Missed edit window…
As an example:
Bottom line: if it works, do it. When playing “straight lead” you are often focused on single or double-note techniques like vibrato, big bends, harmonics and pinching harmonics, etc. If you are playing the lead/melody notes within a chord shape, you limit how much you can apply those techniques, or at least make it harder. I watch Richard Thompson grab a chord on an acoustic and vibrato his whole friggin’ hand - just amazing.
However, if you are not interested as much in those single-string techniques, then yeah, finding the notes within the chord shape - directed arpeggiating, if you will, with some hammer-ons and such - is a great way to go. In fact, if you play fingerstyle, then holding chords or partial chords while messing about on other strings is pretty much how you do it! I hold down chords and thumb the bass line, and use my fingers in a variety of ways to sell chords and melodic lines. Fun stuff.
I’m in the process of figuring out what style of guitar I want to focus on. I’m in my fifties now and theres a limit to what I can learn and accomplish. If I was thirty then it would be different.
Since I’ll typically be playing solo, the Carter style of playing appeals to me. Getting a fuller sound by picking notes and strumming. At some point I want to get into CrossPicking. Thats a whole lot harder but it gives a bigger, richer sound.
Townes Van Zandt is very good. Thanks for the link.
Finger Style is something I might try. If I live long enough. 
I’d like to at least learn basic Travis picking. Thats what John Denver did with many of his songs.
All the notes you’ll want are mostly available within an open position cord (the ones you first learn). Check YouTube to see Doc Watson play. He mostly found his melody/leads within the chords he was playing. For Cs and Fs, I find it useful to barre the 2 bass strings with my ring finger for the alternating bass and still have a pinky available (C = 332010 and F = x33211). It’s either that or bounce the ring finger up and down between the strings, which I’ve been known to do also.
What I’ve noticed a lot of lead players do is barre the first 3 or 4 strings with their first finger and use their 2nd and 3rd fingers to get to the first 3 frets above the bar.
Thank you for the tips Ranger Jeff. 
Theres so much to learn and I’m always looking to see how experienced players do it. I’ll check out Doc Watson for sure.
What is your preferred contact cleaner spray for cleanings pots in amps and instruments?
I use CRC 11 oz, Aerosol Can
I’ve used it for many years, cleaning pots in stereos, amps and tv’s.
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heres a thread discussing cleaners. several posters mentioned CRC
Stew Mac recommends and sells CAIG DeoxIT Pot & Switch Cleaner
http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Cleaners_and_Lubricants/CAIG_DeoxIT_Pot_and_Switch_Cleaner.html
its almost 3 times as expensive. I haven’t used it but its mentioned in thegearpage thread.
Just this week I bought a Fender American Standard Ash Sienna Busrt Shawbucker. It was almost $1500, but I put another $200 into it because I wanted some “Deluxe” features that are now only on the “Elite Series”. I started with Fender Locking Tuners and will have chrome Grapghtech saddles any day now. I wish it came with the compound radius neck but I settled for the 9.5 throughout. It’s unbelievable that Fender wants $500 for the replacement neck with the compound radius. The Shawbucker is much better than I expected. I wanted the three single coil version but it wasn’t in stock until late this month. So I went for the Shawbucker and found it can be focused to sound like a clean “small guitar” third single coil. It has the ability to growl and overdrive but you’re not stuck with a PUP that one dimensional. I love the custom shop "fat 50s’ in the neck and mid. I play through my computer using Guitar Rig Pro 5 and output the mixed signal to me Bugera 55 watt Infinium amp. My other electrisc is a swamp ash Schecter A-6 with Seymour Duncan Nazgul passives, 24 frets. ebony board with HipShot bridge. This guitar is awesome and together I can cover all bases.
Corporal Clegg - welcome to the GOGT. Sounds like you got a fun guitar - play it in good health!
It sounds like you are ready for just building a Parts-o-Caster yourself. I’ve built a couple of Teles that are my main guitars and loved being able to specify features like a short-scale/Gibson neck on one of them, compound radius neck, etc. And since I am not starting with a Fender guitar, the costs are far less. Heck, my first Parts-o-Tele started off as someone else’s project - I liked the neck and one pickup, so bought $1,200 of parts for $300! I swapped a bunch of things out, but was still out only ~$800. My main guitar to this day - sold my '57 LP Special because I play this more.
**I-VI-ii-V ** - Yeah, I just buy whatever is on the Stew-Mac site. I don’t know electronics so when in doubt, just do what they tell me
Some electrical cleaners aren’t safe for plastics. I’ve seen old mechanical tv tuners badly damaged by “The Blue Stuff” a very old cleaner common in the 70’s and 80’s. Always check the label/specifications and confirm the contact cleaner is safe or all plastics.
CRC Contact Cleaner is safe for all plastics. CRC/Electric parts cleaner isn’t (its sold at Auto Zone)… Theres also very strong cleaners meant to clean flux (from soldering) and other contaminants off circuit boards. I wouldn’t use that stuff to clean pots either.
