But if their initial number is simply to “get the ball rolling,” and you have no problem with that, then why do you care whether or not they’re willing to give you a number at all? Why start the thread in the first place?
If all you want to do is “get the ball rolling,” why not just make them an offer as soon as they get in the store, instead of poking and prodding the person in an effort to get a number out of them? It doesn’t haven’t to be your absolute best offer; offer them something that you would be willing to pay, and that isn’t an insult. Then the ball is rolling, and the two of you can either come to a quick agreement on a fair price, or the person can walk away.
Also, like some others in this thread, i tend to think that a professional dealer, someone who makes used equipment trades all the time as part of his business, and who knows the market for used equipment, should be willing to make an offer first.
This sort of thing happens at all levels of price. I sold cars for a year (hated every minute of every day) and, as everyone knows, one of the biggest negotiating points in the sale of a new car is the value of the person’s trade-in, if they have one. People tell all sorts of stories about what they think their car should be worth, and car dealerships tell all sorts of stories about why it’s not actually worth as much as you think. As some in this thread have already noted, people develop attachments to their stuff, and this is often especially true with cars, and will often develop a sense of value that is out of line with what anyone would actually pay.
I often found that the best way to cut through some of the bullshit was to call their bluff. For example, say my used car valuer put a price of $4,000 on the car, and the customer told me that the guy down the road had offered him $6,500 for it. Now i knew that there’s no way any other dealer in the area was going to pay $6,500 for that car, so there is one of two possibilities going on here: either he’s bullshitting in order to try and push up my price, or the other dealer has artificially jacked up the price of his trade-in by discounting the new car.
That happens all the time. If your new car sells for $30,000 MSRP, as a salesperson you know how much room you have to play with the price. And for some cars that runs into the thousands of dollars. So if some guy is set on getting $6,500 for a car that is worth $4,000, you simply tell him that you’ll give him $6,500 for his car, and take the other $2,500 out of the sale price of the new car.
The problem, in these cases, is that too many buyers are so invested in the (presumed) value of their old car that they don’t keep an eye on the only number that matters: the changeover price. That is, if you’re trading in an old car for a new car, and are shopping around different dealers, the only number you should be concerned with is how much you will have to pay in order to hand over your old car and drive away in the new one.
If Dealer A gives you $6,500 for your trade-in, and sells you the new car for $30,000, your changeover price is $23,500. Now if Dealer B only offers you $4,000 for your trade-in, but also discounts the new car to $27,000, your changeover is $23,000. You should go with Dealer B, but all some people see is that Dealer B insulted them by offering only $4,000 for their pride and joy. It’s a very strange game.
In such cases, i found that the best strategy was to try and educate people about the importance of changeover price. Sometimes that worked, and sometimes it didn’t. In some cases, especially if i was pretty sure that they were bullshitting, i just called them on it. I’d say, quite genuinely, “Well, that’s an excellent offer. If someone is willing to give you $6,500 for that car, you should go and take it right now, because, quite honestly, i simply can’t match that price.” When i did that, a fairly frequent response was, “Well, how much CAN you give me for it? What’s your best offer?” That’s when you know that their $6,500 number was bullshit.