Tell me about life in Florida

No, I’m not retiring. My fiancee and I just learned that the Air Force is assigning me to Patrick AFB–basically, we’ll be living at Cape Canaveral. We’re thrilled beyond belief. Air Force bases, as we understand them, are relatively cushy; getting one in Florida made our year.

Having said that, I know extremely little about Florida other than 1) it’s really warm and 2) it’s got a lot of old folks. We may not live on base; more than likely, we’ll be somewhere between Cocoa Beach (where the base is) and Orlando (where Mickey is…I mean, where my fiancee will probably be transferring to a new law school). I don’t know a lot about the surrounding communities, the local customs, the foods, how much speeding I can get away with on a highway, whether or not I should feed a stray gator I find on my porch, how much bug spray we should buy, etc. The bulk of my FL experience comes from visiting my grandparents as a kid, and watching the “Spring Break” episode of The Simpsons.

I’m sure there’s a number of Florida Dopers out there. My fiancee and I would appreciate an insight as to what we’re in for.

We were stationed there (Navy-Pensacola) a number of years back. I didn’t like it, but then I had three young children and the schools sucked. I didn’t like the 24/7 heat and humidity in the summer; the sand in everything; more bugs than you ever knew existed; the roaches EVERYwhere; and the poor black areas which shocked me, a northerner (CA) who had never really seen overt racism. Maybe that’s changed, but I doubt it. We got sun poisoning the first time out on the beaches because we had no idea how strong the sun would be. So be careful. We went on a tour of the everglades and one guy complained that the tour wasn’t very long. The bus driver said “don’t worry. when it’s over you will be begging me to get back on the bus (with the AC)” and boy was he right. If they tell you that a hurricane is going to hit, leave; I evaculated with Andrew from Fort Lauderdale and was the first one out of the hotel (while the music was playing in the ballroom) and got the last available motel room in Ocala. I watched millions evacuate the Keys on TV. But, a place is what you make it. Just don’t believe the travel posters.

That whole area, the “Space Coast,” is pretty nice. You’ll get good weather most of the year–always warm, usually hot, but not too terribly humid because you’re by the ocean. You’ll get a ton of rain in the summers, though. Nice beaches, too. The cities you’ll be near are Melbourne, Cocoa, Palm Bay, Rockledge, Titusville–all moderate-sized to small towns, but you should still have your usual array of restaurants, malls, movie theaters, and so on. I doubt you’ll get gators on your porch, but be prepared for mosquitos!

You’re about an hour from Orlando (depending on traffic), and 3-4 hours from Miami, where I live. South Florida (which I think of as West Palm Beach south to Miami) has some unique qualities, but where you’re going to be is more like any calm coastal community in America, with only the slightest Southern flavor. Like I said, it’ll be quiet to the point of sleepy, without much youth culture. I don’t know how old you and your fiancee are or what you like to do, but you may find yourselves traveling to Orlando every now and then when you get leave.

I lived in Palm Bay (twin city of Melbourne) for 6 months, and I agree that the Space Coast can be a rather sleepy place, but I never really got the oppressive “small town” vibe, since it’s not so much individual communities as one big coastal “small town”.

Of the three places I’ve lived in Florida (Orlando, Melbourne, Sarasota,) I like the East Coast the best. I don’t even surf or fish, the 2 big things to do there, and I still liked the laid-back vibe. But then again I don’t really go out at night a lot, not even to the movies or mall: to do anything beyond that, or surf or fish, I would agree you might head toward orlando, which is only an hour or less away.

w/r/t your specific questions, I haven’t seen a lot of old folks on the East Coast. Certainly not a lot compared to he West Coast.

foods? can’t help you there except to say that if you ever get to Indialantic (i.e. Melbourne beachside,) try a slice of New York Style Pizza from Bizarro’s. Best. Pizza. Ever.

Speeding? The cars seem to go slower in Florida relative to the limit than up North. But I wouldn’t know what speed is “safe”, as I have never gotten a speeding ticket (I usually go between the limit and 7 mph over depending on what other traffic is doing.)

Buy stock in a bug spray company, Off! is your friend.

