What's going on with the switch to electric everything?

That’d be a pretty big battery! An oven can use as much as 5KW per hour to maintain a temperature. Cooling a roast for 2 hours might require a 10 kWh battery. Turn on the four burners on the top, and it’ll be even more. A 10kWh battery currently costs a lot more than a stove.

So maybe the battery is just used during the warm-up phase? But every time the elements kick in during the cook you are going to draw a big electrical load. Or does it supplement house power, say by limiting the current draw to the house to 15A or something? Because I can’t imagine powering the entire cook cycle of a stove with a battery.

That seems like a wild overestimate (assuming you mean 5 kW continuous). That could only be true if the oven had absolutely terrible insulation, and although ovens do tend to heat up the house, I’m not aware of any that are equivalent to a 5 kW space heater.

I’d expect the continuous load to be under 1 kW once heated. So yes–during the warmup phase, as well as short-term, high-heat scenarios like boiling a lot of water or searing something. Simmering long term will again not require the same load.

Still, clearly the battery will be in the multi-kWh range–exactly how big, I haven’t seen yet. But probably in the 3-5 range would be my guess.

Batteries are under $150/kWh these days, so this isn’t for cheap stoves, but doesn’t have to be at ultra-premium level either. It can be competitive with reasonably nice induction stoves, especially considering the cost savings and the high peak heating.

That’s an air-source heat pump. Ground source are definitely expensive but they will work in almost any climate–even perma-frost in a well. I will note that we did NOT do a GSHP for our new-ish home in Montana because of the cost. I don’t know why mini-splits are so cheap and ground source is so expensive–it’s the same technology, just a different heat sink.

Pictures like this might give a hint:

No an electric oven can consume anywhwre from 2kW to 5kW, with the average being about 3 kW. That’s just for the oven. If you are also cooking stuff on the cooktop, small burners add about 1.2 kW and large ones as much as 2kW.

So if you have something in the oven at 425 degrees and have a couole of burners going for the side dishes, you are likely drawing 5.4kW to as much as 9kW. Cooking a big meal like a roast, mashed potatoes and corn could use up 20kWh of energy. My grandmother would often have all burners and the oven going for most of the day on holidays. Baking pies, making pudding, cooking a roast or some other dish, etc. Probably used 30-40kWh for all that.

Where can I get one of those? I was considering a backup battery for home, and they were way more money than that. For instance, here’s an ecoflow 1kWh standby battery, for $999.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B9XB57XM/ref=sspa_dk_hqp_detail_aax_0?sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9ocXBfc2hhcmVk&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE3SFBTQ0VCUkwwM00mZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwODA5NDUxMlJNRTNKTkk3N1kxJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwMzMxNDYyNFBZTFpMNUdQUEgmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9ocXBfc2hhcmVkJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1

The battery itself will be the major part of that cost. Maybe $200 for the electronics because an ‘add-on’ 1kW battery is $799.

I think there is some cross use of the terms kW’s and kWh’s in these replies. Yes the oven can use 5kW’s but due to cycling the heating element that does not equate to 5kWh use in an hour and thus can use a smaller battery.

That’s a really poor-quality article that doesn’t distinguish between peak and continuous loads. Obviously preheating your oven will draw close to the peak, while cooking a roast for 2 hours will be much closer to the continuous rate. The actual energy needed to raise the temperature of the food to the desired level is basically negligible. The rest will be lost due to leakage and depends on the amount of insulation.

Again–are you searing or simmering (or something in between)? Searing is fast and might only be for a few minutes. Simmering takes very little energy to keep going, especially for an induction stove that spends very little on heating the air. But in no case are you running all the burners on high for hours at a time. Unless you’re running a kitchen or something–in which case, don’t buy one.

Tangentially, I expect these stoves to also support 240v input, but not require it. So they’ll work fine even at 120v, maybe with some small limitations that aren’t an issue for most people, but work even better at 240v.

You can’t, but an appliance manufacturer producing millions of units can.

Mine do. Nicely, altho the sparker doesn’t work, we can still cook during an outage.

I was under the impression that to some extent Natural gas is a byproduct of oil drilling, and if we don’t use it, it will have to be burned off, like in Russia.

I would resist if they said I had to replace my gas stove, but requiring new homes to have inductions stoves? Fine by me.

How does induction work with cast iron?

I don’t trust the “math” of Conservative News Radio or Fox news. In my area, every driver with an EV or Plug-in has rooftop solar.

Exactly. The oven and burners need a high peak power because no one wants to wait around forever for the oven to preheat or to boil a pot of water. But once heated, the power usage is low. And there are some applications like searing that also need high heat, but they’re only needed for short periods.

Once you put a battery in there, you can get even more efficiency, because even a high-powered gas stove is actually pretty slow, and some energy is wasted while in the preheating phase. Speed that up and the whole process goes faster, which means less energy lost to the environment. Not to mention more convenient.

Some is I’m sure, but I believe the vast majority of gas these days is obtained from purpose-drilled shale gas fields, such as the Barnett Shale near Fort Worth, or the Marcellus Shale in Pennsylvania (the country’s largest gas production field).

Yeah, we heat with propane. Free standing cast iron stove. Doesn’t need electricity. We are also in a passive solar house that provides a lot of heat.

We lost power for about 5 hours one late afternoon and switched over to kerosene hurricane lamps and played cards/chess. It was nice.

If it was for a few days, we could bucket water out a small (very) stream that runs on our property for flushing toilets.