Tell Me About Living in Hawaii

I’m actually asking for my sister. Her company will be opening several stores on the islands and she’s put in for a transfer there. She has her store manager’s approval and, with her excellent work record, she could be on the inside track for a supervisor position. She’s nervous, though, about being so far away from family and friends. I think it would be an interesting life experience for her but understand her trepidation too.

She’s also concerned because she’s heard that Hawaii is an expensive place to live. Is it really? What are utility rates like compared to those on the mainland? What about food and gas? Is there still a recession going on over there?

Also, what non-touristy things do you recommend she check out? Tell us about nice, fun artsy places, good inexpensive restaurants, museums, off-the-beaten-tourist-path parks and anything else that comes to mind. It’s a pretty safe bet that she’d wind up in Honolulu or Hilo but feel free to tell us about other locales too.

Thank you, dear Dopers, for your help.

I lived on Oahu for four years and consider it the most special place I have ever been blessed to live. It is so very expensive - when we moved back to the mainland and I found milk for under $4 a gallon I danced in the store.

Find ways to meet local people - they will help a lot. I don’t know the race of you or your sister, but do not go in with the “I’m white I’m right” attitude. If you (or your sister) are willing to learn you can have a beautiful experience there.

I am jealous. I want to go back…

Thanks for your reply, SnakesCatLady. Like you, I think she would find it a very special place and come away with many wonderful memories.

There’s no worries about the “white is right” thing. We’ve been privileged to know folks of many races and cultures and tend to get along well with everyone. The best man at her wedding (she’d now divorced) was from Tonga. He and his wife were kind enough to cater the reception as well, bringing many traditional Tongan dishes. I still remember the wonderful mussels that they made.

How’s the public transportation in the bigger cities? Could she get by taking the bus for some time or should she look into getting decent used car?

Thanks again, SCL!

Hilo is inexpensive compared to other parts of Hawaii. It’s cheaper to live there then most places in Southern California. I stayed in Kona and Hilo over the summer and Hilo is a sleepy little town. Everyone seems to know everyone and the people are VERY friendly to the outsiders as long as you are polite and respectful. Hilo basically shuts down on Sundays (lots of churches) and after 10 at night, so you don’t want to go there if you are interested in clubs or meeting other young people for romance (not long term anyway, it’s great for short flings). There is a dollar theater that plays movies that are almost out on DVD as well as regular theaters. We ate out almost every day because we found good, cheap food. One of the things I loved about it was how easy it was to get ethnic foods from a wide variety of places for low prices. I had Thai, Indian, Italian, American, Hawaiian, Chinese, Japanese, Korean, etc. There is a farmer’s market in Hilo which has fresh fruits, vegetables, homemade kimchi and plenty of other delicious treats for amazing prices. Because the city of hilo is so compact and small, you don’t need a car if you live in the city. There is a bus which can take you around the island, but if you want to travel a lot, then rent a car which is fairly inexpensive out there because of the tourists.

I personally wouldn’t want to live there, because, at this point in my life, I want to go to clubs and I enjoy having an active social life with a wide variety of young people. This isn’t to say that it is impossible to do that there, just that it’s not as easy as on the mainland due to Hawaii’s young people moving to the mainland to go to college/get jobs. I do plan on retiring there because I love the beauty and culture.

Honolulu is VERY different from Hilo. It’s more modern, less sleepy and full of tourists. There are also clubs, young people everywhere, and a vibrant night life. (at least from what I remember, it’s been a while)

Personally, I would suggest that she go to Hilo unless partying is something that she is really interested in. Hilo is less expensive and you can always travel to Oahu if you really need to party.

I forgot to mention that on the Big Island, Hawaii, you can hitch hike anywhere you need to go. People might get annoyed if you need to do it everyday, but I know people who stayed on the island for a month and only used that method to get around. It’s incredibly safe, I know young females who did it and I personally observed many woman looking for rides while driving around. The crime rate on the Big Island is miniscule. I read the papers everyday while I was there and the worst crime mentioned in the police section was robbery.

