I need to save space so I want to get a pots/pan rack, where you put them on the wall.
But it ends up being heavy. I have no handy man experience. Is this a job I can do myself? What tools do I need? I’ve seen terms like ‘level’ and ‘stud’ but they all assume I know something about that. I dont want to mess up my new kitchen!
I’d recommend going to a hardware store (Home Depot, Lowes, or a smaller one) and asking someone in the aisle that has all of the screws and nails in it. Ideally, you want to use screws to attach this to the studs behind the drywall. If your home is typical, there are 2"x4" wooden studs standing vertically, sixteen inches apart, covered by half-inch-thick drywall. If the rack is hung on screws or nails through the drywall, it’s going to fall sooner or later. You may need a stud finder to locate the studs, or you can just hammer a narrow nail through the wall to locate the studs (but that will result in multiple nail holes).
First, buy a stud finder like this one. Then use an appropriate-sized screw to hang your rack, probably about a 2" would work, since you likely have either 1/2" or 5/8" sheetrock on the wall. Easy peasy.
If you buy a pot rack that has two mounting holes, chances are good that the holes will be 16" apart, which is the normal spacing for studs in your wall. Find one stud, measure 16" and voila. You’ll probably need a level for that, by the way.
If you end up hanging it on the drywall, I’d use toggle bolts to hang it. Otherwise, your pots could end up on the floor.
I see Dewey beat me to the punch.
Depending on how heavy you’re talking, you can also use drywall anchors. A few high quality anchors can hold a decent amount of weight, depending on how it’s distributed. Nylon toggle anchors like these can hold 50 lbs each (though that’s assuming the force is straight down, not outwards). Basically you drill a hole into the wall, insert the anchor (probably with the help of a hammer), pull out the anchor wings, and then you can screw into the anchor.
Screwing into a stud is the sturdiest and safest way to go. But there might not be studs where you want the rack, in which case you can safely use anchors or toggle bolts as long as the whole rack isn’t ridiculously heavy.
A few more points. Often you can spot the screws holding the drywall. Just look for a verticle line of minor depressions. There will be a stud behind them and 16’’ on either side. A flashlight may help spot them. Some people are able to locate studs by the different sound when you knock on the wall.
Unless the rack in the picture is huge, you may only get one screw in a stud. Make it the upper one.
So what do you need? A drill, a screwdriver, maybe a hammer. Often things come with screws.
Are the nylon ones better than the metal ones?
They’re not stronger, but they’re cheaper, can be easier to use, and strong enough in most cases. A metal toggle bolt will be stronger than a comparably sized nylon toggle, though both are pretty strong.
I notice everyone uses electric drill bits now; what did they use before electricity? How do you drill into a wall?
Before electricity there were varioussortsof hand drills. People still use 'em occasionally today, for delicate woodworking projects, since they give you a bit more control. You can get a cheap (but good enough to drill a few holes in drywall) corded electric drill for maybe $40 from just about anywhere.
I see three support holes in the rack. One is in the middle. I would center that one on a vertical wall stud. Use a flat head wood screw or a Simson Strong Tie screw there. The other two will be only in drywall. I would use 5/32 Molly bolt fasteners on those outside two holes.
You need a stud sensor, 5/32 drill, screwdrivers, Simson screw and a level.
Your post suggests that you should have a friend perform this simple installation. I could have it done in minutes if you were my neighbor.
Level. Usually a simple stick of wool, metal, or plastic with a vial of liquid with a bubble in it. When level, the bubble centers itself between a couple of lines. Things look better if level, and sometimes work better.
You could get by without one. Install the center screw first. Turn it to look right. Step back and check it again. if you get it to where it looks OK, put the other 2 screws in.
