Viable [Copper] Pipe Patching

Factual Questions
1

I know cutting and welding/soldering a new piece on is the proper way, but I am curious.

Instead of replacing a (1/2 inch diameter copper pipe section, what are other methods to patch a small crack (not from brittling) in one, maybe 4mm wide and a centimeter across? Pipe pressure is about 10PSI.

Would that hardening plumbers epoxy do the trick assuming its potable water safe and that the line can be relieved of pressure until it hardens?

Maybe a bit of neoprene clamped tight around the crack? (this worked for a power steering hose leak for years)

What would work?

Thanks in advance for any input or ideas!

2

In a pinch, you can use a self-fusing silicone tape to stop a leak with an impressive amount of pressure.

It’s not a permanent fix; just for emergencies. You have to sweat a new section there to fix it properly or it will leak again.

3

Brazing is possible (brazing is something between low-temperature welding and high-temperature soldering).

It requires more skill and better equipment than just cutting-and-replacing, but it doesn’t require a replacement section of pipe-- for that reason it’s used to repair iregularly shpped parts, where you can’t just cut a new section in.

4

Sharkbite make a sleeve that will repair the split without solder. How to Fix Copper Pipe - Copper Pipe Leak Repair - YouTube

5

The problem with the above mentioned repairs is that they are not fool-proof … they may work most of the time but you need to consider the consequences if they do not work … usually if the repair fails you’ll just be back to square one having wasted an afternoon, just simply sweat in the new parts and you’re fine …

Be cautious, sometimes the repair that fails makes the original problem at lot worse … instead of a full day sweating in the new parts, you have three week ordeal ripping out half your wallboard …

In all cases, make absolutely sure all the parts are as clean as humanly possible … and I mean chemically clean, not one trace of copper oxide … I always keep a sheet or two of 220-grit sandpaper in my plumbing box … if the stuff works on copper, we need to make sure it’s working with just copper …

6

You can get copper glue and a piece of joiner pipe. Cut through the pipe, slip on the joiner and slide back and forth to glue in place.

7

Sandpaper is okay, but I always use old fashioned wire wool. Just don’t use the stuff that’s impregnated with detergent.

8

220 is too fine for cleaning copper pipe. You’ll end up polishing the oxide. Get a roll of emery cloth like this. It’s strong, you can tear off just enough to use and wrap it around pipe to shoeshine it, or wrap it around your little finger or a dowel to scrub the inside.

9

[blush] … the sandpaper was 120 when I threw it in … it’s 220 now …

10

I’ve used patches like this with success. Did your pipe freeze, leaving a little mouth shaped burst like in the Sharkbite video above? First, gently close the mouth back up with pliers, so that there are no jagged lips. Then slip this clamp on and tighten it up. I like this method better than plumbers epoxy or silicone tape, both of which I have had poor results with.

Pipe Repair Clamp

11

I just used one of these last week and it works.

12

Here is the method I would probably use, the first method on this video–since it doesn’t involve soldering:

13

Thanks for the replies, tips and links everyone!
Watchwolf49 and others…

See, I have no issue with sweating in a new piece, it won’t take long, but where the pipes are located is a small, very unworkable area surrounded by masonry and the pipe split( from freezing) is on a 1/2 inch diameter piece of copper supply for a sink that is pretty much in an area where only one hand can reach. No idea who built this shop, but its definitely on the cheap/incorrectly done. The way the pipes are set up and running tightly against the masonry blocks, it might be hard to wiggle and adjust them to get couplers and a section in there and be able to solder fully around it. Just looking for a contingency plan in case it may not be feasible to remove the small section. There is a drain pipe on the floor next to it and a tile and concrete floor… so if water leaks, its pretty much a mop up and no damage. Its almost as the place was made thinking pipes last forever or something, sigh

Any more ideas based on this updated information?

PastTense that looks absolutely promising, I might check that method out, still might be difficult with the lack of clearance, but there just might be enough room to tighten the compression fittings. I will look into the sharkbite fittings as well, given that I can find them and they have the right size.

14

I’ll second PastTense’s advice. That’s how I fixed a similar leak 3-4 years ago. Worked like a charm, didn’t take long, and cost less than 15 bucks. (I found copper pipe to be amazingly inexpensive). I used the compression couplers.

15

It would require de-pressurising the pipe though. If that is possible, why not replace the whole length of it?

16

Hinged Type Pipe Repair Clamp.

Keep in mind that this is only supposed to be a temporary patch until you can effect a permanent repair.

Personally I like the sharkbite kit better suggested by bob++ better.

17

That doesn’t look a whole lot simpler than just soldering in a new piece; once you’ve drained down the pipe and cut out the split section, the hard work is done.

18

I’m just curious, not being really a plumber, what kind of water supply is 10 PSI? Isn’t typical drinking water supply 40-50 PSI?

19

Soldering is a skill lots of people don’t have.

As to sharkbites:

  1. They are substantially more expensive than other types of fittings.
  2. There is mixed feeling about them among plumbing experts: they usually work but sometimes they leak.
20

So what action have you taken to prevent it from freezing again? Otherwise your repair is pretty pointless.

I’d consider cutting off that copper pipe (and the hot line, too) back near the sink and replacing them with pex lines. That would allow enough give to insert foam insulation between the masonry wall and the pipes, which should help prevent freezing in the future. (Also, pex pipes seem to withstand freezing a bit better.)