Here is the bus schedule. It doesn’t run very often but it’s free (you do have to pay for luggage/backpacks).

The best book for learning about the hidden places on the Big Island is Hawaii, the Big Island Revealed by Andrew Doughty. I looked through a lot of guide books after I was there, and this one revealed things that even some of the locals didn’t know. There are other editions for the other islands, but I can’t personally vouch for those. While I was there I hung out with a writer from their biggest competitor who was a really nice guy, but he didn’t do half the work that the guys who publish those books appear to do. This place told me where to get the cheap sushi, which restaurants to avoid (I failed to take their advice once and it was as bad as they promised it’d be), the times to go to the best beaches, and the best “secrets.” THey’ve gotten in trouble for publishing so many secrets before, so some of them might be more closed off by the time your sister gets out there.

I also wanted to add that even if your sister is the type who likes to go out to party, she might still enjoy living on the Big Island. It is an absolutely amazing experience. In the first 5 days I was there I swam with sea turtles, hiked over a lava field to see new land being formed by molten lava, hiked through a rainforest and across a desert, swam in what may be the best beach in the country, climbed to the top of the tallest mountain in the world, chatted with some of the nicest people I’ve ever met, and ate some of the best food I ever had. The rest of the trip only got better. I plan on going back again within the next few years. It was an absolutely amazing experience and unless your sister isn’t “into” nature, I’m sure she’ll have a blast.

We came out of our slump quite some time ago and have been enjoying very low unemployment for many years. In Honolulu it’s fairly easy to get around by bus. Especially if you live close to routes like the 1 and 2.

You don’t really need heating and air conditioning and you winter wardrobe but the AC is a real nice luxury. I’m not the best person to ask about utilities since they’re all included in my maintenance fee.

Rent can be very expensive though. And generally the cheaper places will require some awful traffic in the morning to drive through.

The biggest thing I hear mainlanders complain about is being trapped, “Rock Fever.” The thing to remember is when we travel we always fly, even to the next county. If she gets a HI driver’s licence she can qualify for Kama’aina(local people) discounts. From the zoo to hotel discounts.

What I really like about living here is the mellowness of the place. From the whether, to the winds, to the nature and just the basic feel of the place.

As long as she’s friendly and a bit adventurous she should fit right in.

And pick up a book called “Pidgin to da Max.”

Every raging, screaming hot-button issue (sovereignty, same sex marriage, any issue at all involving “pidgin”) was started by 20 lunatics with way too much time on their hands. On the whole, we’re a very placid bunch and don’t give a damn about those issues, so don’t bother trying to get a discussion started on that. Or flag burning. Or school prayer.

There are way, way, way too many freakin’ stoplights.

H1 westbound is the Freeway of Death. No other streatch of roadway in the state (not even H1 eastbound) has as many accidents, out-of-nowhere jams, blocked lanes, and other craziness. We recently extended it to six lanes, and it hasn’t improved one bit. That bad. Be advised, too, that if you’re heading west from downtown (up until at least the Chinatown/Liliha area), it can go from 40 mph to dead stop in one second. It’s happened to me twice.

Ala Moana is a much nicer place to shop than it used to be, due mainly in part to all the added parking, but you still want to get there either early (before 10:00) or in the evening. Pealridge is very nice, and you should definitely spend at least one day there. Waikele is good if you don’t mind the pervasive corporate atmosphere. The worst shopping place is Windward Mall; no logic whatsoever to the layout and all the parking spaces are under the sun.

As long as you’re not a jerk about it, you won’t get hassled about your race. Yeah, we have a bazillion stupid jokes, but overt racism is almost nonexistent. In fact, you’d be hard pressed to find anyone who openly supports any serious form of discrimination, even homophobia.

We elected Linda Lingle governor because we were tired of the Democratic hegemony and needed a change. This does not translate into a blanket approval of George Bush, the war in Iraq, religious fundamentalism, a flag burning amendment, tax cuts for the super-wealthy, gross bungling of natural disaster management in coastal cities, etc.

