What exactly does bad gas [gas that has sat for a while] do to an older vehicle?

As I have posted before - this ought to be a blog by now - I have a 1982 Jeep J-20 and am trying to get it back to perfect working order, and I know I am close! Re-built the carburetor, changed all the lines, all the belts, and most of the hoses. So now, it fires right up, and I can drive it for about 5 miles…then it starts choking again and just about dies. I put 5 gallons of brand new fuel into the tank which had about 1\4 tank of bad gas into it. Now I am thinking the bad gas is mucking up the fuel filter and when it runs through the fuel pump it’s further mucking it up and then clogging the carb…Could this be true?

I do not know if there is rust in the tank, I certainly hope not - but the local mechanic [the one closest to me] does not have the facility to flush it out - but they can siphon it out and replace the gas…I don’t even know if that would work? So what the heck do I do? If I run it out there may still be gunk in it. Or will running it out and replacing with all brand new gas be the best bet?

Inquiring minds want to know :slight_smile:

You could easily have had water in the tank.

“bad gas” can mean anything from varnish from evaporation to bio contamination that creates an acid residue which in turn destroys parts.

The old gasoline has lost some of the more volatile contents, and some new chemicals can get created that are more likely to clog up fuel filters and carbs. A substantial amount of water may have collected in the tank as well. After running for a while, enough water can get mixed into the good fuel to cause a problem. Remove the fuel filter, which in many cars is a way to drain the fuel tank, and replace it. Since the carb is rebuilt is shouldn’t be a big problem, but spray in some carb cleaner for good measure. Add some white gas in case water is the problem. The water stays at the bottom of the tank below the fuel line, so to fully get rid of it you need to drop the tank to get rid of it completely. But almost every tank has a small amount of water at the bottom, so that is probably not a real problem.

White Gas? You mean denatured alcohol?

White gas is another name for what is commonly sold as Coleman Lantern Fuel. At least it used to be, until Coleman changed their lanterns over to use mini propane tanks.

It’s usually naphtha. Denatured alcohol has additives to make you sick so you can’t drink it and enjoy yourself.

I have only “anecdata” to provide, but I have resurrected a few old cars that sat with old gas in the 5-10 year range and I’ve always been able to bring them back to life merely by diluting the old gas. They may not run that great at first as they burn off the old stuff, but you just keep topping it off with fresh gas and it’ll eventually be golden. I will say that the symptoms you describe don’t exactly sound like what old gas does in my experience. What I usually find happens is that the car will be very hard-starting and will tend to cut out a lot when you stomp on the gas.

How old is this old gas? If it’s just a few years old, it shouldn’t have caused any problems that won’t work themselves out with fresh gas-- the real nasty varnish issues usually don’t arise until the cars’ been sitting for a decade at least.

Oh, though I did think of one thing-- you’ve got one of those external-mounted electric fuel pumps right? Water in the fuel can be hell on those things, and the symptoms you’re describing could be very consistent with a failing electric fuel pump. Have you fully determined that your stalling problem is fuel related?

I have nothing to add besides what has been said above , but I just have to note:

looked dirty at first glance. :wink:

BTW…BOOYAH for having a Full Size Jeep!

Coleman fuel, available at Wal-Mart, in the camping section. Do NOT use denatured alcohol.

ETA: You could also use what’s called “VM&P Naptha”, available from a hardware store. Pretty much the same thing.

Funny you should mention that. A few summers ago I took a '72 Ford out of storage, started it up (after a little bit of work) and drove it around all day on the gas that had been sitting in it for 12 years. No one ever believes me. Also, no special precautions were taken when it was parked and nothing was done to the gas to get it going again other then a little bit of starting fluid in the carb.

You’ll have to make up a better story than that. I don’t believe a 72 Ford would start without problems, with fresh gas, in 72.

