So, I want to incorporate a toggle switch into a room in my house to be used as a light switch on the wall. Don’t ask why. I’m using 12 AWG indoor wiring, connected to a 20 amp circuit breaker. It will be switching the power to three recessed lights. I’m talking about the normal metal toggle switches that you see in industrial settings. Please help me put one together.
Where do I find them?
How about the cover plate?
Are there going to be any wiring problems that I’ll have to work around?
Any decent hardware store will carry them. You can drill a blank switch plate to mount them in a standard box. Be sure to check the current limit of the switch you buy. Many are only rated for an amp or two.
If you live in the sticks then go to:
and type in “toggle switches” in the search box on the left. there are 4 pages to choose from. If you are using 120 volt system then you are looking at $9 plus shipping for a SPST switch.
This is a great site for stuff and they are very efficient. I’ve ordered something Monday morning and had it delivered by Tuesday.
Connections must be made in a listed enclosure.
All equipment must be used in a fashion consistent with its listing and labeling.
If the switch is oriented vertically, and is the only point of control for this lighting circuit, down must be the ‘Off’ position.
Alright-I’ll beg the question: why do you not want to use an ordinary single pole toggle switch?
Yah, I was kinda wondering myself. I would much prefer a regular switch for indoor lights. I’m not a small toggle switch fan at all. I’ve had more than 1 fly apart and scare the bejeezers out of me.
Switches approved for lighting applications take into consideration the enormous in-rush current of tungsten lamp. These lamps draw 20 times their operating current when first turned on. If these three recessed lights are 75 watts you are looking at an in-rush of 40 amps.
You may have a reliablity problem with these switches and it may not meet code.
Have fun though…I don’t really care if your house meets code or not.
Since I’m rebuilding my victorian style house from the inside, I am assigning each room a motif as I go. This particular room is going to be the “Industrial Revolution.” I did look into time period accurate push button switches, but switch and cover will run over 30 dollars, each. Plan B is to make the light switch in this room a metal toggle switch, as realistically big as I can find.
I just realized that I forgot the most important part. I want the action to be ON-NONE-OFF. It is also going to be really simple wiring. This one switch is simply going to turn three recessed lights on or off. Do I want SPST or DPST?
One last thing. I’m not going to have to solder this, am I?
Don’t take this personally because I don’t mean it personally…
These two questions tell me that you really need to hire a professional or at least get a friend knowlegable about this stuff to help you not burn your house down.
Running wire through a wooden structure is dicey when done by a pro using the proper parts. An amateur using devices not designed for the purpose borders or negligent and you won’t get enough information on this baord to make it safe.
Find an easy to read home improvement book, then read the entire section on wiring. Then pay the extra money for the two-button push-button switches.
Or don’t, because I still don’t care if your house meets code…and to answers your questions…single pole switches for single switch lighting circuits(not allowed anymore in hallways or rooms with two entrances)…and do not solder anything, get the right parts and connect them according to the directions.
Warning:
One can spend many days researching AC vs. DC/Peak vs. Nominal loads/ Crimp vs. Solder - and still have no clue as to application of any particular switch.
Before doing anything else: Find out what kind of investigations your insurance company performs in even of a house fire. Any non-approved switch will likely invalidate your insurance.
I know of sources for industrial wiring equipment, but I am not going to point you to them - USE APPROVED DEVICES, INSTALLED AS INTENDED!
That you even thought this up is scary - what other schemes are planning?
Soldering hasn’t been an approved means of connection since the second World War, IIRC. You may be thinking of what was called a Western Union splice, and I still see it when upgrading electrical distribution systems which haven’t been touched since when Truman was in the oval office.
Your statement of ON-NONE-OFF has me doing a head scratch. Is there a difference between none and off that I’m missing? DPST is only a good option where SPST of equal ampacity per pole doesn’t cut it, but I respectfully suggest along with previous dopers that you’re in a bad spot which may get worse.
I’ve never heard of a drowning when a fellow did his own plumbing work at home. 
Be well.