I’ve been through a few hurricanes in Texas and Hong Kong. My great-aunt’s house and worldly possessions were totally wiped out in Dominica in 1979 by hurricane David, so I know they’re not a laughing matter, but the following is my recollection of the most entertaining one I’ve been in.
Hong Kong, August 20, 1993 (some details may be fuzzy). Coincidentally, we’ve taken day off work, and a bunch of us are hanging out drinking beer on Hong Kong island. The day started with typhoon signal 1 (meaning: “typhoon within 800 km”). Typhoon signal 3 (meaning: “we’re going to get the edge of the winds at least”) is raised just before lunch, then later, sitting in a pub after having just ordered food, the staff come to tell us that we can’t eat: the pub is being shut as it’s gone to signal 8 (meaning: “holy shit, it’s coming this way!”), and we have to leave. The city closes down officially with a couple of hours’ notice. I am living on Lamma Island south of Hong Kong, and we have about 30 minutes to get to the ferry pier to grab the last boat before shutdown. We rush to the supermarket shouting “typhoon party!”, stock up on slabs of beer, then run and get on the last ferry with seconds to spare. The wind is whipping up strongly now, and the normally flat harbour is choppy. I take pictures of my female friends on the ferry hidden by their hair, blown horizontally over their faces.
We arrive at the island pier after about an hour of rolling and yawing. The docking is rather worrying, but skilfully executed, and the gangplank bucks up and down. Glad to be on terra firma, and still hungry, we discover to our surprise that a local pub/restaurant is still open, and the top storey has a view of the harbour. We take our seats facing the big panoramic windows, order curry and beer, and watch the extraordinary show of vast container ships being tipped on their ends at 45 degree plus by the waves, which have increased in size dramatically over the past few minutes. As we’re enjoying another round of beers, a container ship breaks loose from its moorings. Soon, a police launch hoves into view, hidden every couple of seconds by the heaving harbour. Then a huge wave completely covers the launch, and we gasp, thinking it’s been lost. After seconds that seem like hours, from the middle of the next wave, the launch pops out like a champagne cork. It seems these things are hermetically sealed. The brave - or foolhardy - cops manage to get a line onto the ship, and reattach it to one of the permanent mooring buoys. We are amazed. A couple of years earlier such a ship had broken free and ended up on one of the island’s beaches, towering over the jungle like an incongruous fifteen-storey building.
We pay and leave, and head back to the apartment, now fighting our way into the wind and driving sand and grit. Once back in the apartment, we fill containers with water and discuss which room to shelter in if needed (the bathroom as it only has one small window). If it gets worse we should open the windows to let the wind rush through, since keeping the place sealed can cause the windows on the opposite side of the building to the wind to get sucked out by the pressure differential.
We watch with trepidation as a pile of corrugated iron sheets on top of a neighbouring building is flung, sheet by sheet, like deadly frisbees down the street, hoping that nobody is walking there, as they could easily be decapitated. There’s no rain yet, but the wind is now howling from our left. As it passes between two hills, it twists down onto the bay into a tornado, and a line of waterspouts advance like infantry, five or six at a time, across the bay until they make landfall on the hill opposite and disperse. Then the rain starts. It’s being driven against the windows in a sheet. The wind roars, and the rain gushes, and the windows shake, and we sit drinking beer.
After about an hour of this, the wind starts to relent. The storm is retreating - it wasn’t a direct hit. Eventually we decide to see what the damage is, and walk down our nearest beach in the bucketing warm rain, soaked to the skin. We pick our way through the jungle path, stepping over fallen trees. Our nearest beach has disappeared. All the sand has been sucked out to sea, leaving just the bedrock.
At the next beach, Hung Shing Ye, the sand is there, and so are the surfers: normally Hong Kong provides nothing in the way of waves, but the typhoon has created ideal body-boarding conditions. I get in and body surf a few waves. Then there’s a commotion at the far side of the beach. Something has been washed ashore. It’s a black plastic sack that stinks, and the guy who picked it up says it feels like there’s a human head in there. A triad assassination exposed by the typhoon, is the speculation. Someone runs to the nearby police station, and two cops turn up and remove the bag.
Night falls and the rain continues, and the restaurants reopen, and the entire island is out partying in the rain.
A few years ago, after I’d left, Hong Kong raised the signal 10 (meaning: direct hit). Several people died in landslides in the territory, and Lamma Island was badly hit. I visited a few weeks later, and large patches of jungle had been ripped out, and several small Hakkanese farms had been devastated.
Incidentally, we heard later that the cops made the resident rookie open the bag. The stench was overpowering. He gingerly pulled the plastic back to find…