72 Fords wouldn’t start in 72, fresh off the lot. I, too, find the story hard to believe. :smiley:

Heet](http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/heet/default.aspx). Car will run like shit as it burns the alky/water mix, so don’t overload the gas in your tank or take it on dates or too far out of town before you’ve burnt the remnant off. In fact, burn the remnant off BEFORE the date. This is the voice of sad experience, because there are times your date WANTS to get to the dance, and your crappy car won’t change it. :smiley:

We own a 90 Ford, barely removed :frowning: from a 72, and in late spring and summer days it starts “fine,” which is barely surprising to owners of 70s and 80s (and '90s) and, I fear, unfathomable, to older owners. It was a great price. She should, at 58, be a better winter driver. Her uncle Tom taught her on the icy slopes of Houghton, Michigan (with a stick), but since then she has depended on me, even with the autos.

Sorry, dear, but you had either relearn (again, note Houghton) to drive a stick or you learn how to drive a land yacht in snow. I am a frustrated rally driver so I can have fun with either.

My advice would be to drop the fuel tank and remove as much of the old gas as possible, then blow it out with compressed air to insure that it’s dry and free of “loose” debris. If a tank has been sitting empty for a long time, they will sometimes develop rust on the interior of the tank walls. If it utilizes an internal fuel pump, you might want to think about removeing it and cleaning the “sock” filter that is on the pickup tube, inside the tank.

FWIW… Here’s my anecdotal “horror story”, about “bad gas”. :eek:
I purchased a Chevrolet van (a '95, 1/2 ton with a 5.0 liter [327 c.i.] gas engine) a few years back. The vehicle had been wrecked and incurred some minor damage, (Fender, hood, grill and bumper.) but other than that, it was in fairly good, mechanical order. Hell, the radiator didn’t even leak!:smiley: The vehicle had been “sitting” for a number of years (The owner didn’t want to put any money into it for the body repair.)

One of the consequences of sitting for an extended period of time, was that the fuel pump had quit working. So I siphoned out as much fuel as I could, (about 5-6 gallons) dropped the tank, replaced the fuel pump and put 'er back together.:slight_smile:
What with gas being as costly as it is/was, (And, the fact that it smelled alright, to me!;)) I poured the gas that I had siphoned out, right back into it. After a few squirts of “starting fluid”, it started right up. (Albeit, it was running a little rough and smoking some.:D)
After driving it around for a good while, the motor smoothed out and it ceased to smoke, almost entirely.
The next day when I started it, the engine made a “funny” sound, and it started running very rough, like it had a miss-fire or a fouled plug.:confused:
After I checked all that I knew to check, (replaced plugs and wires) it still wasn’t running right. I called a mechanic friend, he came over and we ascertained that one cylinder didn’t have any compression, at all.
So we pulled the intake manifold and the heads off of it, (Sure glad it wasn’t fuel injected!) and found that it had a bent push rod, and the valve had a bent stem, which caused it to stick open.
So, I took the heads to a local machine shop that specialized in that sort of work, to be rebuilt. When I set them up on the counter, the old guy that ran the place immediately said, “You got some bad gas.” “I’ll have 'em ready for you in a day or so, but you should drain and clean your gas tank, before you put them back on and start it again.” I asked him what had caused him to think that, that was the problem. :dubious: He said that he could smell the “bad gas”, and the reason that it was the problem was due to the old gas depositing a layer of “varnish” on to the push rods and valve stems. While it was running initially, there wasn’t any problem, but as soon as I turned the engine off and it cooled down, the varnish congealed and hardened. :confused:
Well, I thought that I was a little bit smarter,*** than I actually***, was! :rolleyes: Sooooo… I put it back together, without following his advice!
Care to take a guess of what the consequences were, of not listening to him??? :smack:

[SIZE=“5”]He didn’t act real smug, when I brought them back the second time!:stuck_out_tongue: And he even gave me a discount, for having the balls to bring them back![/SIZE]:wink:

So… I take it, you’re a “Chevy man”, now? :smiley:

But what will it do to the carburetor? That looks like it is for fuel injected cars.

Also, perhaps dumb question, but can I let this thing run out of fuel in the driveway? Then go put better gas in it?

New fuel pump, and an additional in-line fuel filter put in today…with a mix of less than a 1/4 bad gas and 5 gallons new gas I’ll be crossing my fingers.

That’s what I came in to say. I’m going to start working this in to my conversations.

Hoping you have good luck with that. :slight_smile: