Sevastopol…you asked about Sea-Gull watches. I have two Sea-Gull watches (model m222s - one with a brown face, and one with a black face) I also have about 20 watches with Sea Gull 3600 movements. These were derived from the original Unitas movements of the 1950’s with a number of improvements.
My watchmaker considers the Sea-Gulls that I own to be equal or better than Swiss ETA movements of the mid grades. They are of 16 linge, so the cases have to be large, but I really enjoy these 17 jeweled handwound mechanical movements.
You may want to look at a few devoted fora to watches…my favorite is Watchuseek…google it and take a look.
I lusted after one of those for years. When it came to it though, I decided the gold lugs on the curved bezel were a little too much for me and I went for Brand R.
It is a smaller watch. I like the larger faces on the Sub and GMT. But the Air King is just big enough not to be mistaken for a ladies watch, and I do like the simplicity.
Oh, and don’t worry about your brother. Nobody looks at guys’ watches anyway. If it becomes a competition, you won’t enjoy it. (Of course, you can get a Speedy to spite your brother! )
My old Timex appears to be well and truly dead. I called a watch guy today, who had good reviews online. He said that it’s just not possible to buy parts for it anymore. Sheesh! Don’t watchmakers make their own springs anymore?
Thanks, I’ve been and had a look. They are quite keen, especially on the pricing. They also mention an early type ST5 as a good starter watch. Do you have an opinion on that one?
I’m wearing a Seiko Chronograph Sports 150 as I type this. My Bulova, as much as I like it, sits in the drawer. And my Citizen Eco-drive, which I also love, sits broken.
Should I ever make it to Schaumburg, IL or Norcross, GA or Richardson, TX or Torrance, CA … I’ll be sure to get it fixed. And possibly ask them why they think they do so little business in the Mid-Atlantic states and New England.
If my disposable cash were somewhat lower, I might go for that loud and huge orange-faced Doxa of Dirk Pitt legend. But that’s not the kind of watch you can wear just anywhere.
If I were crazy rich and had a budget for lots of cool watches, I would buy a couple Bell & Ross watches. They are known for their aircraft-instrument-inspired design.
My current big funky watch I have is an Omega Seamaster Pro Chrono. Here’s a site with loads of pictures of this chunky watch.
It’s comfortable in the winter, but is a bit heavy to wear in summer months. It makes the Sub feel positively lightweight in comparison.
My daily watch is a TAG-Heuer Carrera.
I also have a TAG Formula 1, but I like my Carrera better.
Back in the day I had a DOXA Sub 300T like this one, but it was stolen.
Someday I want a Rolex.
You do know that the TAG watches that you have are actually better watches than anything that Rolex makes though, right? Rolex are kind of the flagship brand of swiss mechanical watches and all, but they’re not terribly accurate as time pieces, they fluctuate in the area of +6 to -4 seconds a day meaning that they’ll go off as much as 10 minutes a month, and that’s one that’s being correctly serviced by Rolex every 5 years.
That’s another fun thing, you almost HAVE to take it to Rolex to be serviced. If you use an unauthorized dealer and if they used nonstandard parts to repair anything Rolex will declare the watch a hybrid and refuse it as a counterfeit. They take this stuff really seriously.
I don’t care, I love them anyway, mechanical foibles and bizarre upkeep and all.
:smack: How could I have forgotten that one? I like it better than the Chronographe.
Very nice watch, Rick. Nice, clean design. Was that the one you were wearing last time you came up here? Or was it the other?
I’ve said this before: Rolexes aren’t ‘all that’. They’re very nice, well-designed, classic watches; but they’re living off their reputation. Once upon a time they were just another watch, though higher-end than most. Somewhere along the line they became the symbol of wealth and the flagship of ‘expensive watches’. If you had a Rolex, you’ve ‘made it’. But really, they’re ‘middle class’ watches. In the '80s and '90s it seemed everyone was wearing them. They’ve returned to the ‘middle class’. When I bought my GMT II (my first Rolex) it was a chunk of change; but it was in line with some other makes. And hey, you can buy them in malls. Nowadays they cost twice what I paid for mine. Are they trying to become a status symbol again? IMO if you’re looking for a status symbol, don’t get a Rolex. Get something exclusive.
I’m not sure how Rolex treats non-Rolex parts. I’ve heard that they won’t put non-Rolex parts back into the watch, and that they will not even replace a non-Rolex bracelet. (I asked about this a year or so ago. I have a genuine Jubilee bracelet on my GMT II, but it’s not original to the watch and that watch isn’t offered with it anymore. They had no problem with it.) I think that they don’t actually treat the watch as ‘counterfeit’, but they will replace the foreign parts with genuine ones (and charge you for them). They’re pretty anal about it.
As for accuracy, IME they are not as inaccurate as posted. Part of the process before they’re sold, and when they are overhauled, is calibrating the speed. Both of mine gain about a minute a month – not ten. Interestingly, the Sub is not a ‘certified chronograph’ model. (The ones with the date are, but I wanted a non-date one.) It’s just as accurate as the certified GMT II.
Are TAGs ‘better’? I don’t know. I’d say they’re just as accurate, though.
