I just replaced the pressure switch again due to burned contacts.
Placing a capacitor across the terminals of some switches reduces arcing and prolongs the life of the switch.
Why aren’t pressure switches protected like this?
My guess would be because it is an extra cost that in most cases wouldn’t be needed. I replace alot of pressure switches. The contacts burning out is rarely the reason they need to be replaced. Normaly the bladder wearing out or becoming too gunked up is the cause.
How often are you needing to replace it? When I’m at a customers house if the switch is more then 5 years old I put a new one in. They are not very expensive and quick to swap out.
Other things to look at would be is your tank in good health and sized appropriately for your pump. if not your system could have too short a cycle so the switch turns on and off more frequently then is healthy.
Another thing to consider is it the right switch for the load? For larger pumps I use heavy duty switches that wouldn’t be available at a home improvement store.
Another possibility is a defective check valve. That will cause rapid/short cycling of the well pump. There’s something else contributory-I’m in this house 11 years, and still using the pressure switch that was here at purchase. Which will fail tonight, now that I said something.
I replace them two or three times a year. I used to file the contacts with a dremel, but they don’t last as long.
The tank is roughly 30" high with a diameter of 12" Part of the line isn’t buried, so I run the pump a lot if the twmperature is below freezing.
I didn’t have to replace the switch as often with previous pumps and a very small tank, so maybe it may not be a heavy duty switch. 30-50 PSI, no current rating on the switch. Made in Mexico, bought at a hardware store. The pump has a 1/2 HP motor. Do I buy heavy duty switches at a plumbing supply shop?
Thanks.
Quality of switch may be the issue. Install a Square D or equivalent name brand switch, properly sized for the HP of your pump motor. Assuming no other problems, you should be good to go.
Replaced that this year, too. The pump was continually cycling on and off. I pulled the feed pipe up and the foot valve appeared to have a hunk bitten out of it by the Loch Ness Monster. Another $20.00 from the above hardware store. All is still well at the other end of the pipe. 
If you have an amprobe check what the pump is drawing at the switch. The pump could have issues and is pulling too much current.
I’d try another brand switch. I use primarily square D. They do manufacture cheaper switches for some retailers, so the brand name doesn’t nessesarily mean quality. You can get a good idea by just looking at them. Better switches have more metal to them so look beefier. If it comes in a blister pack so you can’t open it up to look I wouldn’t recomend it.
With a 1/2 HP pump you wouldn’t need a heavier switch. If you want one anyhow, depending on the nature of the plumbing supply shop they may or may not have them. Places that are also major pump suppliers should have them. I buy mine from a place that only carries pumps, pressure tanks and related accessories.
If you ever need to replace the tank I’d recomend a size larger. Sounds like you have a WX202 or similar. Which is enough for a 1/2hp pump. I rarely use tanks smaller then a 203. The cost difference is not much and it does alot for the life of the pump.
Thanks, I’ll look for another brand of switch.
I recently had my well water pump replaced. The guy who did the work noticed that the tank had zero air pressure. I’d never heard of, or thought about, air pressure in the water tank. He explained that proper air pressure keeps the pump from cycling too quickly, or often, by providing a buffer. Not being an expert, I’m not even sure this applies. Perhaps someone else here can tell you if a lack of air pressure in the tank may be adding to the wear and tear on your switch.
Water is an incompressable fluid. Air, on the other hand, is quite easily compressed, like blowing up a balloon. Water is pumped into the tank from the bottom, compressing the air in the top. It is this compressed ait that pushes water out of the tank to your sink. Pumps have pressure switches that compress the air, in my case, to 50 PSI and don’t turn on again until the pressure drops to 20 PSI. Some tanks have a “captive bag” like a balloon that holds the air.
Hey, I don’t mean to hijack, but the answer may already have been found. I have a question about the air pressure in the bladder tank thingy.
I need to top up my air pressure maybe every couple of months or, well the pump cycles too much, and the water pressure is not good. I don’t think the tank itself could be leaking air, or else this would happen way more frequently? Or not?
- Is this normal?
- Could it be the tank?
- Could something else in the system be causing this? Water softener running out of salt???
Thanks!
In re the tank leaking air, I just discovered my frequently-needing-air tank had a leaky valve stem - the little think in the fill tube that lets air in and (hopefully) not out. I put a valve stem cover on it - like you get at an auto parts store. That fixed it.
