Dopers who have been to the Spoleto festival in Charleston, SC, any tips? I’m particularly interested in logistics like lodging, parking, shuttles, etc. Also affordable non-crowded places to eat. I’ve been to Charleston once before for a long weekend, so I’m not completely unfamiliar with it, but wouldn’t say I know the city by any means.
I can’t offer any help with Spoleto specifics, but Left Hand of Dorkness and I just spent a long weekend there ourselves, so I can give some general recommendations.
Southend Brewery on East Bay Street has tasty grub (including damn fine she-crab soup) and good custom-brewed beer. It wasn’t too expensive or crowded, but I imagine it will get much busier during Spoleto. Gaulart & Maliclet (also called Fast and French) on 98 Broad Street was terrific. They have a small menu of mostly soups, salads, and sandwiches, but everything was fresh and delicious. Great for a quick lunch. The lunch special includes a glass of the house wine.
We did the Slavery & Freedom Walk with Charleston Original Walking Tours, which focuses on slavery and African American life in and around Charleston in the 18th and 19th century. It was absolutely fascinating, and I highly recommend it.
Have fun!
Harriett,
For transportation, there’s the DASH (downtown area shuttle) bus line. They’re the ones that look like trolley cars. The depot is at the visitor’s center, where you can pick up tickets listed in the link. The 3-day tickets are a great deal if you’re going to be there more than a day. Just get on and flash the ticket. DASH covers the downtown area well (routes 210-212). They even have route maps you can download to your iPod! If you’re not staying downtown and have to park, park at the visitor’s center. Being the center of the bus lines, it’ll be convenient not having to worry about getting on the right bus to get back to your car.
You’ll find a wide variety of food, from downhome (i.e. greasy) through snooty (i.e. snotty). Until recently, Charleston was one of the few cities in America that spend fewer than 50% of it’s restaurant meal dollars at fast food restaurants. It may still be true but I haven’t seen that survey for a few years. Damn, I really need to brush up on the food scene. I’ll be taking my mother out for Mother’s Day and just realized I have no idea where to go. So many places, so little time. But at Spoleto time, unless you’re getting off the peninsula or eating early or late in the meal period, you’re stuck with crowds. I guess you could stop by Harris Teeter on East Bay Street and pick up picnic supplies.
Tristan at 55 Market Street was a surprise. About $15 for lunch, including salad, entree, and dessert. This stuff wasn’t taken off the food service truck and fried up, that’s for sure. The portions weren’t large, but they didn’t need to be. The food was outstanding. Heck, they even matched the napkin to the patron’s clothing. Be sure to see the sinks in the bathroom. I haven’t been to Sermet’s Corner in ages, but it was quite good. The service is sometimes spotty, but the Mediterranean food is usually worth the wait. For a good view but not particularly inspired food, try the restaurant atop of the Holiday Inn Riverview. The food is pretty ordinary, but the view of the marshes and city can be great. It’s just over the Ashley River bridges.
For lodging, if you don’t have it yet, you’ll either pay major bux or will be in the Masters Economy Inn in North Charleston. Really. Charleston is a major tourist area and has high occupancy rates almost year round. Special events just fill up the city’s hotels faster. Don’t be afraid to look further afield than Charleston; include James Island, North Charleston, and even Summerville in your lodgings search. It may be a drive into the city, but you may find something affordable.
Other things to do. Hmm. The horse-drawn carriage rides are enjoyable and you can learn all kinds of bu****it about the city, too. Consider the narratives as entertainment, not historical accuracy. Tell me if they tell you about “Charleston Green.” I liked just riding the DASH 211, looking at the city. Get off at the Battery and walk around. It should be beautiful this time of year. Look over or through the fences to see the gardens next to the houses. Please, please don’t tresspass or pick the flowers. That’s a major peeve of those who live in the area. May as well look at the ironwork of the fences and gates, too. They didn’t get 'em at Home Depot.
Keep walking toward the east (East Bay Street) or hop a DASH (route 212 from the depot) to the Waterfront Park. Take your shoes off and walk in the pineapple fountain, sit and relax on a bench, picnic in the grass (food from Harris Teeter or carried out of nearby restaurants), whatever. There’s lots to do and no money involved. Really. Even the binoculars at the end of the pier are free!
I’ll leave the rest to the visitor’s center when you arrive. They’re friendly and can frequently make reservations on the spot for you. There’s also maps and brochures all over the center, too, if you want to do it yourself.
I hope you have a good time. Are you flying or driving in?
Thanks! If we go we’ll be driving. The Spry Spouse needs a little convincing to do that much culture. Although I think he’d really enjoy the play Major Bang.
The choice between expensive and crappy/distant lodging is sort of a challenge, too. I just got the idea that this would be a good year to go a few days ago. Is it reasonable to expect that there will be parking spaces available at the Visitor’s Center during Spoleto, or will that be chancy?
I think there’d be parking, but get there early in the morning. There’s a bunch of parking garages in town. You thought you didn’t see them on your last visit, but they hide 'em in plain sight by making them look like, well, not garages. They’ve won awards for that. Just another option.
When you’re checking for hotels, ask if they have shuttles into the city. I know, in the past, some of them far from the city did.
Oh, and be sure to check out Piccolo Spoleto events. Frequently free or very cheap and often offbeat. Hubby may not object to being dragged to something if there’s not a big investment involved.
PS: If I were you, I’d start looking for hotels right now. People from all over the world will be in Charleston for this. They’ve already got all the good rooms. I remember seeing Spoleto articles in German newspapers when I lived in there. I’d thought that “internationally known event” was just a marketing exaggeration tossed into the brochures. Obviously not.