I didn’t realize that there were financial considerations involved. I normally wouldn’t think much of telling someone to buy things I would consider “accessories” but when things are tight, everything counts so I do understand.
It’s been a while since I’ve had to deal with a machine shut down due to a thermal fault so I can’t recall what would be considered a normal interval. Honestly, 5 min. sounds like a long time but then again, if the heat sink has decent contact with the CPU chip (the IHS to be technical - integrated heatsink that is part of the CPU assembly that is normally referred to as “the chip”), that wouldn’t be unusual. Not long ago I ran one rig for several months with a h/s that wasn’t firmly in contact with the cpu. It was loose either though - one of the 4 push pins wasn’t in the m/b all the way so part of the chip got hotter than it should have.
What’s strange at this point is that you aren’t getting the same symptoms any more. The fact that the cpu fan spins up tells me that the computer is in fact probably turning on but for whatever reason either you aren’t getting any video output or there is something amiss with the connection. I’m fairly sure that a dead cpu or m/b would result in absolutely nothing happening when you turn on the power. I’ve had that problem several times and there are no signs of life at all.
There are any number of things that can go wrong when trying to do a diagnosis something sight unseen like this, but a thermal fault still makes the most sense regarding your original problem. So I don’t think you’ve wasted your money. Unfortunately there’s no way I can be certain.
As to the current manifestation, I know you said you checked everything, but I would pay particular attention to the monitor connections. I can’t recall a situation where the cpu fan would spin up but there was something seriously wrong with the m/b or cpu. I think I have, on occasion, had to reset the bios to get the video back, but that is the worst situation I can remember.
If you’re sure that the connections are solid and the monitor is powered on, then at that point I would have to admit to being at a complete loss. I’m not even sure what I would do next to try to diagnose the problem.
I’m not recommending that you do this, but for future reference, just removing the battery will not reset the bios. There will be a jumper on the m/b that should be labeled CLRTC (clear real time clock). It will have 3 pins (although higher end boards may have a button or other kind of switch). To clear the cmos (the bios) and reset it to the defaults, you need to do the following in this order
- unplug the power supply
- remove the battery
- jumper the 2 pins not jumpered during normal use
- wait at least 20-30 seconds
- replace the jumper to the pins it was on originally
- replace the battery
- plug in the power supply.
I hope someone else will be able to be of more help.