Thanks 
Wow - Cuisinart has a horrible listing for that item. Here’s the Amazon one, it’s not much better, but does include user reviews which include information on how far apart the screw holes are. The bottom two (on the horizontal bar) are indeed 16" apart. As someone upthread mentioned, you’ll want to use a toggle bolt on the middle. And of course, if you’ll be 8" off-center by going with two studs, you can get away with putting the middle hole into a stud, and toggle bolting the outer two (just measure several times to make sure you know *exactly *where the middle of that stud is).
Lots of good advice so far.
5/32" toggle bolts on the lower part should be more than sufficient. The weight of the unit plus the weight of pots, pans, etc. will be pulling straight down, and pushing back.
For the upper (center) support, finding a stud is by far, your best option. The entire weight of the fixture, plus the weight of whatever you hang on it, will be pulling out, away from the wall
For that, I would recommend using a #10 Pan head, wood screw of sufficient length to enable at least 1 to 1-1/4" of penetration into the wooden stud. (1-3/4"" ought to be more than long enough. If you’re unable to find any screws that size, I would err on the side of longer=stronger.) Most houses use 1/2" sheetrock on interior walls, as such I would be hesitant about using Molly bolts or toggle bolts for the top support, if you’re going to count on the sheetrock alone.
If for some reason you’re limited on where (horizontally) you can position the unit, another option would be to mount a 1"x4" to the wall with toggle bolts (or, if possible, make the 1x4’s long enough to catch a stud on both ends, and use screws to attach) and then mount your hanger to the 1"x4" 's, with wood screws.
The unit pictured looks like it will hold up a substantial amount of weight, if fastened properly.
I realize that what I’ve described might sound like “overkill”, so here’s a suggestion.
Put all of the pots, pans, skillets etc. that you anticipate hanging on this rack into one stack, lift that up and you’ll have a good idea of what will be hanging over your head. (Plus the added stress of removing and replacing said pots, pans, etc. can cause fasteners to loosen.)
Accurate to a degree. The strength of and amount of weight Toggle bolts can support, whether metal or plastic (nylon), is also dependent upon the material which they are mounted thru. A toggle bolt rated for 50 or 100# mounted thru 1/2" sheetrock will only support whatever the sheetrock will. And that is also conditional upon the direction of the force applied.
(Not trying to be :nitpicky: But this is something that I have a lot of experience with.)
Are you sure the center one should be the stud, and not (instead) the two side ones?
Absolutely positive.
Look at the picture that was provided as an example. The forces exerted on the two fasteners on the bottom part will primarily, be downward.
The forces exerted on the single fastener at the top center will be outward, away (and down, to a much lesser degree) from the wall.
That’s where you’re going to need a strong fastening point.
I would trust a large wood screw, driven firmly into a stud, over any type of Molly bolt or toggle bolt. (For that particular application.)
FWIW, I am a Commercial carpenter and General Contractor, with 30+ years of experience.
Another vote for the center to be screwed to a stud. I would use a 2’’ x 1/4’’ screw.
The big key is “driven firmly”. You want to be sure you are driving the screw straight and in the center of the stud.
Once you get an idea where the stud is, you can drive a small finish nail through the drywall in a small line …xxxxx… that will tell you exactly where the stud is, and exactly where each edge is, so you can get the screw dead center. I would also pre-drill for the screw, so you don’t split the stud.
You may prefer to use a 1/4 inch lag bolt , probably 2" long, instead of a screw, pre drill with a 3/16 bit. The lag bolt has a hex head, so you can tighten it with a wrench or socket, instead of a screwdriver. Yes you can use a drill to drive a screw, but it’s easy to strip the head of a big screw if you’re not in a strong position, and not used to doing it.
Of course, all the above assumes that you are in North America. Those of us in the rest of the world are regularly frustrated by talk of “drywall”, “studs” etc in DIY contexts, because our houses are generally built of brick and breeze-block. On the plus side, you can drill into the wall anywhere and get a solid fixing; on the downside, it can be hard to drill.
(Yes, I did recently have to drill a 5-inch diameter hole through two layers of brick wall for a new cooker hood, why do you ask? 
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