Missed the edit, but there’s pics of one sitting on a living room floor on the offsetguitars.com forum thread. It seems like Fender hasn’t officially launched them, but they might be shipping them already in limited numbers.
Interesting. And $350, wow. I’m not sure why you think we can’t link to other boards. I hadn’t heard that one. Not saying you’re wrong, just hadn’t heard it before.
My Egnater tweaker head died last night. Power seems to work. Tubes light up. But (almost) no output. Initially it made loud popping noises, now (almost) nothing. Except, if you turn up the master gain, you can hear a rushing sound; if I turn up the master and channel gain to 11, I can just make out, very very softly, the sound of a plugged in guitar, very quiet, very distorted. The bass notes have an “octave” effect applied. It seems like the power and preamp sections are working, just really badly.
Obviously the first thing to try is re-tubing. Anybody else have thoughts? Does my description indict the power or preamp sections more? I’m thinking the latter.
Sorry, squeegee - I hate it when that happens. I don’t consider myself a circuit guy, as you well know, so I will leave it to other Dopers to dig in. I will say that I have encountered stuff like that, and sometimes it was just making sure that your tubes were properly seated in their sockets and emitting the expected amount of light when running. Eyeballing a dead tube is about as ambitious I get - past that, I take 'em in.
Sonofagun, the Tweaker has a 3 year warranty (90 days on tubes). Looks like I just need to find a service center. Customer service form sent to Egnater.
My Tweeker did the same thing a couple of months ago. Took it to one amp shop that had it for 3 weeks and couldn’t figure out what was wrong with it. Then I took it to a different shop and they had it for a week and it stumped them too. So they ordered the wiring schematic from Egnater and went to town checking each and every solder joint…
The problem turned out that when the amp heated up, one particular solder joint got too hot and became unstable. It started to liquify a little and the connection was compromised. As soon as they resoldered the connection, it came back to life…
Judging from your description, I’d say the same thing is happening to yours.
Is there a “Line Out” or “Effects Out/Effects In” between the preamp and the power amp? That would be a useful place to check for a signal.
Hmm, that’s not good. Sounds like a design flaw. So if I get it fixed it’ll just break again.
There’s an effects loop. What do I do, take the effects send and plug that into my other guitar amp? If it I get good signal, then what?
Well, hell. I just heard back from Egnater. They game me the names of all their authorized repair places in California, and there’s not one in the SF Bay area (I’m in Gilroy, 30 minutes south of San Jose). Five in the LA area, and one each in San Diego, Fresno, and Bakersfield. Fresno is the closest at 120 miles. So I guess I’m shipping my amp somewhere. I suppose I should choose one of the LA places, there’s plenty of music expertise down there, right? Anyone want to throw a dart at this list?
AUDIO DESIGN AND SERVICE
NORICK
ASLANYAN
info@audiodesign-service.com
10764 Vanowen st.
N. HOLLYWOOD
CA
91605
818-754-0467
AUDIO REPAIR SPECIALIST
Mike
mike@arsrepair.com
6603 Independence Ave., Suite G
CANOGA PARK
CA
91303
818-346-3762
DB ELECTRONICS
Shan
shan.farley@comcast.net
4051 North Valentine
FRESNO
CA
93722
559-229-6092
GPS ELECTRONICS
George
Tomahich
gpseletro@yahoo.com
13045 TOM WHITE WAY, SUITE I
NORWALK
CA
90650
562-802-0840
PACIFIC WEST SOUND
Brent
Milton
brentm@pacificwestsound.com
2305 Alta Vista Drive
BAKERSFIELD
CA
93305
661-395-1448
SAN DIEGO SOUND
Ezra
Maxwell
emaxwell@sdsmr.com
6563 El Cajon Blvd
SAN DIEGO
CA
92115
619-582-8511
THE TONE GARAGE
JEFFREY
COLLISON
HollyAnn@TheToneGarage.com
438 CALLE SAN PABLO UNIT B
CAMARILLO
CA
93012
805-482-5222
I’m not sure where I got that idea either. I think I heard it was to prevent flame wars. But I can’t see how this would cause one, and I don’t find anything to back it up in the board rules, so here’s a link to the post with the pics of it on a living room floor:
http://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=71490&start=491
I agree with squeegee, that sounds like a design flaw. Electronic devices usually don’t get hot enough to melt solder unless they’re a soldering iron.
Cool, thank you!! Do we think that’s a 30" scale like a regular Fender VI? And, huh, three pickups with offity-on switches for each, and mysterious fourth switch (bass cutoff like in the Fender Bass VI wiki article?). Interesting.
Also, what makes that a bass and not a baritone guitar?
I don’t know how a baritone guitar is tuned, but I reckon if all strings are tuned an octave below a standard guitar’s, it’s a bass guitar.
Trivia: Leo Fender sold the first Precision Basses as an “Electric Bass”. The six string was his “Bass Guitar”.
[QUOTE=Ranger Jeff]
Is there a “Line Out” or “Effects Out/Effects In” between the preamp and the power amp? That would be a useful place to check for a signal.
[/QUOTE]
Generally, the effects loop is between the pre-amp and the power-amp circuits. If you get a good signal out of the effects send, that would indicate the problem is in the power amp and not in the pre-amp. So if you’re going to try tube replacing/wiggling, at least you’ll know which tubes to try. In trouble shooting terms, you’d be “half-stepping”.
So if I take a Bass VI and tune it up one half-step, does it become a baritone guitar? 
ETA: I posted that before your reply about effect loops. I’ll give what you said a try.
Opinions may vary - my Baritone Guitar is a six-string instrument that is tuned down a fourth - BEADF#B . It has a gorgeous tone, even after its accident. I use it primarily for transposing guitar/voice music down from its original key.
It’s actually very strange to hear/play familiar music on it - we had a studio recital a couple of weeks ago where my teacher and three of his students (including me) played what we’d been working on lately. I played 4 of the Leo Brouwer ‘Estudios Sencillos’ from Book 3, and the other students were so intrigued they both wanted to play their pieces on it as well.
Just put a capo on the 7th fret for a baritone guitar.
Every report I’ve heard says it’s 30". It’d be decidedly strange for them to change the scale, the overhang past the bridge to the tail piece would make it’s overall length longer than a Jazz or Precision. I can’t imagine the switches being set up differently, either. Three pickups/four switches implies on/off for the pickups with either a master on/off or an effect for the fourth switch. A bass cut is a cheap effect, so I bet it’s still that. OTOH, guitar manufacturers do some decidedly strange things, so I could lose that bet.
Ooooo!, I found a place you can order one at! 
It’s in the Netherlands, so I don’t think I’ll order just yet. 
However, if their description is accurate, it has the scale and controls kids crave, including voodoo!
http://www.rockpalace.com/en/product/Squier-Vintage-Modified-Bass-VI-3-Color-Sunburst
Voodoo?
The bass cut switch.