Thanks! I gotta check that out. I already am a proponent of ear plugs as I already did enough damage to my hearing in my youth, but they can be a pain in the ass if you’re on and off the bike a lot. Not to mention the fact that my dog will eat them if he can find them. :eek:
Depends on the hole and the geometry of the bike. And -to a greater extent- what *you *do in the milliseconds before you hit the hole. Also, the safest part of any bike is the nut between the seat and the handlebars. More-specifically, it’s your eyes and brain. I wouldn’t expect a bike to grant any inherent “safety”. Quite the contrary… they offer very little safety (overlooking ABS and traction control).
You’ll be happier with a smaller machine. A smaller bike is easier to control, and that’s what’s most important to a beginner who is still learning. I didn’t read how heavy you are, but I’d recommend something around 500cc.
Get out there and ride some miles on a mid-size (or smaller) machine. Then you’ll be better-informed to make your next purchase.
I went down a road at night that I should have avoided. It was used by industrial equipment and pot holes were the least of the problems. While avoiding a pot hole I ended up driving into/out of a moon crater. The front end went one way and the rear wheel went the other. In the process of stabilizing the bike I put my foot down. Ended up breaking it. Had it been an 800 lb bike it would have been that much more force against my foot and I could easily have dumped the bike in the process.
There are more things to consider than just weight. But weight is only your friend going straight and level over a bump. Beyond that, it’s that much more mass to deal with in maneuvering or stopping the bike.
The OP was last here in post #32 2 days ago. I wonder if he’s still participating here? Lots of good stuff from lots of experienced riders has been posted since then.
I’m not even sure I’d go that far regarding weight.
Of all the bikes I’ve ever ridden, if I had to pick one to hit bumps with, it would be my old KTM 690 SMC. Weighed less than 300 pounds. But it had 10 inches of travel front and rear and a fantastic suspension. Not only did bumps not bother it, it was fine with stairs, curbs, decorative railroad ties, whatever.
The worst: any of the liter+ sport bikes I’ve ridden. Maybe the Panigale. There’s a reason that all those big sport bikes with small rake and trail figures come with steering dampers now.
Even if OP never sees it, I’ll add this.
30+ years of riding. Currently ride a heavy BMW K1100RS sport touring bike. Stupid amount of power, and heavy. It is a perfect example of a HORRIBLE bike for a newbie. Too much power, a touchy throttle, and it carries a lot of weight up high.
For my friends who ask about starting to ride, My recommendations are these:
[ul]
[li]Less than 500cc, which usually equals less than 40 HP or so.[/li][li]Something you can sit on and comfortably flat foot both feet when sitting in the saddle, something like a Virago 250[/li][li]Something without a lot of expensive plastic bodywork, because you WILL drop it in a parking lot.[/li][li]Buy used, do NOT buy a new bike for your first bike, see bullet above about dropping the bike.[/li][li]Take the MSF course, they don’t mind if you drop THEIR bike.[/li][li]Spend as much on your protective gear as you do your first bike.[/li][/ul]
Keeping this list in mind, I helped a neighbor get into riding a few years back, He found a used Ninja 250 on Craigslist for $1100. Bought a really good quality jacket, overpants, boots, and gloves. Signed up for the MSF and did well. Sold the Ninja a year later for (wait for it) $1100, and bought a 2 year old Triumph Bonneville. Now uses it to commute to work three seasons out of the year.
This^
Any other piece of advice is going to be adding to the clusterflick. If there was a right answer to this question, there wouldn’t be a years-long running debate.
The only other piece of advice I would offer would be: Don’t fixate on engine displacements too much. They’re not a perfect indicator of the bike’s abilities or intended use.
For the record; my first street bike was a 175 Yamaha enduro, and my current street bike is a Suzuki SV650S. Both are acceptable starter bikes.
I basically agree with this except for the engine size. my 4 cylinder 650 puts out 60 hp. But it’s a high revving bike. You have to hit 3000 rpm before the bike even knows it’s running. Very docile at low RPM’s.
I would expect a low revving V twin to have more hp and torque at the bottom end where it’s more likely to cause trouble for a beginner. Not only was my bike easy to learn on but it didn’t take much to grow into it without scaring the bejeezers out of me.
When learning to ride the new rider is building new muscle memory. Until that muscle memory is ingrained, more HP often gets the new rider into trouble, and larger, heavier bikes take longer to stop.
I recommend to the OP to start by taking the MSF BRC class. Maybe don’t buy a bike just yet and be ready to make the purchase soon after completing the course. Have all the gear, have cash ready to go.
Some of my students, after taking the course, decide that motorcycling is not for them, not yet anyway. MSF BRC is a good way to get the basic skills. Any accredited safety course will work but be wary of those funded by manufacturers - they often are trying to sell you their product. Conflict of interest.
Once you complete MSF BRC you are ready for more practice of the exercises you just learned. Practice in quiet uncongested areas. You aren’t generally ready for crowded busy streets.
One fact that is clear by the data (IIHS, Harry Hurt’s report) is that most motorcycle accidents are single-vehicle accidents. No other car or bike or pedestrian or dog darting out was involved. The rider could not handle the situation. Inexperience. Hitting that pothole that should have been avoided. Taking a curve too fast for the rider’s skill, although the bike with a skilled rider could easily negotiate that curve. Etc. The data is quite clear on this.
I’ve been reading but not commenting. The wait time to get into the classes to get a license are long, I won’t be able to actually get a bike until September at the earliest because that is the earliest I will have the license.
