And is there anything similarly sized that is more resistant to water? It’s in a high humidity environment and prone to corrosion.
And if that direct link to the photo doesn’t work, scroll down to “For all generations, once you have the white connectors in hand, gently tug on the wires from both sides of the white connectors to ensure the connectors are snug when attached.”
I can’t search right now but look for combinations of [Molex battery connector].
Are you just worried about their choice in BOM*, or do you currently have issues with that connector?
Here’s an example drilled down at McMaster-Carr. I guessed at wire gauge and voltage, but you can play with the filter if I guessed wrong.
That’s no-kidding waterproof. I think it’s even submersible.
BTW, I’m sure you know that tampering with that (even to improve it) would void your warranty.
*Bill of Materials, the parts they chose for their product
Thank you, @jnglmassiv , @gnoitall .
The background is that the controls, sensors, and pump for this hydroponic system are all housed in a lid that sits on the water tank and that supports the grow columns and lights. If this connector breaks, the company’s solution is to replace the entire (expensive) lid. On their dime if still under warranty. On mine if not. Lid number three is in the mail. I’d like to fix lids numbers one and two so I have backups. So no warranty issues there.
They’ve since changed their design, I believe in part to solve this very problem, but the new lid isn’t compatible with the rest of my system.
I suspect I already know the answer, but to clarify, do you need this to be a connector or would a fixed connection do?
I’m a fan of dielectric grease to help protect electrical connections from harsh environmental conditions:
Easy disconnect makes cleaning the pump easier but I could just splice and shrink tube it.
Thanks. I think I’d want something food-safe. Google tells me this exists.
It would be permanent but could you just coat the connection in a few layers of epoxy?
Some people use Vaseline (which gross as it sounds is food-safe) instead of dielectric grease. I don’t know its electrical properties, but I see it discussed frequently.
If it were mine to hack, I’d open it to expose the other ends of the wire pairs in your photo, the parts we can’t see. They probably soldered to circuit boards, though there might be connectors. Replace the wire pairs with a straight section of cable at least a few feet long since it’s probably not the last time you’ll be … making improvements. Even some speaker cable or lamp cord will be better than the flimsy and rusty originals. You can reuse the ferrite bead.
Even better than epoxy, vaseline, or dielectric grease is adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing.
It’s even available in sizes big enough to cover the connector, and you can cut it open with a razor knife if you ever need to get at the connection:
e.g. -
https://www.amazon.com/Inside-Diameter-Shrink-Tubing-Adhesive/dp/B08417Y9RH/
(This may not be large enough - check before ordering).
I was trying to shotgun what kind of diameter and shrink ratio would be needed to do a good job on both the connector and the wires that feed it.
Think 3:1 would do it?
I’ve built up a layer or three of smaller diameter tubing to thicken the wires before covering the whole mess with shrink tubing. That can work, but I never felt 100% confident in it over the long term.
Here’s what I do:
Get a piece big enough to fit the entire connector. Make it long enough to cover the entrance and exit wires. Then, immediately after you shrink it down, squish the piece covering the wires with a flat-jawed plier (our your fingers, if you are tough). Don’t squeeze the section directly over the wires, but rather pinch the area on either side. The glue will rapidly harden and it will make a water-tight seal.
Doe this make sense?
I think so. You’re sacrificing round and maybe gappy for flat and fully closed, right?
It’s more a hybrid shrink+crimp than an textbook heat shrink application, if I got you right.
ETA: in cross section …
-O-
You are correct, Sir!