Do NOT feed the gators. Ever.

“but not too terribly humid because you’re by the ocean.”
::snort::
Um, yeah, right. You can expect 80% humidity most of the time.

You’ll get front row seats (relatively) for shuttle launches, which is an excessively cool event to witnes. I went to Cocoa for the Launch that John Glenn went up in and it’s still one of the best things I’ve ever done. Of course I’m a space fanatic, so YMMV.

Food: hope you like seafood. There’s plenty of it, not cheap but FRESH. Yum. There’s also tons of fresh fruit around. You might even luck out and find a place to live with a citrus tree or two on your property. Mmmm. Warm Grapefruit.

Probably not a lot to do for young people. There’s some clubs and some decent shopping, but that part of Florida is all about the nature. Cape Canaveral is a giant nature preserve – keep your eyes peeled for Bald Eagles. They’re all over the place down there. There’s always the beach, if you like that, but always use sunscreen. Minimum SPF 15 always. Invest in some really good polarized sunglasses as well. You’ll even wear them in winter.

Weather: It does get cold there in winter, sometimes, but it’s not too bad, especially if you’re coming from a northern climate. Your first winter will not even seem like “cold” until you get more acclimatized. (Now that I’ve lived in Florida for 10 years, 65 degrees feels cold to me. In Ohio, I used to wear shorts when it was 65 outside. Now I put on a sweater and turn on the heat!)

You will not need a winter coat, gloves, hats or boots. You can throw your snow/ice scraper away. Or keep it as a souvenir from your northern days.

Hurricane season is June 1 - November 30. Watch the Weather Channel during those months and if anything bigger than a Category 2 comes your way, get out of dodge. If you’re told to evacuate… do it.

Speeding: On the freeways, the speed limit is generally 70. I tend to drive around 80MPH and have never gotten a speeding ticket on the freeway. Most people under 65 tend to drive well over the speed limit. In town speed limits are sort of more like a suggestion than an enforced law.

As for living, stick to Cocoa Beach/Melbourne areas and avoid The Mouse’s neighborhood. You’ll see why once you wander over to Orlando once or twice.

And no matter what parts of my advice you choose to follow or ignore, please try to do one thing: rent Sunshine State. Great movie, and it really does show you how some Floridians live. The rich ones and the not-so-rich ones.

Enjoy. I’m a bit jealous. That’s a wonderful part of the state to be in.

[ol]
[li]I~N~S~E~C~T~S!!![/li][li]Keep everything in sealed glass containers. See post #1.[/li][li]Avoid the beach at night as if your life depended on it. It does.[/li][li]Lot’s o’ touristy stuff to do.[/li][li]Eisner has ruined the Disney parks. Yet.[/li][li]Visit the Space Museum & take the tours at Kennedy. I believe there’s a Serviceman’s discount for the tours, & the Museum is free.[/li][li]Great shopping.[/li][li]If you have ever wanted to go snorkling, now is the time.[/li][/ol]

Ah, Ocala - hurricane shelter for the state of Florida. :smiley:
I’ve not much to add, actually - except that you’ll not believe how big roaches can get! Do you have any small pets?
Keep a clean kitchen, and keep food sealed in plastic or glass, and they won’t be a huge problem - but if the base doesn’t have a pest service, you may want to consider retaining one anyway - they will get in, no matter how clean you are.
Lessee, what else…that area won’t be bad for traffic, I don’t think. Humidity will be higher than you’re used too, and the summers downright nasty - 90% humidity and 90° F make a bad combination. Your oceanside location will ease that some, though. Afternoon thunderstorms will become a part of your routine - downpours that no windshield wiper can keep up with, really. Air conditioning isn’t a necessity, but I wouldn’t want to live without it.
Winters get cool - in fact, there was a cold snap last week where it dipped below freezing here for a couple of days. Highs in the 60s, lows in the 40s is what you can expect in the winter, though.
Other stuff as I think of it…

