Which to me is a little bit of a red flag. I’ve always followed the rule of thumb that a really long menu is a sign that the quality might be mediocre. Better to do a few thing really well than lots of things so-so.
Agreed.
And quite a number of the entrees are exotics. Suggesting they’d be rarely ordered. Suggesting in turn that, e.g., that case of elk steaks has been in the freezer for many months and one is hastily thawed on the rare occasions the elk steak dish is ordered.
As George Costanza observed of greasy-spoon diners that have lobster on the menu: “You think they bring in a lobster every morning and say ‘Maybe today’s the day!’?”
I mean, putting a playing card size item on a large 12-inch plate and calling that an entree seems a bit like insulting diner
Aren’t those “playing card size items on a large 12-inch plate” only one of many courses in a multi-course meal?
It’s already weird enough to call the main course the “entrée.”
The times might be a-changing.
The article is mostly about home cooking, but also says more casual style French restaurants are making a comeback.
Bistro culture is also having a social resurgence. Long, chatty meals over wine and pâté fit perfectly into a post-pandemic craving for connection, especially among Gen-Z. The new French spots aren’t stuffy temples of gastronomy where you’re scared to tap the fork too hard on your plate — they’re loud, martini-soaked rooms full of French 75s and friends arguing over the last fry.
Why the need for a comeback?
Ruhlman has seen this all before. “It was the cuisine of America in the ‘60s,” he says, “and it was considered very high-end and chic. Then it became too stuffy and sort of fell out of favor.”
I’ve always wanted to try authentic Crêpes Suzette.
None of the fancy French restaurants in my city open for breakfast.
I’ve had them at a nice hotel. We were there for a business conference. I don’t know if my crepes were actually cooked by a French chef.
It was probably some long-haired, sweaty, and tattooed biker. Monsieur, here are your crepes. Bon Appétit 
I think of that as a dessert, not a breakfast food.
I find the tiny number of “acceptable animal proteins” in the US somewhat frustrating. I’ve eaten all those items, and only fous gras really stands out as excellent. But there are a lot of edible birds other than chicken and turkey, and a lot of edible mammals other than beef and pork. Fish is the only place where you might find some variety.
Rabbit and lamb (and duck and goose, for that matter) were apparently more common here in the past, but I suspect that they are harder to farm in large quantities, and meat production has really shifted to enormous factory farms in the last 40-50 years.
I have had a meal in France with more courses than I could count; at some point it is absurd to just pile each plate up.
Horse, guinea fowl, and steak tartare are a few things I have been served at people’s houses in France, as well as everything on @Elmer_J.Fudd 's “repulsive” list.
Horse?
Same here. Crepes suzette is more a dessert than a breakfast food. I recall Trading Places, where Winthorpe (Dan Aykroyd) is hosting his fiancée at dinner in his house. They’ve finished the main meal, and now Coleman, the butler/chef, is preparing dessert tableside: crepes suzette. A lot more preparation than pancakes (flambé-ing and various amounts of different boozes are involved), and likely tastier too.
Yes, my husband and i had it at some fancy French place, and it was very good, but what really makes it great is that it’s so much fun watching the chef flambe or at your table.
I’ve made it for dinner parties. It’s actually pretty easy, because you can make the crepes ahead and finish the dish off with the flambé-ing in view of the guests. As is pointed out by @Spoons, it’s way too boozy for breakfast. Most of the time. 
I forgot crepes has booze. I mixed them up with fancy pancakes.
Crepes by default and in other incarnations don’t have booze. But Crepes Suzette does.
Yes, a faux-filet from the supermarket.
I still don’t understand the lack of lamb in the US - it’s as common as pork and beef in the UK. Sheep can be farmed in inhospitable places, and have the added benefit of providing wool and milk for cheese. Really an all round great animal to farm.