If that isn’t it, I think the flexible diaphragm is the likliest problem. The air is getting dissolved in your water. Dunno if you can replace the diaphragm or just have to replace the tank - beats me how you’d get one out.
Went by the hardware store today. The switches I’m buying are Square-D.
That is not a standard preset for a switch. Are you adjusting it to that? A 20 psi variation is the norm. 30/50 or 40/60 the most standard. If your happy with that much variation you could stick with it. That is a pretty noticable drop when showering or doing dishes so most people wouldn’t like it.
To adjust a pressure switch, use a 3/8 nut driver. The big screw adjusts starting pressure the little one adjusts range. You tighten or loosen the big one till the pump starts where you want it then tighten or loosen the little one till it stops where you want it. On new switches set it about three pounds over because the springs take a week or two to break in and will loosen up.
There are two basic styles of tanks, Diaphragm and non-diaphragm.
A non-diaphragm tank is basically a cylinder with water on the bottom and air in the top. Many have a plastic float to help limit air to water contact. These tanks require the air be recharges about once a year. The air pressure is typically lost because some of the air is absorbed into the water.
Diaphragm tanks have a balloon in the bottom of the tank the water is forced into. The rest of the tank contains air. Since there is no direct water to air contact this style of tank does not loose air regularly. Typically you’d only need to add air every 8-10 years.
That said.
Yes the tank could be leaking air, but tanks typical start leaking and the problem escalates rapidly, so if its been on going for a while I’d rule it out.
That is not normal.
Yes it is a problem with the tank. Like another poster mentioned check the air valve. The simple test is take the cap off it spit on it and look for it bubbling. If it’s leaking put a plastic air valve cap on it. That is a 25 cent solution that solves the problem for years. I’ve had a number of customers call me out to find this to be the problem.
If a diaphragm leaks the tank needs to be replaced there is no fixing them.
On a non-diaphragm tank if you run the tank completely out of water you will then start draining the air too. This can happen if you can run water a lot faster than the pump can pump it(not likely with a healthy pump). You run the water when there is a power outage or the pressure switch is not working or very poorly set.
A water softener has very little to do with the pump and pressure tank. If it runs out salt you should add salt then make sure it regenerates enough make up for any missed regenerations.
boytyperanma I entrust you as plumbus God from this point henceforth.
You make great points.
I actually did the “spit” test on the valve; ain’t the culprit.
Could room temperature variations (in the 5 to 10 C range) affect anything? 'Cause it’s in the basement and all 4 seasons come in to play for ambient temperature swings. ??? (Perhaps coinciding with my refill needs every few months.)
Do I understand this to mean that you do not have a well pump, and instead have a two pipe system?
No, it’s a shallow well pump with a twelve foot 1" feedpipe. There is a foot valve on the bottom of the feedpipe lest the pump lose it’s prime when it shuts off.
Entrusting me as the plumbus God might be dangerous to you. I’m not a plumber. I only get the water as far as the main shut off, beyond that is someone elses problem.
Temperature could have an effect but it wouldn’t have the impact your seeing.
I’m assuming you have a non-diaphram tank at this point. In your case it may not have a float or the float is damaged. In theory the water and air being completly unseparated would increase the rate at which the air can be absorbed. Maybe the tank have a very slow air leak somewhere besides the valve stem. I can’t tell you very much more without checking it out myself. I’m thinking a new tank might be in your future. As long as adding air every few months gets you by I wouldn’t worry too much about it. Just keep replacing the tank on your to do list.
Some clarifications on types of pumps:
If it gets water from the well it is a well pump.
Pumps that are in the well are submersable pumps. They are the most efficiant because they are pushing the water up and 100 percent of the water goes into your system. In applications where they can be used I recomend them over jet pumps. These are not to be confused with sump pumps, the type you use to remove water from your basement
Pumps that are not in the well are typicaly Jet pumps. This style of pump creates suction to pull the water up. They us a large percentage of the water they are moving to create the suction, as little as 25% of the water could be going into the system. These are divided into two types shallow well and deep well. Both styles have a jet. A Jet is a venturi.
On a shallow well jet pump the jet is attached the the pump housing, so only one pipe needs to go down into the well. These can only pull to depths of about 50 feet.
On a deep well jet, two pipes go down into the well one to feed the jet and the other to sends water up. After the jet is a tail pipe this is typicaly 30 feet.