What sort of paint sticks to that stuff they make tackle boxes out of?

[Terrifel]

I have been asked to paint a design on a largish container for a friend who wants to use it to cart educational materials around in. It’s effectively an overlarge fishing tackle box on wheels, made out of durable yet flexible opaque material…not the hard, brittle PVC, but the other stuff…whatever it is…rubberized plastic?..anyway, the stuff that no paint seems to stick to. I’ve tried latex acrylic and enamel acrylic so far, but the stuff just seems to peel right off with the slightest scratch. If I go to the trouble of painting little happy critters all over this box, they had better last longer than that. I’m hoping someone has tried to paint their name on their fishing gear and can offer a useful tip, so I don’t have to go through every type of paint in the hardware store.

[Mr.Blue_Sky]

I’ve been seeing commercials for a new paint made by Krylon which claims to be able to stick to any plastic.

I haven’t tried it, though.

[astro]

I thik the material you are referring to is polyethyene.

See Painting a plastic (polyethylene) motorcycle gas tank

Albout halfway down the thread someone comes who (seemingly) knows that they are talking about -

There are two issues involved in painting polyethylene. One is to “activate” or “modify” the surface chemically to allow wet out and adhesion. In industry there are numerous methods used to treat the surface of polyethylene before bonding or painting. The best are too hazardous for a small shop or garage since the chemicals involved are actually dangerous. Reasonable bond strength - enough for paint - can be achieved with very light surface roughening using detergent water and fine wet-or-dry sand paper. This must be followed by careful flame treatment. An oxygen rich flam is best and the flame must not be allowed to melt or glaze the surface. Instead, the farthest tip of the flame only should contact the surface and then only for a brief fraction of a microsecond. The flame must be kept quickly moving at all times. Every square inch of the surface must be touched ever so briefly by the farthest tip of the flame in this way. After some cooling, the surface can be retreated is in doubt - but I would suggest running the flame in a cross direction to the initial hit. The surface can be tested with super clean distilled water. Apply a single drop with a very clean eye dropper. On an untreated tank, the drop will bead up like on a well waxed car. No adhesion. If properly surface modified, the drop will actual cling to the surface and spread out to be at least twice as wide as it is high. This gives adequate adhesion for most applications.

The second issue is to use a paint compatible with the flexibility of polyethylene. I suggest using a flexibilized paint or adding a flexibilizer as is customary for flexible bumpers. All the major paint suppliers offer this. Of course, a flexibilized clear coat can be put on top.

As to priming - I feel it just interferes with flexible performance and adds extra work. If the tank needs scratches or dings filled in this may be possible if you can find a sufficiently flexible filler. In any case if you were to sand the primer or the filler down and even lightly hit or scuff into the polyethylene, that area has to be re-flame treated. If you hit it hard enough to bubble the primer or filler, you are way overdoing it! Several light quick sweeps with the flame will do the job - a near-scorching will ruin it!

If you need optimum adhesion or structural bonding for repairs or modification that can be done too but the chemistry has to be kicked up a lot

[astro]

Some of the links do say Krylon Fusion paint will stick to Polyethylene. Might be worth a try.

[Reeder]

Perhaps appliques or stickers would be a better choice?

[MrPeabody]

If you go to an auto paint and body store you can buy a pray paint used to change the color of vinyl and plastic trim parts. You use a wipe down solution to clean the plastic and then just spray as you would any other paint.

I changed the trim color on one of my trucks from brown to gray and when it was done it looked factory fresh.
Very easy to do and very durable.

Hope this helps

Don

[Boyo_Jim]

How about ink? Sharpies?

[ccwaterback]

Fingernail polish, with a couple coats of clear to seal it?

[Terrifel]

@Boyo Jim

How about ink? Sharpies?

Unfortunately, the box in question is colored black, which I think would mean that I’d have to put on a lighter base coat first, which puts me back at square one.

@ccwaterback

Fingernail polish, with a couple coats of clear to seal it?

Though I could be wrong, I suspect that this would have the same effect as Testor’s enamel model paint, which I tried already without success. I may give it a shot anyway, just in case. However, it is a rather large box, so I would probably need some fairly huge bottles of fingernail polish.