Cleaning a dirty pot will usually fix the problem. But, if its badly worn then it’ll have to be replaced. Usually easy on old amps. Just number the wires, and snip. Solder them back on the new pot in the same order. If the pot is mounted to the circuit board it can be a major PITA to unsolder. Take it to a repair shop.
Thanks for the advice. I’m going to pick up some CRC the next time I’m at Home Depot.
Does anyone else use the same gauge strings on their acoustics and electrics?
I seem to be arriving at a place where I am using .12’s on both. I would attribute this to incorporating fingerstyle into my playing. With my fingers doing strumming, picking and plucking, I really depend on a specific responsiveness. If the strings are too light, I can really smear the fingering and sound out of tune.
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Acoustic: I was always a Medium/.13’s guy, but as I have transitioned to lightly-built, small body Martin guitars, they require Lights/.12’s and sound plenty big and loud with them. I have come to love the responsiveness of the slightly lighter gauge.
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Electric: I had been using .11’s, already a heavy-ish gauge for electrics. But when I try fingerstyle, I was smearing too much since my fingers are used to the .12’s on my Martins. I am trying .12’s to see how it goes.
I was thinking about posting something along these lines since I finally, recently changed the strings on my Guild acoustic. I’m opposite though: I play 10’s mainly on my electrics. I don’t know what I had on the Guild before (they were old), but I could do my bends with no problems. I put on a set of “lights” which are 12’s and good-god! I didn’t know you could pull a finger muscle 
I’ll probably stick with these 12’s for a bit and see if I can get used to them. The biggest change is the G string is wound and I can’t get a full step bend. Particularly when bending with my pointer finger: Like when you fret the B with your middle finger on the 7th fret and then bend the 5th fret on the G with your pointer.
I restrung since I want to start playing it more and start trying finger or flat/hybrid style picking so maybe I don’t need to worry about bending with this guitar.
It does make it a lot easier to go back to a Tele with 10’s though!
10’s on my Electric guitars (Elixir Light Nanoweb Electric )
11’s on my Acoustic (Elixir Nanoweb Custom Lights)
I was using 12’s on my acoustics and the tech at my guitar shop advised me that 11’s put less strain on the neck and guitar top. They are easier on my fingers too. I can play longer without getting sore.
The strain is a point I didn’t think of. My Guild is from 1970 (I think) and the top is definitely moving a bit (it is no longer flat - dip in front of bridge and hump behind). Not too bad but it’s there - strings are also too high above 12th fret. Maybe I should get those 12’s off before I think to change them again in 5 years…
wguy - get your guitar checked out by a reputable tech. It’s got lots of mileage, so it is always a good idea for a checkup. Most Guild models should handle .13’s (Medium gauge) easily, unless they designate Light (like some Martin small guitars, for example). If you are worried about .12’s, you should make sure it gets a once-over; it may need a neck reset or something.
As for my .12’s on my Tele - man, playing AC/DC is so damn fun. Malcolm played with heavy strings on his Gretsch. Like Stevie Ray Vaughn, you don’t really appreciate how much the heavy gauge contributes until you play it. I dial down the gain level on my dirtbox because I don’t need it - I dig in hard when I strum and the strings just drive the amp into MalcolmLand. Kicking off Problem Child with that instantly-rocking riff is so damn fun. But I said that already
I use fairly similar gauges on electric and acoustic. D’addario Jazz Lights (.12-.52) on electric and Pearse 600L Light (.12-.53) on acoustic. Most people who pick up my guitars bitch about the heavy strings. 
But, I’ll report the same things that WordMan does about the heavier strings on electric. I started using them ages ago when my amp just didn’t have enough crunch when not using a box (Ampeg VT22). I was figuring, more metal in the string = a stronger disruption in the magnetic field, and more signal to work with. I’m not sure if the theory is sound, but the results were what I wanted; fuller tone, with more bite without going treble-y. If you’re a slide player, you get the added benefit of the strings not deflecting as much from the slide.
The only thing I really see that you’re giving up with the heavier strings on electric is the ease of soaring bends. I have one or two guitars that still have the lights they were bought with - it’s so easy to bend on those by comparison, it’s actually kind of humorous.
A huge Amen on the slide comment. I was rockin’ out playing Mercury Blues by David Lindley and El Rayo-X and it was just fun as all hell. (No I can’t play lead like Lindley but I got the song across ;)).
The song, if you don’t know it: David Lindley - Mercury Blues - YouTube
I do fine with bends, but I have been getting up over full-step bends on my acoustic for years. I never go for more than that - I ain’t Santana - so it is not an issue.
I use skinny top heavy bottoms on my tele to get around that. Mind you I haven’t played too much with the slide on my Tele.
I finally broke down and bought a pedal board for my meager collection of effects; a Pedal Train nano+. My amp boost pedal, Boss DS-1 Distortion and Vox Wah are now resident there. Question is, what should I add to it? I’m mostly playing classic rock with a dash of grunge and country. I’ve thought about either a looper or a compressor but I’m open to suggestions.
I’m trying to stay with a less is more mantra. I don’t wnt to end up like Alex Lifeson with a pedal board the size of a small piano.