Tell me about cooking on induction stovetops

Oh, no, it is MUCH faster on induction. Turn the heat up or down and the response is virtually instant.

The only downsides are needing (some) new cookware (if a magnet sticks to it, it’ll work) and all the heat is on the base of the pan, none on the sides as you get when gas is turned up.

The upsides are a healthier kitchen environment - gas combustion products are not good for you! - less danger of burning yourself on the gas itself or the hot pans, and lower GHG emissions.

As to the OP’s confusion between glass-top element and induction stoves, exactly that happened to me. I went onto an online store to buy a recommended Bosch induction stove, and somehow after clicking around a bit I ended up on an element stove that looked almost exactly the same. Cost me about $3k to remedy that mistake! Interestingly I could not on-sell the element stove for any money, even down to $800. I ended up giving it away to a charity.

Upon hearing the comments, I may have mistaken a glass-top electric stove for being induction. My bad! At least I have some new cookware to show for it and it’ll still be as easy to clean up as if it were induction.

I’ll see myself out now. Feel free to keep the thread going.

If you want to give induction a try, and don’t need too many pots for your typical meal, you may be able to use an induction hot plate that would allow you to heat things up quickly. Cost about $50-200 for a single “burner” model.

Ooooh, I may do that. It’ll be nice to have the option, since there are some things you just can’t get right on an electric stovetop and the outdoor gas grills aren’t always going to be available depending on the weather.

That’s what I have. I use it at least once a week in conjunction with my gas stove. Just used it tonight to sauté onions and bell peppers.

Too bad the OP doesn’t actually have an induction stove. I got one last year, and I highly recommend them.

I replaced my old gas stove when I was made aware in recent years just how bad the unvented exhaust fumes were for my health and my asthma.

I had to get an electrician put in a new 240V 50-amp outlet and dedicated circuit because these suckers draw a lot of power. But they are also very efficient. I can bring a large pot of water to boil in about 90 seconds on the power boost setting (which is one click past 10 :wink:). In addition, the change in power when you adjust the knob is instant. Even faster than gas, if you can believe it.

Besides the cost to install it, the other downside is that I had to replace most of my pots and pans. Turns out my old ones were Anolon aluminum-clad cookware without enough ferromagnetic material in them.

Is this true for induction? I can see it for gas or convectional electric stoves. But, I think induction is faster and doesn’t heat the house like the others.

Excuse me with a mild (but important) diversion. :face_with_monocle:
I remember when I first moved into my own place that several things needed looking after:

  • buying groceries
  • address for deliveries
  • cleaning
  • laundry
  • spare key
  • plumbing + electrical support (check with your landlord)

Enjoy your freedom! :sunglasses:

If, say, your microwave can do 1000 watts, but your induction stove can supply 2 or 3 kilowatts, you can do the math.

Since you’ve already got new cookware, this may not matter as much, but just to reinforce @LSLGuy’s post about scratching the surface: NO CAST IRON. It’s probably called out specifically in the manual.

I had the scary experience of witnessing someone drop a small casserole dish, itself scalding hot, from the microwave into a pot of boiling pasta water on the range below. It made a huge noise and big splash & mess but, somehow, nobody got hurt.

I didn’t read the whole thread, but I concur that this is just a regular glass top stove. My apartment at The Home has one, too. I would rather have gas, but you can’t have open gas flames in a building that serves old people.

Since your microwave is right above the stove, get yourself one of these silicon mats to cover the glass top stove. It will not only protect it from things being dropped, but it will give you an extra work surface.

MONTPRO Silicone Stove Mat, 28 x… Amazon.com: MONTPRO Silicone Stove Mat, 28 x 20 inch StoveTop Cover Protector, Extra Large Dish Drying Mat for Kitchen, Glass Top Electric Stove Cooktop Cover, Heat Resistant Mat(Black) : Appliances

There are a bunch of different ones available on Amazon.

I cook almost exclusively with cast iron (other than my stainless steel stock pots) on my glass-top stove.

Yeah, it’s fine as long as you’re careful. Just lift and place rather than quickly and casually half-drag pots and pans about. I use mostly stainless steel and don’t bother with cast iron because I’m lazy about clean-up/maintenance and at the end of the day they’re not strictly necessary for what I cook. But I do use heavy porcelain-clad iron Dutch ovens on the glass-top without issue.

