So I need to remove my sink so I can do some remodeling work. In doing so, I discovered that my shut-off valves are in horrendous condition, and just need to be replaced. I have 3/8" pipe coming from the basement, which went into a 1/2" bushing, into the shut-off valve. For the hot water, the bushing would not budge, nor would the shut off valve - regardless of how much pressure I put on my wrench.
So I hacked it off at the base of the pipe<->bushing connection. Yeah…
So apparently pipes are tapered at the end, and my shut-off valve won’t fit onto it. The cold side went on just fine with no problems whatsoever, and these pipes are (seemingly) identical. What do I need to do to get this shut-off valve on so I can turn my water back on? Is there a way to taper the pipe?
Maybe the 4 blind men and the elephant. The part of the elephant I am feeling feels like old galvanized pipe. Their threads do indeed taper. The part left after cutting the bushing off will be larger in diameter. The easiest thing would be to cut the thread back farther with a pipe die. They are expensive especiallyif you have to buy a whole set to get the handle you need to turn the die. You may lack room to turn it too. There are some work arounds. One would be the Shark Bite. The are new and expensive but very easy to use, you just slip them on. You would want black or galvanized to male NPT. Note, plumbers go by ID. Modern 1/2’’ pipe is a little over 1/2’’ ID and a little over 3/4’’ OD.
The pipe cutter in the link will leave yust enough taper on the end of the pipe to easily slip a sweat fitting over a copper pipe or start a pipe die on an iron pipe.
Another technique would be to unscrew the length of pipe you cut off and replace it with a new one. Do some hammering on it and heat it if you can. Penetrating oil helps if you can get it back to the joint.
Nope. As the URL states - that’s a pipe cutter. I don’t need my pipe cut. I need it threaded and tapered.
Someone I ran into recommended Shark Bite as well. Seems I have my measurements mixed up, because the 1/2" OD pipe doesn’t work with the 1/2" Shark Bite. It’s close, but not close enough. I’ll have to head back to the hardware store tomorrow morning.
Ah - here’s the problem. This here is a chrome-plated brass pipe, which Shark Bite doesn’t work on (too thick). Easiest solution seems to be removing the entire pipe (it’s just six inches, but involved a bit of demolition to my floor), and replacing it. Can’t find chrome-plated brass at the local Ace, so galvanized should work, right?
I second the idea of removing the whole pipe and installing a new piece. Vice Grip the pipe off and pop a new one in and you’re back in business. Otherwise you would need a tapered die meant to cut the same thread back in and the die is many times more expensive and harder to use in a tight place than replacing the pipe.
I fully agree. There were some developments over 30 years ago bringing the price of ball valves down to about that of gate valves. I know of no reason other than ‘‘it always has been done that way’’ to install a gate valve. Yet, the stores are full of them. Maybe a globe valve in a tight place where you must make an angle.
Flanged butterfly valves seem to be better for over 2’’.