2000 Pontiac Bonneville Power Window Problem

[jtgain]

Maybe one of you car guys can help me isolate this problem. 4 door power windows. Driver's window, lock, and mirror adjust work properly. Passenger side and both rear windows and power locks don't work, either from the master driver's console, or the individual power lock on each door.

Also the side mirror adjust works for the driver, but when flipped to R it fails to adjust the passenger side mirror.

Question: Is there a component of some type which would be common to all of these problems? Any suggestions?
Thanks

[Gary T]

My first thought is one or more broken wires in the bundle that goes through the driver's door hinge area.

[jtgain]

Originally Posted by Gary T

My first thought is one or more broken wires in the bundle that goes through the driver's door hinge area.

I'll check that. But even if I remove the driver's door, shouldn't the other three windows/locks work independently ?

[Gary T]

Originally Posted by jtgain

I'll check that. But even if I remove the driver's door, shouldn't the other three windows/locks work independently ?

Not necessarily. A typical design for the windows has main power (and/or ground) going into the master switch, then from there out to the other three doors. If that output wire from the master switch is broken, the other windows won't work. Presumably locks could be the same.

Sometimes a broken wire problem can be confirmed by holding a switch down (say, to the right front window) while moving the driver's door back and forth from 10% open to 90% open. The ends of the broken wire might touch momentarily and activate the window for a split second. If that test doesn't produce results, the next thing is to peel back the sheath over the wiring bundle and visually inspect all the wires in there. A broken wire may be totally apart, or it might be broken inside even though its insulation hasn't come apart yet. Almost always the insulation will at least be cracked.

Getting the wiring sheath loose can be difficult. One end is anchored somehow on the body, the other end inside the door. Usually the body end is most accessible. The alternative is to slit the sheath, but taping it back together is tricky and not as reliable as having an uncut sheath.

P.S. -- I assume you've checked, but do make sure that the window lockout button is in the correct position. I don't think that's your problem, but it makes sense to cover the base.

[jtgain]

Originally Posted by Gary T

Not necessarily. A typical design for the windows has main power (and/or ground) going into the master switch, then from there out to the other three doors. If that output wire from the master switch is broken, the other windows won't work. Presumably locks could be the same.

Sometimes a broken wire problem can be confirmed by holding a switch down (say, to the right front window) while moving the driver's door back and forth from 10% open to 90% open. The ends of the broken wire might touch momentarily and activate the window for a split second. If that test doesn't produce results, the next thing is to peel back the sheath over the wiring bundle and visually inspect all the wires in there. A broken wire may be totally apart, or it might be broken inside even though its insulation hasn't come apart yet. Almost always the insulation will at least be cracked.

Getting the wiring sheath loose can be difficult. One end is anchored somehow on the body, the other end inside the door. Usually the body end is most accessible. The alternative is to slit the sheath, but taping it back together is tricky and not as reliable as having an uncut sheath.

P.S. -- I assume you've checked, but do make sure that the window lockout button is in the correct position. I don't think that's your problem, but it makes sense to cover the base.

Ok, the window lockout button doesn't light at all. But, I'm think that even if that were depressed, shouldn't the driver's switch still operate the windows? I thought that the lock button just disabled the other window buttons.

Just a thought. Could that master switch be bad? Did as you said with no luck..

[Gary T]

Originally Posted by jtgain

Ok, the window lockout button doesn't light at all. But, I'm think that even if that were depressed, shouldn't the driver's switch still operate the windows? I thought that the lock button just disabled the other window buttons.

I've seen some that work as you've described, and some that disable function from both the master switch and the other door switches. Depends on the design.

Could that master switch be bad?

Yes, though that wouldn't explain the mirror problem.

[harryhjb]

I had this problem where only the drivers door power equipment works.

It is caused by a splice under the driver's seat. Spice #S302 where the input from the drivers door module to the other door modules connects. It is one of those cheap ass splice that should be outlawed. Moisture gets in it and corrodes. Cut back the wires till you get the good stuff and redo it the right way.

Splice S302 can be found under the carpet about six inches before where the wires go up to the drivers seat. It is in a plastic wrap and tape. I believe the wires for the window are brown and white.
.

[Enola Straight]

I assume your lock/window control panel on the door looks something like this?
http://www.collectorcarsforsale.com/...0414529818.jpg

If so, gently pry it off with a butterknife (it is wider and thinner than a screwdriver)
and lift the control out of the door. Make sure all the electrical plugs are secure on the control; your problem may just be a loose plug.

If the control's electrics/electronics have died, you may be able to just go to the local junkyard and dig out the control from another GM vehicle for about 20 bucks.

[bigdog1959]

Originally Posted by harryhjb

I had this problem where only the drivers door power equipment works.

It is caused by a splice under the driver's seat. Spice #S302 where the input from the drivers door module to the other door modules connects. It is one of those cheap ass splice that should be outlawed. Moisture gets in it and corrodes. Cut back the wires till you get the good stuff and redo it the right way.

Splice S302 can be found under the carpet about six inches before where the wires go up to the drivers seat. It is in a plastic wrap and tape. I believe the wires for the window are brown and white.
.

Actually the wires were brown and tan on mine. You were right on the money with this one. Took me awhile to find it, but there it was. I put the proper splice on it and the windows and everything else took right off! I would have never figured this one out by myself. THANKS HARRY!

[Monoposon]

Originally Posted by bigdog1959

Actually the wires were brown and tan on mine. You were right on the money with this one. Took me awhile to find it, but there it was. I put the proper splice on it and the windows and everything else took right off! I would have never figured this one out by myself. THANKS HARRY!

I just got done fixing this exact problem on my 2003 pontiac bonneville! Thank you guys! I took out my drivers seat and poked around for a bit till i found the splice. However the wires in my car were light brown with a white stripe (both of them). I would have never thought to look under there you guys are a lifesaver!

[dontgetcaught]

This is a common problem and I just found the fix by reading this website:

http://www.autotechonwheels.com/2010...itching-it-up/