I’m doing a little spring fixing-up. There are a few places on my ceiling and walls that have suffered water damage from condensation and a leaky roof that has since been repaired. I have scraped off the flaking paint and bad, powdery plaster. And I have pulled out some small chunks of plaster that came loose when some cracks formed. Soon, I will repair any running cracks.
When I am done, the area in question will be structurally sound, but it will look like crap. I will have a few square feet of pitted, uneven wall and ceiling. There will even be two walnut-sized holes that need to be filled in.
What spackle-type product should I use to trowel over the area to smooth it all out and fill in the holes? The product must be able to adhere to old paint and plaster, even in a thin coat. Ideally, it should not shrink when it dries, and it should be easy to sand and paint anew.
I’m not going to be much help, but I’ll ask a question of the folks who will arrive soon with answers: why not use plaster? A denser bottom coat, let it dry, and then a thinner top layer, then sand.
Yep. Get some wall patches for those holes (you can get them pretty small, like 4x4 for example), then mud it all up. You can get 20 minute mud, which would probably suit your purpose, since it’s just drywall, I assume? Unfortunately, there will be some shrinkage. You can sand it, too.
I’m obviously an expert (not) – so what’s the difference between drywall mud and plaster? In post #1, that’s what I think I meant, but its apparently not what I said.
Hmm. Seems I misread. It’s not drywall you’re dealing with, is it? It’s plaster. You’ll need plaster products! Drywall compound isn’t going to work on plaster, as there would be adhesion issues; it’s meant to attach itself to paper-faced drywall. Plaster dries much harder. So there’s your difference, squeegee.
You’re going to want a setting-type compound, the kind that is a powder you mix with water. You can sand this stuff - patching plaster you can’t.
True plaster of paris is applied so that the finished surface is smooth and requires no sanding (presuming smooth wall finish is desired). The mixture (of plaster powder and water) starts a catalytic reaction, liberating heat as it dries and hardens.
Setting type joint compounds are similar, in that they harden quickly, and liberate heat. Most bix bog stores carry setting type compounds from 15 to 90 minute. They can be sanded, but are harder than ready mix.
Ready mix joint compound, aka drywall mud, is available in several grades, depending on the water content which relates to the workability and degree of shrinkage. Speaking of USG products-green has the most moisture, is easiest to mess with for novices, but shrinks the most. Blue is much stiffer, but shrinks a lot less, and purple is in between.
For your job, if you have little experience, just use the green-you’ll need to do over any thicker spots, but you’ll gain proficiency with practice.
Missed my edit window while I was searching for the website. USG probably has what you need. I’m looking to see the difference here, but this is not my area of expertise. All I know is you should probably look for the one you mix water into, but you know, these guys probably have decent pre-mixes. They’re a good company, either way.
