Why isn’t the icemaker making ice? I don’t even hear it filling. Is there a solenoid valve that is failing to open to start the process, perhaps? Is this something one can try to diagnose (and maybe fix) without calling a professional? - Jinx
FYI: The in-line water filter was just replaced. Late, but replaced.
There is a lever or some kind of sensor that senses when it is full and may be stuck in the “full” position with residual ice. I have to fix mine frequently because of that including this morning. Take all the trays out, clean them, and clear any backed up ice from them. I can’t promise that it will work but it is quick and clean to do it.
Yes, there’s a solenoid. Mine was at the bottom back of the refrigerator. I had the opposite probelm - it wouldn’t shut off, and created a flood. They’re easy to replace.
Ok, now how to disconnect it? I see it is bracketed to the side wall. But, I do not readily see where the water line connection is. And, what kind of connection is it? Is it like a union joint I can easily disconnect with a crescent wrench, perhaps? Or, perhaps the water line is “press fit” into a nipple extending off the icemaker? Please elaborate…before I must defrost the freezer to accomplish this!
Thanks
Bottom back…but, is that interior to the freezer space, or exterior (on the back of the refrigerator)? I can’t easily see behind my fridge nor do I see anything obvious around the icemaker. Inside the freezer, off the rear wall, there appears to be a chute allowing water to run into the icemaker. (Although, I’ve never observed the icemaker in operation to confirm my suspicion about the function of this chute.) In short, I WAG all the valving and piping connections to the water line are on the rear wall, exterior.
So, I guess I’ll be moving the fridge out of its happy home, huh? Oh, joy! :rolleyes:
Mine was basically underneath the fridge. It was accessible from the back, and you had to remove the cardboard shield to get at it. I suspect that if you Googled the model number, you could come up with diagrams.
Before you begin with the disassembly, troubleshoot a bit further.
While the compressor isn’t running, slowly move the long wire which signals a full hopper up and down through its range. Do you hear the microswitch clicking? If not, then investigate that further. If the unit thinks it’s full, nothing else is going to happen.
If the switch clicks, (yes, it could still be electrically hosed, but they aren’t a high fail item), give a listen for the solenoid. Assuming that the unit is calling for ice production, it has to run through a “dry cycle” before sending power to the solenoid. At the beginning of the cycle, the solenoid is energized for several seconds to fill the icemaker. If you don’t hear the solenoid energizing, then (a) it’s shot, or (b) it isn’t receiving power from the icemaker to make it operate.
If those two items pass their ‘sounds OK’ tests, double check your water line. Particularly if it’s plastic, someone may have moved the fridge and inadvertently kinked the line. If the line looks OK, place some old towels on the floor, and crack the water line feed connection at the solenoid to see if water is indeed present.
Was the icemaker OK before the filter was changed?
If changing the filter killed it, there may be a shut-off valve still closed, or the filter might have been installed backward, or if you’ve got those quick-connect fittings that allow changing filters without shutting off the water, one may not be latched in all the way to allow water to flow.