Yes, I’ve been typing Dvorak for 10 years now. Similar experiences to Folly and Winsling. I don’t find I’m any faster, but it’s way easier on my wrists and fingers. Between piano and guitar, I’ve fought RSI/tendinitis for ages.
Yes, it makes it awkward to use somebody else’s computer, but it makes it really hard for somebody else to use yours, as well. Think of it as a double-locking password.
The most useful trick I found for learning was to print out the keyboard diagram and tape it to the top of the monitor; it makes you look up to find your way rather than looking down at the keys.
Windows can switch between Dvorak and QWERTY with a little bit of work, but on Macs it’s dead easy. Important for me because my kids (6 and 9) need to see the letters on the keys in order to type.
I’ve had key labels before - they’re a drag, they just get dirty and wear off. What’s interesting is when they’ve been on for a few months, the ones on the home row are the dirtiest, followed by the upper row and the ones on the bottom row are by far the cleanest. Anecdotal evidence, I grant you.
One of these days, someone’s going to do a complete study of the relative merits of different keyboard arrangements.