+6/-4 is the COSC specification. That is excellent for an automatic; I am confused as to why you consider that poor timekeeping.
ETA: In practice, I’ve never seen any of my automatics consistently gain +6, +6, +6, for example. Depending on how I rest the watch, I can make it gain or lose time so it more or less evens out over the month.
I absolutely agree, Rolex are nice watches and I love them, but if you want to be a real player in the watch game, your sights should be set no lower than the Patek Phillipe Sky Moon Tourbillon, a steal at only 1.4 million dollars. Sexy watch though.
Well better is totally subjective, but from a time telling perspective and not just a “bracelet for men” perspective the TAG Carrerra has an automatic movement, so it’s self winding and thusly stays at a full wind most of the time, meaning that it’s deviations are likely less. Of course with a full mechanical wind like a Rolex you have the ability to adjust the watch itself over the course of the day, but I personally feel that the automatics are better time keepers.
Edit- There are both manual wind and automatic Rolex of course. I just think that the TAG is more accurate.
I don’t know where this persistent belief about TAG timekeeping comes from; they’ve traditionally used off-the-shelf ETA movements like the ubiquitous and rather pedestrian Valjoux 7750 (though they are now phasing in their own). So if you want to say that about Tag, you also should say that about Longines, Breitling, Sinn, etc.
But it’s an odd assertion that that’s noticeably better than, say, Rolex Caliber 3135. They are both excellent timekeepers.
Here’s my Hamilton Automatic that I’ve had for 10 years this fall. I wear it daily and have been through numerous dirt bike crashes and a pretty nasty street bike crash and the crystal still has zero scratches.
Unfortunately, the precision has suffered. If I’m really good and take it off at night, and wind it first thing in the morning, then I usually don’t have to adjust it for a few days or more. But generally I reset it every couple days (usually drops a minute or more per day if I just wear it and never bother to wind it).
I’ve thought about sending it in for a “tune up” but we’ll see. Frankly, I just like having it on my wrist. My arm really feels funny without the weight on it.
I would totally admit that about Longines and Sinn as well, however some Breitlings (such as the B-1) use a thermocompensated quartz movement and they’re inhererently more accurate than a mechanical movement is. None of them are bad like really old watches can be, but
Maybe my Rolex watches have just been extra sloppy, my brother in law has a TAG WJF2210 and it’s almost freaky how little it changes over even a month. Not having all too many examples of high end Swiss watches around I just go by what I’ve seen. My father in law has a Rolex that keeps worse time than a drunk drummer, but I also don’t think it’s been serviced…ever.
Edit - Since you mentioned Sinn, the 556 is also on my list of watches that I’d love to own one day.
An old g/f still wears the Seiko divers watch she bought in the early-'80s. I don’t know how many straps she’s been through, but the watch keeps going. She’s never had it serviced; just replaced the battery. (As I said, my battery-powered Seiko from 1986 is still running accurately.)
Oh yeah, I really like the 556. Very unique too, I’ve never seen anyone in person with a Sinn.
Plus, as a skinny wrister, I appreciate watch manufacturers making watches under 40mm. I love Breitling but I can’t wear ANYTHING from them; it looks like I have Flavor Flav’s clock hanging off my arm.
I really only know of them from Watchtime Magazine, I’ve never even seen a Sinn for sale at a jewlers before. Of course I’ve not gone seeking one out either, but that would be something to see. You’d of course know you’re dealing with another watch nerd.
I keep coming back to the Bell and Ross watches, even though they’re almost hysterically oversized faces. The WWI shown in this picture looks like a normal watch, but it has a 45mm case. I’ve eaten dinner off of smaller plates than that. Of course these are supposed to be watches that can be read without having to bring ones arm up to ones face and all, but Jesus christ, that’s a monster. My brother gave me a Luminox he had kicking around that’s actually smaller than that, and the Luminox is like wearing a Honda Civic on your arm.
I’ve got a skinny wrist as well, and the Breigtling is about the limit for me.
Japanese department stores will have international watch days, with the various manufacturers setting up shop. It was there that I tried on a Vacheron Constantin ($100k+) and a few other very high end models.
As an experiment, I wear different watches when I do to to watch the reactions of the sales people. (Who are watching your watch, of course.)
A lot of the watches there are $25k and over so the sales people are looking to see who is really interested in watches and who is just for the show.
As for Rolex, I think they are probably good watches, but it’s hard for me to get past the image of new found cash. Here in East Asia, it seems everyone who is the president of a three-man company rushes out and buys one. (Or picks one up on the beaches of Phuket at a steep discount).
My Breitling and Baume & Mercier are both automatics. I only wear the Breitling enough to get a gauge of its accuracy, which seems reasonable.
So, I’ve bought the Sea-Gull ST-5 manual (export version) after reading on-line reviews. It seems like a stealth quality brand and I will let you know how it goes. So far, 19 Jewels, 21600 bph, baton hours and no lume. Watchuseek says these can be regulated to inside 10 seconds, so that’s what I am hoping for.
edit: like the one in post #4 but white-faced: Go to post # 4
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