Our bus system isn’t the greatest (and it’s way too expensive), but if you need public transportation, it’s your only real option. We are not building some asinine monorail to shuttle a few hundred University of Hawaii students.

Aloha Stadium has seen better days, but there’s nothing structurally unsafe about it, and heck, it’s not like we’re going to bring over an NFL team or anything. It’s not going anywhere.

We knew Jasmine Trias wasn’t that fantastic. We didn’t care.

Pidgin To Da Max was a goofy project written about 20 years ago. It was never meant to be any kind of instructional aid, a lot of the terms are hopelessly dated, and a few were never in common use. In other words, only use fo undastan da kine, no try da kine yoself, eh?

The island of Hawaii is called “the big island”. Nothing else. Also, anything with “Kam” in the title is spelled with a K and is short for “Kamehameha” (and not “camera”).

Everyone who uses “ufa” is Samoan. If you use it, the most likely response you’ll get is derisive snickering.

It’s not steaming hot about a month and a half of the year. If that. Fortunately, at least it’s a steady uncomfortable heat, not like those insane 110-degree summers you hear about on some parts of the mainland. Hottest it gets is around the low 90’s.

And finally, belting out “Allloooooohaaaaa” is for large formal functions only. And only tourists and federal workers wear aloha shirts.

Questions? :slight_smile:

(Disclaimer: My views are very Oahu/Honolulu-centric.) :stuck_out_tongue:

One of the others will likely be able to let you know if I’m a bit out of touch, but IIRC, one area in which HI was particularly deficient was the concert scene. Compared to Washington State (I’ll assume your sister’s near you?), the concert landscape may seem pretty spartan.

FWIW, flights from HI to/from the West Coast (well, HI and WA, at least; I have no experience with Oregon) can typically be had for $300-$400 depending on how far ahead you’re buying tickets, season, and whether or not you mind flying on ATA. This may help alleviate some of the feeling of homesickness. (More importantly, it won’t cost much to visit and crash at your sister’s place.) :smiley:

Gas prices will be high. It’s been a few years since I lived there, but IIRC, Honolulu’s gas prices are usually duking it out with Los Angeles’ for the honor of being highest in the nation. (YMMV.)

Rent, as Fern Forest noted, will also be high, also similar to Los Angeles’ range. Call it $750 on the low end for a one-bedroom apartment, slightly less for a studio. (Again, this is the low end of the spectrum…by a decent margin, possibly.)

As far as grocery costs go…again I don’t remember it being any worse than L.A. FWIW, there are Costcos going up seemingly every year (yay!) and there are Wal*Marts and Sam’s Clubs as well (boo!).

With regards to good, cheap, “local” places to eat, check out the recent thread in Cafe Society and the links to DMark’s threads found therein. I believe those threads also included advice on not-stereotypically-touristy things to do/places to visit.

Mostly, though, this is all logistics and window-dressing. The best thing about living in Hawaii (except possibly for the beaches), is for the people, who are almost universally (and, WRT the womenfolk, gorgeous), and, again as Fern Forest mentioned, the general laid-back feel of the islands. (That and pidgin English which, while it’s a grammarian’s nightmare, is just so much fun!)

I didn’t read everyone else’s post because I was too excited to give my two cent’s. I lived there for a few years as a Marine guy. THEY HATED US, or so I thought. It turns out that they hate people who walk around thinking they are special because they are _____ (fill in the blank, military, businessmen, white, black, strong, smart). Everyone overall is very laid back there (excluding the Japanese business men who love blonde hair, blue eyed hookers).

Do not expect to get fast food at a fast food place.

Don’t be surprised to go to a local cafe/restaurant and see guys with no shirt/no shoes.

Expect to smell the sweet aroma of marijuana at night at North Shore.

Don’t bump into the Samoans on Waikiki without saying you are sorry, or at least smiling and acknowledging you didn’t do it because you are above them.

Local bars are good, as long as you have the right attitude going into them.

Stay away from the 18 year old Marines. They are drunk, stupid, and think they are invincible. You can’t miss them from their white t-shirts, dog tags hanging out, and combat boots on.

