The Project Guitar. Or: ‘I Have GAS’

The story thus far: Twenty-some years ago I bought an acoustic Takamine guitar, a Classical C-128, and enrolled in Beginning Folk Guitar at the local college. Armed with an assortment of chords, I amused myself playing Folk, Rock, and New Wave tunes. My picking skills were, and still are, limited. A friend sold me his Hondo II Les Paul copy. My strumming sounded better when produced with the aid of electronics, and the strings required less pressure. But the Hondo would not stay in tune. Every ten minutes I’d have to stop and retune it. And when I wanted to play it I’d have to get out the amplifier, plug in the cord, and find an elusive pick. It was much easier to pick up the Takamine, and I didn’t have to stop to tune it all the time. Well, by friend was going through one of his ‘Baroque Periods’ (he said, punning shamelessly) and sold me his Fender Telecaster. When he bought it he’d assumed that they would in the future only be made in Japan, so he got an American one while he could. I liked this guitar better than the Hondo, but it was still easier to play the Takamine unplugged. A few years later he had some cash, and I sold his guitar back to him for what I paid for it. After a while I began to miss it.

Which brings us to the present. I decided to get a duplicate of that Fender. But there was a catch. Fender no longer offered the ‘Antique White’ (pale yellow) that I wanted. I put the thought away for a few years. After visiting my friend in New Orleans last May and seeing him play his now-Katrina-damaged-and-then-refurbished Tele, I decided to search eBay. And what do you know? There’s the guitar I wanted; an American 1993 Fender Telecaster in Antique White with a rosewood fretboard. It cost twice what I’d paid for the first one, but still less than a new American one that didn’t come in the proper colour. Not long after that I found a Squier (by Fender) Tele that was a near twin of my new acquisition. It had a maple fretboard, but it was Antique White and it was cheap. And that’s where it started…

‘It’, of course, is GAS; ‘Guitar Acquisition Syndrome’. You see, I had to replace the neck with one with a rosewood fretboard. I found one with the Squier name, plus a three-ply Fender pick guard. The illusion was complete. Now, the Squier is a fine cheap guitar for a beginner. It doesn’t sound great, but neither does it sound bad. However next to the Fender I found it unplayable. Why not upgrade it? I found a set of Fender SCN pickups and a nice Fender four-way switch and control panel assembly with upgraded pots (potentiometers) and capacitor. I cackled gleefully. I’d modify my cheapo made-in-some-random-Asian-country Squier and surprise real guitar players who expected to hear a low-quality guitar! Muwahahahahaha! But when it came down to it I noticed that the Squier has a ‘hard-tail’ bridge; the strings did not go through the body as they do on the Fender. Perhaps I should upgrade the Fender instead?

It is a quirk in my nature that I appreciate the mundane. For many things I like them just as they were designed. I found myself loath to alter the originality of the ’93. In any case, I’d be left with an extra set of electronics and an extra neck. The only sensible thing to do would be to build a guitar.

I wanted to paint the body Deep Amethyst Pearl, a Chrysler colour, which is the colour of my Jeep. Dark purple. But I found that it’s impossible to find anyone who could mix that shade in the traditional nitrocellulose lacquer. I found a brand-new 2008 American Fender body in Burgundy. That should do as a base-coat, and I supposed I could just use acrylic lacquer. When the body arrived I decided I liked it just as it is. I used conductive-adhesive-backed copper tape in three widths and applied them to all four cavities as shielding. It’s time to install the electronics. But I didn’t have a soldering iron, and I’m not sure of my skills in any case; so I took the body to the shop to have the pickups and control panel installed. The soft-spoken kid liked my shielding job, and made sure it was grounded when he connected the wiring. That night I shielded the pick guard and put on the vintage-style covered bridge.

There was only one problem: I’d forgotten to buy a neck plate so I couldn’t put the maple Squier neck on and string it up. That was quickly resolved. I managed to break the D string when I was putting the strings on. It wasn’t too tight, so I assume that I was just tightening the string too quickly and not allowing it time to stretch. Good job I’d bought three sets. Plugging the guitar in for the first time, I was pleased at how good it sounded. I played it for an hour or so, tuning it occasionally as the strings stretched.