My family used to have some friends who lived on Merritt Island, which is right next to Cocoa Beach. It’s nice and fairly calm, from what I remember of the visits. I’m originally from South Florida (halfway between West Palm Beach and Miami), and personally wouldn’t recommend going into a good chunk of Palm Beach county due to the people who live in some of the areas. (Snotty rich people who treat you like you’re lower than scum are not my idea of fun to socialize with.) Winter in Central Florida is nice, but doesn’t really get very close to “cold” most of the time. I’m living in Tallahassee right now, and we’re generally within 10-20 degrees of Orlando temperature-wise. Orlando area is a little crazy for non-tourists, IMO… well, that’s at least the impression I’ve goten in the past couple of times I’ve been there in the past few months. Lots of freeways, tourist attractions and jacked-up prices… but UCF is only about 1/2 an hour to an hour away from most places in Orlando.
I’ll also second the comments about the roaches. If you’re afraid of them in any way, Florida is not the state for you. (You wouldn’t believe the roach problems I had in my first year dorm. Those were some BRAVE little bastiges…)

Weather:
Fall is November and early December giving way to winter in late December - February. Spring starts late February, and clears out for summer to arrive in May. From May to September, humidity + temperature usually add up to at least 180. Get used to 95 degrees and 95% humidity. Often, I’ll wake up to an 80 degree morning by 7:30 or so, and it’s so humid that it’s foggy at that temperature. You get accustomed to it, and you start feeling relief when it drops into the high 80s. Summer time, it rains a lot. And lately, it’s never a cooling rain that clears the air of the humidity – it tends to fall on the asphalt and steam back up into the air. Immediately post-rain it feels more humid than it did before the rain.

BTW, this climate info is for my area, Tampa Bay. It’s south of Canaveral, on the opposite coast. Canaveral should be less severe. Those who are saying that the coastal effect will help are right. After you get here, you’ll see on the weather reports that inland (hi galen!) is always worse.

Pest Control:
As the others have said, keep everything sealed all the time. Things like flour and sugar, we keep in the fridge to help keep it safe. You’ll still get roaches (nice ones too – 3 inches or so long, wings, the works) no matter what, but this will limit them a lot. Get used to mosquitos too. Do not permit any water to stand in your yard ever. No bird baths, no water bowls, nothing. Also, as the others have said, never feed the wildlife. Alligators who are fed by people end up eventually attacking people.

Good things:
No state income tax. Low sales tax – 6% state rate and 1% local option. Most services are untaxed, but there’s a debate on about that. Low cost of living. Property taxes can be pretty high, but more than offset by the other, cheaper stuff. If you like beach towns, you’ll love living where you’re going.

When you do get here, I suggest you take your vacations in-state at first. Florida is an incredibly diverse place, from the Keys to the Big Bend to the Panhandle, and I think everyone who lives here should see it for themselves. And beware – after too long here, it’s nearly impossible to leave. The state really does have a lot to recommend it.

Thanks for the comments, all (keep 'em coming!). If it helps on things to do, I’m 25 and my fiancee is 24. She’s going to be finishing her third year of law school next year; we’re planning to transfer her to Barry, a newly-accredited school in Orlando. I realize there’s better schools in-state, but Barry is the closest (1.25 hrs away) whereas the next best schools are more like 3 hours away. Plus, they have a course in Space Law, which has me madly jealous.

One question that’s popped into my head: is it advisable to change my state residency to Floridian? I’m currently a Pennsylvanian, and kept that residency while I was attending law school in Michigan for 3 years. I ask if it’s worth it–I’ve been advised that the Air Force will be moving us at least once in our 4-year commitment to them. Like, are there any in-state residency perks?

How’s Clearwater? My fiancee and I are both baseball nuts, and I’d love to see the Phillies in spring training (although I realize they test the benchwarmers most of the time).

And for the king of obscure questions, does anyone know if I can buy a decent Philly cheesesteak in that part of the state? I’m sorry, but it’s obnoxious (and insulting) to have to buy something that labels itself as a “cheesesteak” anywhere outside the greater Philadelphia area. However, you do occasionally find a transplanted Philadelphian who’s set up shop.

[QUOTE]
*Originally posted by Bosda Di’Chi of Tricor *
**
[li]Eisner has ruined the Disney parks. Yet.**[/li][/QUOTE]

Did you mean “hasn’t”? I hope so, because otherwise I disagree wholeheartedly (note: I’m not defending Eisner).

Cheaper admission and cheaper year-round Disney tickets; fewer “How long’s your stay?” questions every time you show your ID. Nothing much, really – We’re very accustomed to out-of-state people.

Clearwater? Meh, although the stadium the Phillies play in is nice. Clearwater Beach is really, really nice, as are nearby Honeymoon and Caladesi Islands. I live between Clearwater and St Petersburg, and of all the places in FL I’ve been, this is my favorite. It is the most densely populated county of the state, but it’s less urban than Miami or Jacksonville. Decent roadways, good cultural activities (an orchestra; a ballet company; one large and several small theatre groups; lots of museums, including a very thorough museum of Salvador Dalí; lots of arthouse movies), and downtown St Pete is currently undergoing a beautiful renaissance.

On top of that, we have Stetson Law here, as well as the University of South Florida (misnomer: I suppose University of West-Central Florida was too long) and Eckerd College. And an apparently top-ranked airport just across the Bay.

If there’s a good Philly available in Central FL, I haven’t found it yet. On the other hand, I’ve never been to Philly, so maybe they’re supposed to taste bad.

Current (7-year) Florida resident here: lived in Merritt Island/Cocoa when I was in high school, and I’m in Orlando now.

If you’re looking for a place to live between Orlando and Cocoa, you really only have two options: Bithlo and Wedgefield. Now, Wedgefield is basically your run-of-the-mill “few miles past the 'burbs housing development”. Decent people (a bit country), well-built homes, and excellent pricing, since you’re 10 miles from anything except other houses and a Town Star gas station. The other option is Bithlo, which is essentially a giant trailer park. There are some very nice people around there, but there are also plenty who sleep with shotguns under their pillows. (I happen to know this because I was shot at twice in the year or so I delivered pizza in the area). I’m guessing you’re more in the apartment market, and if so, you’ll be restricted to the metro Cocoa (Cocoa Beach/Cocoa/Rockledge/Merritt Island) area or to Orlando, because there are no apartments in between that I know of.

You’ll find much cheaper apartments closer to the base; East Orlando is getting really expensive because the University is growing rapidly.

I’d advise against going to Barry if she can find a school anywhere else, but that’s just me. Try FMU or Nova instead.

Don’t worry about the gators. Your chances of seeing one when you aren’t looking for them are about as high as getting hit by lightning. Come to think of it, the chance of being hit by lightning is actually fairly high around here…

The only in-state residency perk I can think of is a discount on theme park tickets. I don’t know if Barry has different tuition charges for in- and out-of-state students.

Clearwater is a lot further away from the base than I’d be willing to drive; nearly two and a half hours, although I’m guesstimating a little here. If you just mean you want to stop by for a spring training game, go ahead, although there won’t be anything else to see.

The weather around Cocoa is nice; a tiny bit cooler than the west coast, and Orlando, but still sunny and warm.

If there’s anything else you’d like to know, or you need a guide when you get here, ask away.

I have to take exception to that. There are well over 2 million people in the Bay Area. I assure you, there’s something else to see, otherwise the half of us who weren’t born here wouldn’t live here.

ResIpsaLoquitor, you’re asking about my neighborhood. I think you’ll like it here. Others have already addressed the heat, humidity, sun, and insects, so I won’t reiterate those. As has already been stated, the beaches are laid back to the point of being sleepy, but there are places to go in the nearby bigger towns for a little excitement. And Orlando has quite a bit happening if you get too bored. (By Orlando I mean the greater Orlando area, which encompasses several other towns and cities, but it’s all called “Orlando” to the chagrin of those immediately outside of Orlando proper.)

You may want to stay on the base at least until you can scope out all the different areas and find where you’d be most comfortable. There are all sorts of different housing options available. There are several enclaves of retirees, but a good mix of all ages everywhere else. Also the population swells with snowbirds during the winter months and shrinks at the approach of the heat of summer. You will find the locals are friendly to all the military personnel that come to the area. So no worries in that regard.

Patrick is located on the seaside in southern Brevard County. Brevard is a very long county, so the locals divide it into North, Central, and South. As Ludovic said, all of the beach-side communities blend into each other. You can’t tell where one ends and the next one begins. So we refer to them all as “the South Beaches”. It is actually situated on a very long, narrow island. So there is a beach on one side of the base and a river on the other. You may very well see a gator along the river bank. Do not feed them! Do not even approach them. More dangerous than the TV sitcoms would have you think. There are several reports each year of pets and children being attacked, often fatally. Not funny when it really happens.

You asked about speeding. On the expressways and Interstates you can safely go up to 5 miles over the limit. Beyond that is a gamble. I’ve heard many times, but haven’t seen proof, that Florida Law doesn’t allow the police to stop you for less than 5 miles over (on the open highways that is). So take that as a legend. But beyond 5 miles they are willing to write you up, if they see you. That 5 mile allowance doesn’t apply inside the cities and small towns. There you had best take careful note of the posted limit. The South Beaches are notorious for not allowing even 2 miles over. Beware! A few years ago a friend of mine got three speeding tickets in just 10 miles, one right after another, one from each town she passed through. (Slow learner! :slight_smile: )

If I may ask, what law school will your fiancee be attending? I have heard that a new one is coming to Orlando, but I wasn’t aware that they were already open. Perhaps I’m behind on my news. If it’s the one that’s been here awhile, then be careful; they are having accreditation problems.:slight_smile:

The most beautiful place in all Florida is Caladesi Island.
LINK

WONDERFUL ARTICLE & IMAGES ON CALADISI ISLAND

MORE IMAGES

THIS PLACE IS PARADISE, DUDE!

Sadly, it’s Gulf Coast.

But it is the physical embodiment of all your tropical fantasies.

Go there at least once.

The most beautiful place in all Florida is Caladesi Island.
LINK

WONDERFUL ARTICLE & IMAGES ON CALADISI ISLAND

MORE IMAGES

THIS PLACE IS PARADISE, DUDE!

Sadly, it’s Gulf Coast.

But it is the physical embodiment of all your tropical fantasies.

Go there at least once.

Are UFOs still making regular visits to Gulf Breeze?

After all, I’ll be working at/near NASA and my fiancee is an alien…

She’s from Canada. :wink:

Bosda, what do you mean about avoiding the beaches at night?

Bugs: Yeah the mosquitoes, and even more so the noseeums can be a real pain in the butt. Any time I know I am going to be within 10 feet of a grassy area I spray repellant on my legs and shoes (I rarely wear long pants). But those two seem to be seasonal here in the St. Pete area, only really bad in the summer months. The critters I had to get used to were the microscopic ants. Those little buggers are everywhere, so don’t even try to get rid of them, but don’t feed them either, keep things sealed tight. Lots of little lizards running around in the summer too, I hope aren’t spooked by them, they try to run and hide as soon as they see you coming. And of course the roaches, I never did like them, I don’t see too many here, but when I do see one I give him a good spay with my trusty Bioganic (a nifty bug killer made out of plant oils, and it really works).

I don’t know, I think people might emphasize the bug problem in Florida a bit too much. Most people get the impression we live in some kind of Fear Factor episode, it’s really not all that bad. There were bugs in Chicago too.

Driving: Not sure how the drivers are around Melbourne, but around St. Pete they are great (courteous), actually some of the best driving conditions I have ever experienced, and I have been just about everywhere in the US.

Heat: The sun down here is much more intense than up north, especially in the summer. If you could sit out in the sun up north for an hour in the middle of summer and not get burned, cut that time down to about 15 minutes down here. If you are going to be out in the sun for any amount of time, use sunscreen for sure. The sun seems much brighter here too, I wear real dark sunglasses in the summer months. It does get humid in the summer too, it took me a couple summers to get used to that, but it’s not all that bad now. I prefer a couple months of too hot weather to a couple months of too cold weather.

Lots of cool old cars down here too, if you’re into that kind of thing. Keep your eyes open, you will see a cherry classic cruiser just about every day :slight_smile: