I have a Samsung 226BW monitor, which is a 22" TN panel LCD. A few months back, it started exhibiting the weird behavior that when you first turn it on, it appears dim and flickers very rapidly, maybe 20 or 30 times per second. At first, after about 15-30 seconds, it would go from flickering to being fully on and working fine. The problem gradually got worse - after a few more months it would take 15-30 minutes rather than 15 seconds. My solution to this was to simply leave it on 24/7 (usually running with a blank screensaver) and, never having to power back up, it worked fine.
That’s a practical enough solution for the most part, but given that it’s getting progressively worse, I’m worried the whole thing may die completely. Plus, sometimes turning it back on is hard to avoid - a power outage, accidentally flipping it off, etc. and it’ll take me 40 minutes before the monitor is usable.
I know there aren’t many user servicible parts on LCDs, but does anyone know what might be the problem here and if I can fix it?
I’m loathe to replace it. It’s a long story, but essentially the 226BW (especially the samsung panel, which it is, not a subcontracted unit) is the best LCD gaming monitor ever made - it has extremely low input lag and extremely high reactivity. I generally like LCDs, but this one was good enough to make me suck it up and bear it. Their subsequent models produced after this one to replace it are actually inferior. So if I have to replace this monitor, I’ll probably end up hunting down the exact same monitor 3+ year old monitor on ebay, and it’s not cheap because they’re in high demand.
Just guessing, but that sounds like a power supply failing.
Given that the screen itself does (eventually) show up in the proper brightness & colors. And I don’t think LCD’s have any significant ‘warm-up’ time like CRT’s did.
You might try searching or contacting Samsung to see if the power supply part of the monitor could be replaced.
LCD monitors use a fluorescent tube for the backlight (at least they used to; LEDs are starting to be used instead of CCFLs). What you’re seeing is the same as when you see a fluorescent tube flickering in a household fixture. This is more likely due to a power supply problem than a bad tube, but both could be a problem.
Depending on how the monitor is built, repairing this is an easy to moderately difficult task if you have the skills and necessary tools. The parts are likely to be a lot cheaper than a new screen, assuming you can get them.
Well, it’s still flickering after an hour, so the problem has gotten worse. I suppose at some point it’s just going to flicker indefinitely.
What tools would you typically need to do a job like this? I have very little skill at working on electronics unfortunately.
Is there anything I could try to get it to kick over and stop flickering? Pounding on it? Applying heat? Adjusting monitor settings? Anything like that?
Could I fix the issue with temperature then? My room is actually colder than typical at the moment because my furnace needs to be fixed, could that be playing a role?
Probably not, the progressive nature of the failure would seem to indicate that the connection is gonna die eventually and probably soon. I would go the inverter route.
New symptoms. I wanted to know if these were consistent with a failed power inverter before I attempt to replace it.
I unplugged the monitor for a few hours and tried it again. Now the blue power on light on the power button won’t light up, and it doesn’t even blink - it just won’t power up.
And when I put my ear to the back of the unit, it’s making a high pitched humming sound.
Are these consistent with a bad inverter?
Edit: Actually, I unplugged it and plugged it back in, and I got it to turn the blue power light on. No picture though.
I listened to the back of the unit as I plugged it in - there was a low scratchy noise, sort of like white house, that after about 20 seconds faded out and didn’t make any noise. The monitor powers on when plugged in by default (or at least the power light comes on).
Anyway, of interest… the high pitched squeeling noise only occurs when the blue light is off. When you turn the monitor on (aside from that first 20 seconds after plugging it in), it’s silent.
IOW, plugged in but off = high pitched squeel. Plugged in but turned on = silent.
Oh, and if it matters, the screen/backlight is indeed still turning on, it was just too dim to see for the first few minutes. After that, it’s back to dim/flickering like before.
I have the exact same problem as you described here. I see that this issue is somewhat old and I was wondering if you managed to find a solution.
It would be of a great help to know what can be done to fix this problem, as I’m very happy with this monitor.
Old thread, but since you are asking another common issue is failing capacitors. Note this tangentially related article on capacitor plague. I had the same symptoms and in the end a couple of bucks worth of new capacitors made it good as new ( in the interest of full disclosure my father did the repairs after I gave him the monitor ).
As with a couple of the previous commenters, I recognize that it has been a while since the beginning, but I love my Samsung 226BW as well and wish to rid my LCD of the flickering issue. Mine does go away fairly quickly still and I’m not afraid to solder, but it would be great to have some sort of roadmap to the location of those bad caps and any info on the specifications for the parts. I collect a lot of parts and may have them already, but I could also build up a Digi-Key order without too much trouble. Anyone willing to speak up with some details? Much appreciated in advance, thanks.
There are usually visible signs of bad caps: The top bulges and/or there is leakage around the base. But sometimes you’re unlucky and they have to be tested (out of circuit).
Sometimes there is an adhesive at the base of components, including caps, to keep them from moving around. (Lots of reasons for worrying about this.) Not always easy to tell them apart if the adhesive has gotten hot and aged. For this app, little chance of there being adhesive.
Once you get a good view of the caps, you can search for the part and look for equivalents. Note manufacturer and codes. Not all that simple with these types of things. The ones I replaced on an LCD monitor were low ESR. So it’s more than farads, voltage, temp. But I did it, it works great, etc.
Consider yourself encouraged to go ahead and do this. (If you’re careful about parts, soldering, etc.)
It’s definitely bad capacitors. i lost about a dozen 22" Samsungs at work to that. Google the model number, and you can find a kit with the right kinds for about 9 bucks. Replace them, and you’re good to go.
I couldn’t resist and I opened it up. In the ‘video’ section, there was a silver/black base cap that was loose - it popped off when I barely touched it. Maybe my bad, but there you go. I was able to re-attach it (though not as new). On the ‘power board’. there were definitely several bulging caps. I had a couple exact replacements and a couple ‘close-enoughs’ and I switched them out. I can see the marks on all those caps in the power section where they have been tested several times (in manufacturing?), so they were surely having problems right away. I thank everyone for there responses and I also recommend getting that kit if you can find it, as well as touching up the solder on any caps that you aren’t planning on replacing. I hope my repair lasts as long as I need the monitor!
After checking out the link from a few comments above this one, I highly recommend that you go that route - the price is not bad and they did all the research for you and that has to be worth as much as a new monitor (BTW: I have no connection whatsoever with the commenter or the company linked to). Do it - it is very satisfying!
I’ve got the same Samsung 226BW and I went on to google looking for a solution to this seemingly easy problem to my favorite monitor ever made! I was just wondering, since I have a 650 watt Corsair, (that is 2 years old) should i change that out as well as my Graphics card because I’m about to do that anyways… or is it just that pack that you need then thats that?