I took my project back to the shop for setup. The kid set the string height and torqued the neck slightly to take care of some buzzing I’d noticed but forgot to mention to him. I asked him what he thought. He said the tone was ‘buttery’. He seemed to like it. I like it too.

So that’s how I got my Secret Fender/Fake Squier. (The head says ‘Squier’, but that and the tuners are the only Squier parts. The rest is all Fender. I think it’s amusing.)

So about that real Squier… I have a soldering iron now. Surgery is currently under way. :wink:

Bhuwhah, snicker – you seem to be having way too much fun. Wipe that grin off your face this instance, mister! :slight_smile: In any case, that’s a nice tale of trials and tribbilations with a guitar. Keep going!

BTW, “GAS” means Gear Acquisition Syndrome, so you’re not off the hook if you buy 14 Marshall stacks of all slightly different (but Very Importantly Different) specs. Its all the same madness!

Your really should consider commissioning a “FrankenFender” headstock decal for this beast. That would be perfect. Though a defacing “Squire” decal to read “Squirrel” has some merit.

If you like building things, check out www.ax84.com. They have open source tube amp plans. They even sell entire kits for <$300! I have the Hi-Octane kit, it seriously sounds awesome. Wish it had reverb though…but I have schematics to put one in.

Oh, now why did you have to post that!

My dad had a Heathkit tube amp. I’ve no idea what he used it for, as by the time I came along he didn’t use it. It was just one of those things in the garage. I thought it would be neat if I could get it to work (a couple of tubes were missing), but I didn’t know what for.

What’s it like to build one of these? I have no electronics experience, but I’m pretty sure I can follow ‘solder this wire to this bit’.

Off to read the documentation…

[surveys this situation]

My work here is done. :D:cool::smiley:

[/surveys the situation]

Too funny - Johnny L.A. it all sounds great. Glad to hear you end up liking the new body - as a US Fender body it is string-thru, not a top loader? (btw “hard tail” is used on Strats to describe ones that come withOUT a whammy bar - so the bridge is hard-bolted to the body, and doesn’t float…).

Buttery typically means that the tone isn’t ice-picky and sustains well, so you can play legato lines easily and the notes flow together well. Very cool.

Nunavut Boy - haven’t seen you recently - did you catch the two Guitar Project threads I started a few weeks ago and that influenced this madness? And yeah, I have been SO tempted to try an amp kit - but I have a couple of amazing amps - both obscure hand made boo-teek amps based on simple circuits - that I just love and so haven’t bitten yet…

As for me, still waiting for the new neck to check out for my next project - should be a few more weeks since I sent the first one back…

Thanks for the terminology corrections. Of course ‘gear’ for me currently means ‘guitar’. Though there’s that amp kit… :wink: I looked around for a term for the bridge, but I didn’t come across ‘top-loader’. Filed for future reference!

WordMan: Yes, the US Fender body is a string-through. I’m really happy with the way it turned out. I like the tone. Since I didn’t know what was doing, I couldn’t say ‘I want it to sound like this’. I just wanted it to sound ‘better’ than the '93. After reading threads here, I knew I wanted to reduce hum; hence the shielding. The SCN pickups are, as the name says, ‘noiseless’; so I got them. The pots are 250k, which Stewart MacDonald says produce a warmer sound than the 500k pots they sell; but I have no idea what is stock on a Fender. Anyway, I bought the switch/pots/jack/plate/knobs as a unit from Metro Guitar. The capacitor is a Sprague .022mfd ‘orange drop’, which they say is ‘not as muddy’ as a .047mfd one. As I told you offline, I’ll probably replace the neck eventually. The Warmoth neck looks nice, but $75 for a finish seems a bit steep. I noticed that StewMac has an aerosol satin finish, and I think I can handle that. By the time I do that, I’ll be used to the narrow electric guitar neck and I may or may not go for their slightly wider one. Or maybe I’ll just get a used Fender neck with the tuners already installed. Less work than the Warmoth, but I can’t think of an advantage over the Squier neck I’m using now.