Mr. Blue Sky, The Krylon Fusion brand paint sounds mildly promising. I’ll probably give it a try if it’s not too insanely expensive, although the list of colors sounds fairly alarming (Fairy Tale Pink? Blonde Shimmer? Sun Dried Tomato?!). I am also a bit concerned regarding my ability to spray-stencil detailed images effectively, especially since the box in question has a slight texture to it. I had been focusing my attention on brands of paint that could be applied with a brush, but this might be a lot more convenient. I have an old art supply box that I could test it out on, although I’d never be able to take it out in public again after the first coat of Blonde Shimmer.

Astro, thank you for searching out that link for me. However, I am afraid that any painting technique requiring the use of “oxygen-rich flame” is probably beyond my ability to employ safely. Given a choice, I’d definitely rather go with Reeder’s suggestion of stickers; they’re much less flammable. Now to locate an animal footprint-themed, polyethylene-friendly sticker outlet…

[astro]

@Terrifel

Unfortunately, the box in question is colored black, which I think would mean that I’d have to put on a lighter base coat first, which puts me back at square one.
Though I could be wrong, I suspect that this would have the same effect as Testor’s enamel model paint, which I tried already without success. I may give it a shot anyway, just in case. However, it is a rather large box, so I would probably need some fairly huge bottles of fingernail polish.

Mr. Blue Sky, The Krylon Fusion brand paint sounds mildly promising. I’ll probably give it a try if it’s not too insanely expensive, although the list of colors sounds fairly alarming (Fairy Tale Pink? Blonde Shimmer? Sun Dried Tomato?!). I am also a bit concerned regarding my ability to spray-stencil detailed images effectively, especially since the box in question has a slight texture to it. I had been focusing my attention on brands of paint that could be applied with a brush, but this might be a lot more convenient. I have an old art supply box that I could test it out on, although I’d never be able to take it out in public again after the first coat of Blonde Shimmer.

Astro, thank you for searching out that link for me. However, I am afraid that any painting technique requiring the use of “oxygen-rich flame” is probably beyond my ability to employ safely. Given a choice, I’d definitely rather go with Reeder’s suggestion of stickers; they’re much less flammable. Now to locate an animal footprint-themed, polyethylene-friendly sticker outlet…

You might have the same problem with stickers unless you can locate a polyethylene glue to adhere them. The very nature of polyethylene is to strongly resist things sticking to it or bonding with it.

[Tim_T-Bonham.net]

Here is a solution that may work for you.

1. Buy a piece of the break-resistant plastic window glass replacement, appropriately-sized to fit on the side of this container.

2. Apply your design to the inside of this clear plastic, either by painting (in reverse), using a decal, pasting a painted paper sheet, etc.

3. Drill holes in the corners, thru both the plastic and the side of the container. Then use small bolts to attach solidly.

This is not an optimal solution, since you now have clear plastic on the sides that is probably more vulnerable to damage than the original rubberized plastic, and you have bolts & nuts on the inside, which could damage the contents. But it’s worth trying if all these other ideas don’t work out.

[robz]

HI all,

I work for a company that makes plastic stuff. The sorta fishing tackle type boxes we make are made out of Polypropylene. Some lids that we make for a particular box are made out of Linear Low Density Polyethylene.
Does the box have a recycling triangle on it? 5 is for Polypropylene, 2 is HDPE, (high density Polyethylene), 4 is LDPE, (low density polyethylene).
Can’t help with the painting though, never tried to paint the stuff, we color it before it is molded.

[Terrifel]

@robz

HI all,

I work for a company that makes plastic stuff. The sorta fishing tackle type boxes we make are made out of Polypropylene. Some lids that we make for a particular box are made out of Linear Low Density Polyethylene.
Does the box have a recycling triangle on it? 5 is for Polypropylene, 2 is HDPE, (high density Polyethylene), 4 is LDPE, (low density polyethylene).
Can’t help with the painting though, never tried to paint the stuff, we color it before it is molded.

Well, I feel fairly goofy for not looking more closely at the box in question; there is indeed a little recycling triangle hidden away on the bottom, and it claims that the material in question is “5” --so, evidently Polypropylene then. Since the box looks like it could be dropped from a helicopter and sustain little if any damage, I guess I subconsciously assumed that no one would ever need to recycle one. Ah well, that’s one mystery solved. Thanks robz.