2000 Honda Accord V6. The engine quits while driving along. I manage to coast onto a side street. I try to start it, and it starts instantly, like normal, but then dies. I repeat that about 10 times, then it idles OK. I gingerly drive away, and it’s like nothing ever happened. That was 4 days ago, and it’s been running perfectly ever since. Weird!
If the check engine light is on (and even if it’s not), you can have it scanned. There may be a code set in the computer that’ll give you an idea.
Maybe a loose wire, loose or corroded harness to the ECM or fuse box, bad cam or crank position sensor (or associated wiring), faulty ignition switch, bad fuel pump, problem with the anti-theft system (there would probably be security light for that), vacuum leak and the list goes on and on.
Absent any other symptoms, like the car running rough before it happens, my suggestion would be to pop the hood and look for something glaringly obvious like a mouse nest or chewed up wiring and then have it scanned. Most auto parts stores will do it for free. They typically just tell you what codes are in the computer (ie P0400, P0301 etc), but not what they mean.
no check engine light? the fuel pump could be giving up the ghost. it’s also possible the cam/crank position sensor(s) are flaking out, but that should turn on the CEL.
Does the power cut out also or just the engine? I had a 97’ Accord that had an electrical problem where the power would just cut out randomly while cruising down the freeway.
IIRC I remember Click and Clack on Car Talk have often stated that the fuel pump relay often gets flaky on older Hondas. That seemed to be their go to answer whenever someone called in with a Honda with symptoms like you describe.
We need to know if there is a check engine or service engine soon light on, and hopefully the code, in order to really help.
But based upon very limited information I think it may be a fuel starvation issue. Runs fine and then stops. After it sits briefly it runs again, it gets a little fuel pressure and starts, eventually it runs fine again. Without any other indications like electrical issues I would look at fuel pressure and supply.
No matter how complicated an internal combustion engine gets, it still really needs only three basic things: fuel, air, and spark.
A good way to test that theory is, the next time it does, instead of trying to start it a bunch of times, just turn the key to “on” for a few seconds, then back to off. Do this 4 or 5 times and if the fuel pump is dying or the filter is clogged, this’ll help build some pressure.
Fuel Pump
Thanks guys! No check engine light comes on. If it happens again it’ll be straight to my mechanic.
If it’s the fuel pump, it could also be the fuel pump relay, wiring, fuel pressure regulartor or oil pressure sensor.
An easy test the OP could do is to swap the fuel pump relay with another one that’s the same. IME, granted this is mostly with GMs, there’s typically a bunch of identical relays in the underhood fuse box. Swap it with something like the AC or horn and see what happens.