Hate to break it to you, but smoothtop radiant cooktops are not trivial to clean, because stuff burns onto them. I mean, they’re not horrible, but you’ll want to get cooktop cleaner and the right kind of pads to clean it.

We had radiant until one of the burners died and it was going to cost most of the cost of a new unit to replace. I read about induction and found a Samsung I liked. Alas, my favorite local appliance place was fighting with Samsung, so I found another shop. They came and measured, agreed it would fit, ordered it, came to install it…and the installer looked at my existing setup and said, “That’s a downdraft.” “Right.” “New one isn’t a downdraft.” “Right, downdraft is useless, I don’t care.” (The existing downdraft WAS useless: if a pot was steaming and the fan was on high, the steam wouldn’t even twitch toward the vent.) “Code requires downdraft, I can’t install this.”

So they took it back and refunded my money. I bought an Avantco single burner and used that, liked it.

A couple of years later I was at my favorite appliance store and they had Samsung again, and I told the sales guy my sad story. “That’s not true!” he told me. “It’s only true for gas!” So I finally got my new cooktop, and like it quite a bit.

There are some design flaws in at least that Samsung:

  1. It has a nifty magnetic knob that you can put on a control instead of having to use the touch panel–only it’s pretty useless, doesn’t really work.
  2. It has an app that lets you see what burners are on, but you can’t turn them off remotely! Not being able to turn them on/adjust them remotely I understand, but OFF would be safe. Dumb.
  3. Like most/all induction cooktops, it has touch controls, which also means that if you drip water on the cooktop, it often shuts off and displays DO, which I take to mean “Dry Off”. I understand why it does this, BUT when it does so, if you’re using the built-in timer, it kills that, too! So you had, say, potatoes boiling, and now you don’t know how much time was left. Dumb.
  4. The beeps it makes when, for example, it goes into DO, are too quiet. Should be adjustable: if I have the oven on, or water running, I may miss that beep, then suddenly wonder why things aren’t sizzling or boiling. It’s an error condition, it should be clearly announced!

Yes, I realize this isn’t a Samsung gripe forum. But I figured anyone considering induction might want to know about issues like this. I love the induction, don’t get me wrong; I just wish they’d thought this through better. Maybe other brands have done so.

A final note: as others have said, it does change how you cook to some extent. Simplest example is sautéing something, e.g., onions. With a radiant cooktop, you put the pan on the burner, turn it on, throw in the butter/oil, and cut up your onion, tossing it in as you go.

With induction, the butter will burn before you get the onion chopped, so you need to sequence differently. Takes a few tries to get the hang of it.

I should have mentioned that my experience was several years old, on an already old unit. That manual clearly stated the no cast iron warning. Stands to reason, that would be an area of progress.

I would not choose a glass-topped stove if I had a choice. BUT the thing is, when you move into an apartment and THAT’S the stove you now have to live with, you live with it. Those products are no big deal and easy to come by. This is not a crisis.

I have the conventional type of electric stove with coil burners and space below them. Spills land on the coils, on the burner pans and the space below the stovetop. So periodically the whole thing has to be scrubbed, including lifting the stovetop and cleaning the space below. A glass-top stove where only one surface needs to be cleaned sounds like an improvement.

Oh, it definitely is.

The goop in @Thelma’s cite is available at pretty much any grocery store for ~$5; you don’ need no steenkin’ $25 cleaning kit.

It’s just a fine polish like you’d use on a car back in the day. Any plastic scrubby thing works fine to apply it. Like the softest Scotchbrites; the very hardest scratchiest Scotchbrites can scratch the glass. I usually just use paper towels to buff the stuff and that’s plenty good enough.

Unlike a coil stove, if you do get a boilover & stuff is sitting there boiling and baking itself onto the surface, an immediate wipe with a wet rag or towel while wearing a protective mitt pays huge dividends. One or two timely swipes can remove 80-90% of the goop before it cooks onto the glass. Much easier.

I know. It’s just easy to post an Amazon link for reference.