As for the Squier, this is where I am: The three cavities and the pick guard are shielded. The wire routing is different from the Fender. The neck pickup wires go to the bridge pickup cavity, rather than to the control cavity, and then go into the control cavity through the same hole as the bridge pickup wires. Interestingly, there is a diagonal hole that goes from the control cavity to the top of the body below the cavity. I’m guessing that this is a dedicated path for a ground wire to the bridge. I’m not using it, since the SCN pickup has a short ground wire that goes from the eyelet to lay between the body and the bridge. I have a little ‘tab’ of copper tape to ensure a good contact.

As I said, the Squier bridge is a ‘top loader’. I bought a new Fender bridge identical to the one on the '93 (as opposed to the vintage-style one with the ‘ashtray’ I used on the FrankenCaster). The Squier bridge has four screws – one in each corner. The Fender one has three screws as expected. I’ll trace the outline of the new bridge onto the body of the guitar and check it for alignment, then drill the three screw holes. Next I’ll remove the saddles so that I can get to the string holes and use them as a template. I have a tool that fits onto a hand drill that is basically a round plate with two perpendicular rods sticking up. It will allow me to drill the string holes straight down. When the ferrules arrive I’ll put them in and then I’ll be ready to route the wiring and solder everything together. The switch plate on the Squier has the volume hole closer to the tone hole than on the Fender(s), and the holes are of smaller diameter so the new pots won’t fit. I’ve ordered a new one. Once the ferrules and the switch plate arrive I’ll solder everything together, string it, and I’ll be done!

The sticker on the Squier pick guard says the body is ‘Alder/Agathis’. I don’t know what that means. I’ve read that agathis and alder are ‘in the same family’. Does that mean they are taxonomically in the same family? Or ‘in the same family’ as in ‘for use in guitar bodies, they exhibit similar properties’? Or does it mean that the body is either alder or agathis, depending on what the factory had on-hand that day? Given: The FrankenFender and the modified Squier have the same pickups, the same switches, the same pots, the same pick guards, the same strings and (except for the rosewood fretboard) the same necks. They both have (or will have when I’m done) strings through the body. So they should sound similar except for different tones from the body wood. If that’s true, then I think it’s possible that it will sound better than the stock '93 Fender.

But what will I do with it? I wanted two Teles in case a friend came over so we could both play. I’ve no use for three Teles!

Johnny it’s pretty easy to build those amps. I had no electronics experience at all before doing it and mine worked first try. Plus it was really fun and interesting! The thing that’s most time consuming is chasing down unwanted hum. The higher gain the amp is, the more problems you’re going to have with hum. The Hi-Octane kit I built is most definitely high gain. I’m still waiting for some shielded wire to come in the mail to hopefully get rid of the last of mine.

WordMan I skimmed one thread a while ago, but I have been busy, busy, busy at work all summer. I should have a look again now that I have some time!

One more thing WordMan, of course you don’t ‘NEED’ another amp. I sure didn’t. But if you need a reason to justify a homebuild amp, you can tell yourself (or the wife) that its an effort to learn more about tube amps in general so you can properly maintain them without having to use an amp tech, so you can tell when your main amps are failing, and what (if any) mods you can do yourself to tube amps. It’s nice to have a kit amp to try out that added tone circuit (or whatever) before you crack open your boutique amp. You’ll even save money in the long run because you can perform your own amp diagnoses and repair. You could also learn enough to scratch-build classic tube amps of the past for 1/4 the cost. Look how much money you saved by building your own 1974(?) plexi instead of buying the real thing! So really, you’re doing your conscience (or wife, same difference) a favour!

Well, a kit amp is a much cheaper mid-life crisis than a Ferrari or a divorce. :slight_smile: