 'HDMI corrupted. Use Y0 [something something – basically, use composite input). She switched from HDMI2, to which the cable box was connected, to HDMI3. I now have TV via HDMI again.

Questions: How could HDMI2 have become corrupted? How can it be fixed?

Don’t know if this helps at all, but I have a similar TV (not that exact model, but similar) and remember getting a somewhat similar message – don’t recall the exact message, but it was a reference to an HDMI error followed by – IIRC – a “no signal” screen. It occurred sporadically about once a week or once every few weeks.

The most important finding was that, in my case at least, the problem was a cheap substandard HDMI cable. I ordered a few new ones in various lengths from Monoprice, which has a reputation for being inexpensive but excellent quality, and never had the problem again. YMMV.

The other odd thing I recall is that when the problem happened, it left the HDMI port in some weird state that actually required unplugging the TV (not just turning it off) to reset.

Yes, I had a teal-blue screen with a black box in the lower-right corner that said ‘No signal’ and some other stuff.

I’ve heard that sometimes HDMI cables ‘just go bad’. I don’t know how that’s possible, but it’s what I was told (or read) a couple of years ago. I have a spare HDMI cable in a bag in the box under the TV. Maybe I’ll give that a try (with unplugging the TV).

Had a similar problem with my Sony TV. It was not the cables. It was that the communication between the TV and the cable box was out of sync. Powering cycling the cable box and the TV fixed the problem.

The cable box/DVR has been unplugged two or three time. I’ll try unplugging the TV and moving the HDMI cable back from HDMI3 to HDMI2. But not right now. Still have a mountain of data to work on.

The critical issue was unplugging the Sony TV for me.

I’m curious. Aren’t you a pilot? What kind of number crunching do they make you do?

Yes, I have Private Pilot certificates for Airplane - Single Engine Land and Rotorcraft - Helicopter.

Nothing to do with my job, though. FWIW, I work with business credit (not consumer credit) data.

If you’re wondering about the math needed for flying, not much. Basic algebra. For example, you’re planning to fly at 120 knots to a destination 300 nautical miles away. There is no wind. You’re planning to climb from sea level to 9,500 feet at 76 knots, and let’s say you average 500 feet per minute. You’re running wide-open, so you’re planning on burning 10 gallons of fuel per hour and you you have 38 gallons of usable fuel. How long will it take you to reach your destination? How much fuel will you burn? You figure out that it will take about 20 minutes to climb to your altitude (9,500 feet / 500 fpm). If you’re flying ⅓ hour at 76 kts., then you’ll go about 25 miles (D=RT). Then you figure out that you have 275 miles to go (300 - 25), and that at 120 kts. it will take you 2.3 hours (T=D/R). Add the .33 hours for the climb and you have about 2 hours and 40 minutes to get from Point A to Point B, and you’ll have burned about 27 gallons of fuel. But let’s say you’ll have a crosswind/headwind 35º off the nose at 15 knots. You use your electronic or manual E6B flight computer to find out your actual speed and course correction angle.

A couple of notes: I suck at math. The paragraph above was off-the-cuff, and I didn’t check my math. If I were actually flying, I’d be more careful. Also, I’m not all that concerned with significant figures. My ‘fudge factors’ tend toward the conservative. If you plan to take longer to get there and to burn more fuel than you really do, I think you’re safer than doing it the other way round. Anyway, you need to know how to add and subtract, and use RT=D. You don’t need to know trigonometry. Your E6B will do that for you.

HDMI is a big bag of suck. because the MPAA doesn’t want you filthy pirates stealing their content, the HDMI stream has to be encrypted. So what that means is that when you power up an HDMI sender (like a cable box) and and HDMI receiver (your TV,) they have to exchange encryption keys (a process called “handshaking.”) If the handshake fails, you’ll get no picture.

so, short version- there might have been a handshake failure while the Crimecast tech was setting things up. Given the HDMI inputs all go to the same chip, if you plug it back in to HDMI2 it might work.