What? You don’t need a license to ride a motorcycle. You need a permit. I know a number of people who went YEARS without getting the endorsement. The permit limits you to daytime riding, no passengers, and you must wear a helmet. I went to the license bureau and read their pamphlet on motorcycles for 20 minutes and took the test. There’s some tricky stuff you need to read up on before taking it blind.
Go forth and buy a decent starter bike. I’ve seen bikes like what I’ve described earlier the thread in cycle shops for less than $3000. These are the bikes you want to risk scratching up.
The classes serve 2 purposes, they give you structured useful lessons from experienced rider/instructors on how to ride, and upon successful completion they automatically earn you an endorsement. You’re done with the license part of it but you’re not even CLOSE to learning how to ride properly. That’s done on your own and it takes thousands of miles of riding to gain proficiency.
To summarize, the license is just certification to learn how to ride.
Some states have restrictions on permits.
In Ohio you must also wear a helmet with a permit and for a year after getting the license.
I hate you. Not really. Husky was the one. Didn’t Malcom Smith ride Huskys?
I did have a Yamaha 490. It was like riding a scared rabbit. Man it was fast. But if you manage to control it, what a ride. (sorry to hi-jack or scare the OP, the 490 was a dirt bike)
I started with a Kawasaki Vulcan 800. It was a good starter bike, although slightly heavy for a beginner. Kawasaki has replaced the 800 w/ the 900, which rides slight smoother (due to extra weight). Not a bad bike to learn on, but perhaps not the best.
I’ll second the notion that the first bike should be used. As was pointed out, there’s a great risk of dropping the bike while learning. Bikes as it is lose their value pretty quickly. Why put down a lot of money for something that you may not keep long & will likely damage?
Another reason to go used is that you’ll rather quickly outgrow the bike as you become more experienced. Again, why spend a lot of money on something that you’ll outgrow?
Lastly, I think comfort has a lot more to do with things other than the size & weight. Sure, a heavier cruiser will provide a smoother ride. But I found that the #1 factor in comfort on long rides was the seat. Kawasaki stock seats aren’t that comfortable, and can induce great tailbone pain after an hour of riding. It made a world of difference to get a Mustang aftermarket seat (especially w/ a backrest) for long rides.
The position of your hands & back will also have an effect on your comfort level. You might have to get taller/longer handlebars that move the grips in or out. It’s probably quite rare for a rider to buy a bike with the handlebars exactly how they like them.
My 800 came with footpegs. It’s a lot more comfortable to have floorboards to rest your feet & legs. And if you find yourself hopping on the bike after a long period of standing you’ll appreciate the foot massage!
For long rides a throttle assist device can give your hand & arm a little rest by not having to grip the throttle. Holding the throttle open w/ just your palm is a lot easier to do for long periods than gripping the throttle with your hand.
So there’s some customization to be done after you decide on a bike if you really want to be comfortable. Again, why spend money on customizations (many are bike-specific) on a bike that you may not be keeping for long?
Go used & small on your first bike.
I’d also like to add that with a motorcycle the old saying of “don’t assume anything about other drivers” is incorrect. One should always assume that other drivers will do the absolute stupidest thing possible at all times. Because the sad truth is that most of the time that’s what they’ll do. I’ve seen it time & again.
A good size motorcycle for a beginner is one you’re comfortable on, the engine size makes up for a portion of that but the actual size of the bike makes up a bigger portion. They come in all sizes, like we do, but your height, inside leg measurement, arm length and core strength will fit better to some bikes than others.
I’d advise going on some bike forums and asking around, going to a few dealerships and talking with anyone there, and do a lot of research. You’ll eventually have a comfortable ride that you feel confident on, which will help you think clearly when the inevitable ‘close call’ comes around. I very much doubt any riders’ close calls have come from potholes or cross winds, they’re usually because of idiot cagers, so I’d put the greater weight of the bike being an advantage low down on your priorities. I’d put higher on the list good brakes, high visibility, cheap maintenance, easy to resell, and cheap to repair if you put it down.
And get a decent helmet and gloves! Then look into a reinforced jacket, leather jeans and good boots *specifically *made for biking. When I ride it’s ATGATT 
Don’t be a SQUID.
My daughter’s boyfriend just bought a Ninja 250 and I took it for a little spin around the block. It’s noisy but the balance and geometry are surprisingly like riding a bigger bike except for the relatively low power. I had never actually ridden a bike that small; my first was a Honda CB650. The 250 would be a great around-town bike but not good for extended trips or the highway.
The big question is what kind of riding do you want to do.
There is a long-held saying in motorcycling that it’s a lot more fun to go fast on a smaller bike than on a bigger bike. Of course you can go faster on a bigger bike than you can on a smaller bike, but when you go fast on a smaller bike, it is a lot more fun. It is true, and I invite riders to try it.
And, as JustinC says, ATGATT. (All The Gear, All The Time)
Other sayings that are true:
You dress for the fall, not for the ride.
Open helmet usually means a closed casket.
Loud pipes do not save lives. (They annoy the public and give our sport a bad name.)
I don’t know about going fast on a small bike but I didn’t like the 250’s in the training class AT ALL. I don’t see any upside to them if the intent is to ride anything other than a dirt bike. They weren’t any easier to ride than my CB650. If you have a farm and want a dirt bike then buy a dirt bike. If you’re going to ride it on the street than buy something that isn’t going to bore you a month later.