Go to the nude beach. Well worth the relaxing atmosphere. Nobody cares and nobody stares.

Do the tourist thing. It is well worth it.

Do the local thing. It tops the tourist thing.

Don’t get drunk at night when doing the local thing until you are well versed in the local pigeon.

Oh, and say hi to Juana La Cubana, a prostitute in Waikiki. I never had sex with her, but sure regret to this day I didn’t. She was hot!

Oh, you guys are the greatest! I knew you’d come through for us! Thanks for all the recommendations and suggestions and thoughts. It’s all very much appreciated!

I’m going to send her the link to this page right now. Maybe she’ll sign on as a guest and contribute some of her own questions. If so, hi Sis!

looks at your username

Coulda fooled me!

I think you will find that Hawaii is way more expensive than you expect. I have been there several times on business, and every working type person I have met (auto technicians, shop workers, office workers) seem to have at least two jobs. A few had three. Wages seem to be lower, and expenses higher than the mainland.
YMMV of course.

Honolulu or Hilo? Well, as the others have said, there is quite the difference between the two areas. Personally, I think I’d go insane in Hilo. Not enough variety in stuff to do there.

And like DKW mentioned, ‘ufa’ is Samoan. ‘uff da’ is Scandinavian and not usually heard there. :wink:

The things I really miss the most about Hawai’i are the people, the land, and the food.

The things I don’t miss are the high prices, the traffic, the lack of parking, and tacky and/or stupid tourists. (You know the type: from the mainland yet ask what the exchange rate is, can’t belive everyone isn’t living in grass huts, decide to go body surfing at Sandy’s without knowing how to swim, etc.)

A few sources for local news: the Honolulu Advertiser and the Star-Bulletin.

Forget directions like north, south, east, and west: on O’ahu at least it’ll be mauka, makai, Diamond Head, and Ewa. (Towards the mountains, towards the sea, towards that crater that everyone just has to get in background shots of Waikiki, and towards Ewa which is a town on the side of the island opposite of Diamond Head.)

Oh, and she’ll need to get used to a weather forecast that is normally a variation on 'windward and mauka showers early (and/or late) with partly cloudy skies and tradewinds 10-15 mph. :smiley:


<< Yes, I’ve heard of “decaf.” What’s your point? >>

Pakalolo

Pau - (pronounced pow) done.

Okole - butt

:smiley:

Actually, my username stems from my grandmother’s maiden name. She was Finnish, not Hawaiian.

I just got back from Hawaii yesterday. This was my 4th trip. My son caught a marlin.

Gas prices are arounf $3.56/gallon on the big island. Slightly less on Oahu.

I paid $16 for two Quarter Pounders and 4 milks on Waikiki.

The North Shore is, as always, beautiful. Be careful walking through the stands of trees between the beach to the parking lot. People live in there. Quite a few, actually.

I’ve also been to Maui and Kauai. If I had to pick one to live on it’d be the Big Island, but then sportfishing probably means more to me than to you.

It’s a great place, especially if you’re an active, outdoorsy type.

Nightsong’s right-- you WOULD go insane in Hilo. I lived on that side of the island for 6 years and . . . wouldn’t choose to do it again, before, say, retirement. Nice place to be a tourist/ visitor for 3 months. Longer than that, well. Depends on your personal tendencies.

My sister thanks you all for your responses. She’s going to see if the library has the book that kimera recommended and some others by the same author. Thanks , Nightsong, for the local news links and the weather info.

My sister isn’t a big partier but she does like the occasional night out so Hilo might be a good fit but she might be just as happy in Honolulu or elsewhere.

Wow, that is steep but I’m kind of surprised that gas doesn’t cost more than it actually does. How big was the marlin that your son caught?

Again, thanks everyone!

Just one more thing to add, especially if your sister is thinking of staying in Hawaii long term.

Unless she is promoted to a very high position in the company with a great salary, she will most probably never actually own a home, just about every one rents. Condos are unbelievably expense and a house with a yard? Forget about it!

And don’t forget, if you move there you might run into Dog the Bounty Hunter… http://www.dogthebountyhunter.com/