And even expensive blanks won’t stand up to extended light exposure.
If the data is important to you and you want it to be readable a few months hence, store it away from heat, light and air. Especially light. A nice, dark cabinet would be your best bet, and spindle storage would probably admit the least light compared to standard, clear CD cases.
I have some DVDs that were left on a desk in indirect, filtered sunlight, like a small north window with curtains, for a year, non-data side up but exposed. They have noticeably changed color density. Some can be read, some not.
I have found that computer drives generally recognise the burnt disks, no matter what the brand. Best results are on the same drive that burnt them. Also audio CD players are not picky. However commercial DVD movie players very rarely read my burnt disks (or stutter trying to play them, especially at the end). Is there any difference in the hardware or software of consumer movie optical drives vs computer drives?
Back when I burned every Netflix disc I got (so I could turn 3 disks around 2.5 times a week), I got full compatibility with every DVD player I owned regardless of DVD disc brand by doing two things - reducing burn speed to the minimum (generally 2-4x), and limiting the burning to 4000MB (smaller than the actual capacity). For some reason the outer edges of the DVD cause problems - but keeping the burn to 4000mb always seemed to work fine.
I’ve come up with two rules over the years. Never buy anything but Verbatim DVD+R and never burn at faster than 8x. I can go hundreds of disks without a coaster or a compatibility issue with another computer or DVD player. When I catch them on sale, then I can buy the Verbatims for 22 cents apiece. Actually just go to Amazon and order 200 at a time so you can get free shipping.
I also have compatibility issues when burning at 12x and 16x. The movies will start skipping at the end with some DVD players when they are burned at 16x. Believe me 8x doesn’t take that much longer than 16x.