Today I did some grocery shopping and then made a batch of our nearly-sacred Christmas sugar cookie dough. These will be baked tomorrow, cut out with tin cutters I’ve inherited from my mother, and decorated in the only possible manner: sprinkles of coarse red and green sugar (on separate cookies, for heaven’s sake.)
Thus it has been, thus it will always be – at least until I am no longer able to cook.
The recipe was clipped from a woman’s magazine by my maternal grandmother during World War II. Yes, 80 years ago! I know this for sure, because I still have the original clipping glued to a 3X5 recipe card, though it has sadly tattered edges, miscellaneous stains, and the paper has darkened to the point that making out the print from the paper is a real challenge. Luckily my mother wrote out the basics of the ingredients/amounts/technique/temperature on the back of the card at some point. In pencil, which itself has greatly smudged and softened with wear over time but is still legible. (And one of very few samples of my mother’s writing that I still have.)
This is THE sugar cookie recipe. I have eaten at least dozens, maybe hundreds of other sugar cookies in my life, but they are WRONG. This recipe, with its adjustment for wartime shortages, is the one true one. My grandmother Lily used to visit us each year at Christmas time, and she’d always bake us several batches. In my memory, every single time while I ‘helped’ her make the cookies she’d tell me how her husband, who always had had fried eggs for breakfast each day, would make the sacrifice of switching to oatmeal for several days, just so the family would have the eggs to make these cookies.
I have no idea if these cookies are actually superior. I really can’t tell. I just know that if a sugar cookie doesn’t have that snap! that comes from nothing but Crisco as the fat (Butter? We were never so decadent as to use butter! Save it for the soldiers, you know?) and scented with the perfect combination of vanilla, nutmeg, and most importantly cardamom! it just wasn’t right.
My mom inherited the recipe, of course, and made them every year. She was the cook, so her traditions were the ones that were passed down. All her daughters made these cookies ever since. I know her daughters-in-law all were entrusted with the recipe, but some of them traitorously insisted on their own family’s recipe. So sad. With any luck, some of my sisters’ descendants will also be making these cookies decades from now.
So, how about you? Do you have recipe, or other, traditions that are basically unchangeable? That simply must be followed, exactly as taught, year after year after decades?