Well, I’ll be certain to keep things code compliant by taking the faulty breaker to the hardware store with me. Also, I found a nice step-by-step here:
http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/elect/panel/breaker/install.htm
Do this in the daylight (or if there’s no windows near the panel have someone with a flashlight hold the light while you work) and turn off the main breaker before you take off the panel cover. Once the main is off there won’t be any live wires in the panel (unless some handy person jumped the line side of the main, I’ve seen this) so you should be at maximum safeness. I recommend this method.
Remove the breaker in question and replace the cover and turn the main back on.
Take the removed breaker to the store to make sure you get the same one so that it fits correctly in the panel.
I forget the exact linage, but I think Bryant (sp?) was bought out by Westinghouse or GE, but breakers to fit the older panels are available under the new conglomerates name…This is among, if not THE, lowest price brand, so it is pretty popular with homebuilders.
heh. I am an electrical coward. I was gonna do it that way (using a lantern) but didn’t want to mention it. Thanks!
I know that CH bought out Westinghouse, and I’m not sure of the Bryant lingeage but several different maufacturers have built their breakers and panels so that each other’s breakers will work. GE can be used in a SqD homeline panel and I think Bryants fit in there as well, so all three are basically interchangeable. As long as the AIC rating of the breaker is the same (and matches the ratings of the panel) then using a different manufacturers breaker in a different panel is no problem - as long as it fits. HomeDepot sometimes has a chart that cross references which breakers fit
into which panels. I have yet to find this nifty chart on line, of course.
Now that I think of it, it may be that Bryant breakers will fit in a Cuttler Hammer panel of the CH style, not the GHB style. Whatever it is it’s somewhat confusing and I wish I could find that chart that HD uses in their stores. Beats stocking 8 different types of breakers for service calls.
On most homes the main breaker is in the panel box. IIRC, code requires that the service entrance cable between the meter and the indoor panel be no more than 5 feet. (somewhere beween 5-8 feet, but can’t remember at the moment)
If the service entrance cable must be longer than code, than a disconnect is required at the meter outside. Most homes however, do not have this problem, and the main breaker is actually in the panel box.
If this is true in this home, turning off the main breaker will still result in hot wires coming in from the meter----the individual lugs on the various breakers may be dead, but that panel still has live wires at the main lugs and potential for harm.
In short, if the main breaker is outside the panel box and you turn it off, the panel is dead. If the main breaker is in the panel box (which is the most common arrangement) and you turn it off, the main lugs at the top of the panel are still hot. (while the individual breakers are not)
The main breaker in my case is in the box. The meter is right outside on the other side of the wall.
So, if I keep my tongue off of the main lugs I should be good to go.
Yep.
If you lick the main lugs, try to keep your tongue dry, and try not to be grounded in any way.
**vetbridge’s ** link discussed the dangers that raindog brought up that’s why I didn’t think it beared repeating, but yes, there will be two hot wires in the panel (the two biggest ones). Watch out for those, of course.
I’ll have to check the code when I get back to work about how far from the meter you can have the main disconnect if it’s located in the panel. It’s either 6 or 12 feet from recollection. We always locate them on the same wall, back to back, so it’s never an issue.
Nah. Other than the Square D QO, Cutler-Hammer CH, Wadsworth, Zinssco and (OG help you if this is what’s in your home) FPE Stab-Lok, most other panels are able to physically accept breakers manufactured by another company.
The list includes Arrow-Hart, Challenger, ITE Siemens, Crouse-Hinds, Murray, Westinghouse, Bryant, GE, Square D Homeline, Cutler-Hammer BR, and a handful of others who don’t come to mind.
I’d be interested to know if Home Despot is showing what will mechanically fit, or what brands have a UL listing for installation in another manufacturer’s panelboard.
Wow. That was easy. I wore rubber sole boots and used tools with rubber handles just in case. 
I’ll never be a demolitions expert but I was able to remove the breaker last night. It has UB INC stamped on it. So tonight I’ll stop at a local hardware store and begin my search for a replacement!
Jot down the make and model of the panel if you can find it on the door somewhere. UB INC doesn’t ring a bell and may be a generic breaker from way back. Or better yet, take a digital photo of the panel label and bring it to the hardware store. Sometimes it’s hard to match up old breakers with new ones if the new ones are in a plastic sealed package/container, not all places have breakers loose on the shelves.
Just trying to cover all bases so you don’t make three trips to the hardware store for a $13 breaker.
Well, the panel is a Federal Pacific. After driving all over last night, I finally found a plumbing/electrical shop that helped me. However, unlike every other breaker that is in the $15 to $30 range, this one set me back $90. He told me that for a little more than double that price, I could replace the whole panel with a more friendly brand. Next time I will.
I wish
The good news is that I have 220V back on, and my dryer works. Can you imagine the look on my face if I had purchased a new dryer, had it delivered, then plugged it in…? :eek:
:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
Real Federal Pacific breakers are very very bad!!!
They fail hot!
If they are real FP breakers, and not compatible ones made by someone else, replace the entire panel.
Wow. No, the breaker is compatible with the panel. The breaker I removed is a UB Inc breaker. I wonder if that is why the cost was so high?
Several companies manufactured replacement breakers for the FPE Stab-Lok, but you’re still better off getting the entire panelboard replaced.
The hardware guy is right-a new panelboard with an assortment of breakers can be had at a reasonable price. Budget some extra $ to effect the swap out.
Google FPE Stab-Lok for much reading about those lovely fire hazards.
I wonder how my home inspection guy missed this? Oh well. Yep, looks like I need to talk to an electrician.
Too bad I’m 5 States away. I do these all the time. You could expect to pay a contractor about $1,000. I’d budget about $400-600 to have a guy like me do it (on the side, qualified). Depending on the condition of all the wiring coming into the panel, ease of replacement, whether or not the old feeders from the meter will be long enough, whether or not the grounding electrodes are good, etc, etc…can vary that cost quite a bit.
Best case scenario > If it’s a straight out swap, it should take no more than 4 hours to do. That’s about $200 in labor and another $200 for the parts.
I spoke to my “electrician”, a local guy who does all sorts of plumbing/electrical/decks/etc on the side and he gave me an on-the-phone estimate of 4 or 5 hundred. My only concern is that he told me once he gets shocked all the time but that it doesn’t really bother him. My gf’s father is a retired electrician. He told me that in his entire career he was zapped once, and that was at home fixing an iron.
So, seriously…should I notify the guy who did my home inspection if for no other reason to educate him?