My son who is 23 is looking into archery . He will take lessons. What kind of gear is needed to start and what is the price range? This is for target shooting, not hunting.
Check out references to Ben Pearson. He was and appears to be still an expert archer and seller of archery stuff.
I asked they move this thread to IMHO, put it here by accident
BTW Pearson died in 1971 but his archery business closed just last month.
I bought an cheap starter 20-25 lb bow on Amazon & arrows for it.
I built a ground quiver from a heavy cardboard tube though a piece of 4" PVC pipe works well also. Some wood to make a stand for it. Easy to construct and cheap.
I built a target stand out of 2"x 3", a simple 3 point frame.
Found a replacement netting for a kids trampoline to use as the safety backdrop. Strung that between a tree and a long pole that went into the ground into a 2" piece of PVC.
The target I found cheap at Dick’s Sporting Goods. I think it was only $40.
I had first built one out of a large cardboard box a flat screen TV came in and a lot of Styrofoam.
All of this was pretty cheap as much was DIY and the rest was bargain hunting.
I could bring up the details if you’re interested.
As to training, see if your local park system offers any. Many of them offer such lessons and they’re pretty cheap.
I would start by asking whoever is giving the instruction. I prefer to start people with a medium weight full-curve recurve and a vane rest but these days a lot of teachers feel better with compounds right from the start; a little easier to find and start with. But at the least you will need to find out what his draw length is and match it from there. In other words you need more information and the teacher may be the best place to start.
Price? Say start at $60 and head for the sky from there. Quiver is no biggie; a cardboard box works. But don’t skimp on the finger tabs and arm guard. Depending on the time and effort he puts in an entry level bow will be just that ----- and the Hoyt take-down with three sets of limbs, sites, releases and counterweights can be in a couple years.
(I shot an early Golden Eagle in competition so I have a weakness for the Crossman Elkhorn compound for beginners who want compounds but that is just me.)
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Off to IMHO (from MPSIMS)
I bought a bunch of my gear online from Lancaster Archery. I’d recommend a basic take down recurve set rather than a compound bow to get the basics down first. Is he looking at hunting eventually or strictly target shooting? you’d be looking at about $250 for a bow, glove,12 arrows and a basic quiver and carrying bag. If he carries on then he can get stronger limbs and better arrows, etc.
I do not recommend a 25 lb bow. If he’s 23 and of normal strength, he’ll grow out of that quickly. Suggest a 40 or 50 lb bow. Most places like Cabela’s or Bass will have a small range where he can try it out. I’d suggest a take-down recurve bow. This allows you to break the bow down into smaller parts for easier transport. Recurves are cheaper than compounds in general, and are also better for learning proper technique (in my opinion). Compounds are good for hunting as they can put out more power for taking down animals and you can hold your draw for almost forever, but in my opinion lead to bad technique for target shooting.“Simpler” longbows are more challenging to shoot and don’t "feel"right. They feel kind of dull and flat when you shoot. You might want to move to one in the future for a change of pace, but learn with a recurve.
Also, recurves should be unstrung every time you use them, so you’ll need a bow stringer. I’d also suggest an archery glove for his shooting hand. Lots of people get arm guards and chest guards, but if you’re a guy with a normal chest, i.e. no man titties, you don’t need a chest guard or an arm guard as long as you learn and use proper shooting technique. Learn to shoot by eye before you buy a sight. Without solid repeatable technique, sights are not really accurate.
Thanks for the advice. No hunting at all , just target shooting. I might join him in lessons ,I am 50 and normal strength. Would a 40 lb bow be OK for me?
I wouldn’t rule out 50 or 25 for that matter but this is where archery gets to be like discussions of various Protestant denominational differences; I like 35#. Its heavy enough to be a little more forgiving of conditions but light enough to allow you to adjust and perfect technique. Back when I did PSAA and some FITA people won a lot, even the clout, with bows as light as 28# actual but ------ sometimes the same people could be a little spotty. Same with those pulling 50 and up. But again, we’re talking a starting place and I would say something more 35-ish or 40.
this should help starter archery set - Bing Search
Amazing! I never thought of that!!
Bijou, is there an archery lane or as noted above a Cabela’s or Bass Pro (they normally have an area where you can test a bow before buying)? Depending on your strength a 40# bow might be a bit to strong for you but they only way to know that is to draw a few and see. Bows are dependent not only on the draw weight but also your draw length (how far you pull the arrow back) as well as your height to some degree (my 66 inch recurve (tip to tip) isn’t going to be handled well by someone whose 5 ft tall for example.) Archery is also almost as bad as audiophiles for having all kinds of gear to supposedly make you the ultimate Robin Hood. Ignore most of them and learn proper form and shooting habits first. There is a form called instinctive shooting that tries to eliminate all the gew gaws and concentrate on the basics. It may be a good place to start.
To reiterate, look at take down recurves vice longbows and compounds for the reasons stated above, turner and kopek’s advice is spot on.
Bass and Cabelas here don’t have archery lanes and I won’t buy from anyone who donates to the NRA anyway. We have 2 local archery places that sell equipment and offer classes.
Call Lancaster Archery, in Pennsylvania. They can put together a great kit for your son, based on price and desire.
I have a kickass takedown recurve, but he does not have to go as high-end as I did (I needed it for competition).
50# is way too much draw weight to learn proper shooting technique with a recurve, unless the beginner is an exceptionally fit guy. 35# is much closer to reality, or what kopek said.
Link in my earlier post…
had a lesson today. Fun but hard. Taking 4 more classes.
What did you end up getting or did you start with some loaner gear?
You’re missing the important question: recurve or compound (or traditional etc.)
Samick Sage is a good recurve for not expensive. Compound bows are being made now that range from something like 5 to 70 pounds so he can adjust it usually with an Allen key as he gets stronger. All the brands sold at Cabela’s etc. are fine (Bear, Diamond, PSE make some affordable ones), just don’t get some Chinese knockoff on eBay.
Also he should determine his dominant eye for handedness.