Where to get polarized sunglasses film?

I’m trying to fab some flip-up goggles for Burning Man using welding goggles. I’d like to get some high quality adhesive polarized film that I can use for sunglass material that will properly protect my eyeballs for whatever the prevailing USA standards are.

I’d like something with the attenuation level of Ray-Ban Wayfarers.

Would something like this work?

http://www.dougdeals.com/p-11068-new-lot-of-2-sheets-nitto-denko-npf-teg1465du-npf-polarizing-film-for-lcd-screen.aspx?cagpspn=pla&gclid=CL345bunq7cCFa9eQgoduVIAqg

or this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-NEW-NITTO-DENKO-17-OPTICAL-POLARIZING-FILM-LCD-SCREEN-FILTER-NPF-SEG1425DUHC-/330741599063#vi-content

Would the stated 44% transmission level work for sunglasses?

What are the relevant properties that I should be concerned with (UVB blocking, I guess)?

Would the clear lenses in the goggles typically be inherently UVB blocking?

I don’t really know but I think welding shade #14 is recommend for eclipse viewing. Is that a good standard to go by? If so, this might be the best product although I don’t know how it affects colors. I think all of them are tinted.

Just so I’m clear on what you’re asking: you want to take the welding glass out of a pair of welding goggles and put in a pair of lenses, and each new lens will be a polarizing film on top of clear glass/plastic blank. Right?

If so, I’m not sure that the filters you linked to would be suitable for this purpose. A few governments, notably Australia, have put some standards for sunglass lenses online. I see two possible problems with the filters you linked to. First, their transmittance is only 44%; this would make then “fashion spectacles” rather than actual sunglasses by the Australian standards, because they don’t block enough visible light. You would probably want something with a much lower transmittance, especially out on the playa.

Second, they’re listed as “UV cut”, but it’s unclear what this means. The spec sheets for the fliters don’t say anything about the transmission in the UVA/UVB range, which you want to be as low as possible. It’s certainly possible that the glass/plastic backing you’re planning to use would block enough UV, but that’s not an inherent property of glass or plastic.

I would keep looking.

Polarization and UV blocking are two distinct features. Polarization reduces reflected glare, but by itself does not ensure UV blocking. There aren’t any particular standards for sunglasses in the U.S. AFAIK. Sunglasses are generally labeled for UV protection if they have it but they are not required to have it. You’ve got your cheap colored plastic all the way up to expensive polycarbonate lenses with multiple coatings for polarization, UV protection, etc. What is it that you want to protect your eyeballs against?

Polarizing sunglasses do not, for the most part, use a glued-on polarizing film but one that’s deposited on the lens directly. I can’t imagine that you’re going to get good adhesion or that the polarizer isn’t going to look shitty glued on like that. You’re better off buying sunglasses for Burning Man.

Thanks for the replies.

Don’t need to be staring at the sun. I’ve been to a total eclipse of the sun, and you can’t see much if you are wandering around wearing arc welding shade #14.

Yeah, I want to replace the flip up super dark welding glass with something akin to regular sunglasses.

Thanks, I figured 44% wasn’t much. I read somewhere that polycarbonate was great for attenuating UV so when forgetting to flip the welding lenses down, the damage is lessened ( maybe more useful for oxy-acetylene I guess).

Maybe I’ll just blow off the polarization and try to find proper UV protection film of an appropriate darkness.

Kind of defeats the purpose of sculpting yoiur own eyewear. The linked film has adhesive film attached so I don’t think it’ll look shitty.

I’m wondering if I can get away with some sort of window tint:

This says it blocks 99% of UV. Is that enough?

I’m thinking that the stuff those wannabee gangbangers use on their riced out Hondas might work OK and be cheap also.

I once bought some 2" squares of polarizing plastic from Edmund Scientific. This was not a stick on film, but about 1/16" thick rigid plastic. We were able to cut it cleanly with a sheet-metal shear into 4ea 1" squares. Tin snips might work to trim it into circles. Most plastics block UV very well.

Don’t you have to distinguish between Uva and Uvb? Not sure how that works.

That’s a good idea. They sell circular filters that might actually be the correct diameter already.

I’m thinking that one of these 3M car window tints will work though:

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Window_Film/Solutions/Markets-Products/Automotive/

Some have transmissibility as low as 5%. I can probably pick up some scraps for cheap at my local window tinting dealer.

UVB is worse I think. Some of the 3M film cuts 99.9% while the darker stuff cuts 99% of UV. I assume that 3M has some expertise in making safe film as the tinting would serve the same purpose as sunglasses and probably be subject to similar liability as sunglass manufacturers.

Maybe you can order some replacement shade 5 lenses.

Otherwise, try a pair of sunglasses with big lenses or wrap-arounds and cut them to fit. I’d experiment with a pair of dollar store glasses first. If it works it may be kind of cool because they will probably bulge out instead of being flat.

This is actually a pretty good idea. I probably have some of those old people wraparound disposable sunglasses that you get from the optometrist after getting your eyes dilated. In fact, I have to make an appointment with my optometrist for a new prescription and maybe I can nab some then.