I have a Sony combination VCR and DVD player/recorder. Worked fine for the past 2 years…
But then I ran out of DVD-Rs, and bought a new spindle of 100 DVD-Rs. I am unable to get anything to record onto the new DVDs. All indications, lights, etc are that a recording is taking place – but when I try to play back the new DVD, there’s nothing there. Same problem whether I’m recording from TV to DVD or dubbing from tape to DVD.
I’m confident that everything is wired properly – recording to VHS works fine.
All I can think of, is that my old DVD-Rs were 8x, and the new batch are 16x. Would that present a problem?
The 8x vs. 16x shouldn’t be a problem, since the 16x discs will work fine on a slower recorder. The other thing to check is the format. There are DVD-R discs and DVD+R discs, which are not universally compatible with each other, although many players and recorders will work with both. Are you sure you got the right kind?
Did you get a shrinkwrapped bundle of some nameless brand with no logo or anything at a discount computer store? I bought some once, and they totally didn’t work in my recorder. Discs that had actual, you know, brand names and company addresses on them have worked without problem.
I was using +R previously, and had much, but intermittent, difficulty. I switched to -R and never had a problem, until I ran out.
Old spool and new spool are both TDK. The only difference is the speed…and that the new spool has a non-glossy surface, supposedly to make it easier to write on. If I ever get anything recorded, that might be handy.
Not at home, so I can’t post the model number of my hardware, unfortunately.
Depends on the DVD recording device. The owner’s manual will tell you all acceptable disc formats. The OP said that DVD-R has worked fine before, but now a new batch doesn’t. I would suggest trying another batch of brand name DVD-R discs before concluding some defect in the machine.
I suspect it’s a dye compatibility problem. Blank media have something called an ATIP track that identifies things like the media type, capacity, maximimum recommended recording speed, and the type of materials (inlcuding photosensitive dyes) used to make the recording surface. there are a number of different dyes, all of which try to do more or less the same job, but because they might have slightly different operational properties, the idea is that they would all have some kind of identification code in the ATIP track that will tell the recorder how best to configure the hardware to write to them.
Trouble is that new dyes are being developed all the time, but the firmware in your recorder will at best only know about those which are on the market at the time the recorder itself is manufactured, so if, for example, your player has defined parameters for recording to dye numbers 1 through 23 (I have no idea how they are actually coded), when you feed it a brand new disc that uses the brand new dye type 24, it has to either use some kind of failsafe default settings and hope for the best (which may work fine, or only to some degree, or not at all), or flatly refuse to record to the disc.
Do you need to finalize the discs before they’re playable, and if so, have you forgotten to do that?
If you look at the recordable surface of the disc, can you see where it’s been burned?
Can you see any files on the disc if you put it into a computer’s DVD-ROM drive?
No. Those special CD-Rs are mandated by the Audio Home Recording Act, because CD recorders can be used to copy CDs (which is legal as long as you use those discs). DVD recorders can’t copy encrypted DVDs, AFAIK, and in any case they aren’t covered by the AHRA.
I thought of that, but the “Finalize” option is grayed out, as the disk appears for all intents & purposes, to be blank.
Update: I bought 2 new sets of disks: one 8x, and one 16x. The 8x record just fine, so there is something wrong with the spindle of discs I was using. I’ll try the 16x tonight.
Almost certainly a dye compatibility problem, I would conclude. The troublesome discs will probably still be OK for data backup - I’ll bet they are readable without problem by the drive in your computer (if you have one).
I find sample-to-sample differences between brands, batches and recorders. Some of the most consistent and reliable have been “nobrand” discs, but this may be a subjective observation.
It’s my personal opinion that recorders are often operating in the ragged edge of specs, and since they are not repairable, no one will align or adjust them, and they degrade over time. Either use the disc batch that works or toss the recorder and get another. Sad, but true.
Finalizing shouldn’t be a problem on the original recorder unless you record more than one session (mine only reads back the last session until it is finalized). Also, you didn’t say if you could see any tracks written on the disc, so we don’t know if the problem is in reading or writing. Which is it?
Mystery solved…it is the recording speed. 8x disks work, 16x disks don’t. (And I confirmed it, by RTFM). I’m a bit concerned…will 8x disks be hard to find?
And does anybody want to buy a spindle of 100 16x DVD-Rs?
