Aquarists - help with brackish tank for puffers

I’ve got a 25 gallon tank I’d like to make home to a green spotted puffer. I’ve never set up a brackish tank before though, so I’d appreciate any advice or anything I may need to know. Here’s what I’ve got so far:

Water conditions: 80-85 degrees, pH 7.5 - 8.5, 3-5 tablespoons of marine salt per gallon (specific gravity of 1.010 - 1.020)

Other: Sand substrate, lots of places to hide, water evaporates more quickly

I understand that green spotted puffers (the kind I’d like to get) are quite aggressive, and difficult to keep in a community tank, so he will likely have the tank all to himself unless someone can recommend another brackish fish large, agile and hardy enough to survive with a puffer.

What else should I know?

First things first…

is this tank a new setup, or is it an established tank?, either way, don’t get the GSP right away, if you add enough aquarium salt to turn the water brackish in an established tank, you’ll lose a good amount of your nitrifying bacteria, your best bet is to re-cycle your tank with some hardy fish like mollies (the plain ones), mollies actually do better in brackish than fresh water, they’re not as prone to fin fungus, puffers don’t tolerate ammonia spikes very well, and could be killed in a re-cycling tank

apparently, the GSP is brackish only in it’s juvenile stage, once it matures (2-3 years or so) it needs full marine conditions

my GSP lived a couple of years before he came down with some form of gas pocket on his side that kept him floating at the top of the tank, it was hard for him to eat, and the gas pocket evaded my attempts to cure it both medically and surgically, so i had him put down, sad really, as he had a definite personality and was so tame i could hand-feed him…

that tank now houses 6 baby Dwarf Puffers, straight freshwater fish and they won’t get any bigger than 1", dwarfs are social and have the same inquisitive, interactive personality as GSP’s

your water settings look fine, if a bit on the high brackish side

puffers are carnivores, i fed mine a staple of freeze dried krill, other foods he enjoyed were;

ghost shrimp and crawfish, he’d actually hunt these, Maylasian Trumpet Snails were a constant source of live food for him as they are livebearing snails, they’d hide in the gravel until they were big enough to be snacks, for a special treat, i’d very occasionally give him small earthworms

puffers are extremely messy fish, they generate a lot of waste, minimum tank size for a single puffer would be a 20 long or a 30, puffers tend to orient horizontally, so tank length is more important than height, a 40 breeder would be luxurious accomodations, your 25 should be fine for a single puff

make sure you have a decent power filter and heater, i use a Penguin Emporer 280 BioWheel filter and an Ebo-Jaeger 100 watt submersible heater in my 20L, you may want to step up to an Emporer 400 and perhaps a 120+ watt heater

salt-resistant plants like Java Fern and Java Moss would be good to have as well, to keep the nitrogen cycle running properly

use Instant Ocean brand salt, it’s the most consistent, i’d assume you already have a decent hygrometer, when you do water changes (50% weekly) you don’t need to add as much salt, as salt doesn’t evaporate, just the water, and never add aquarium salt directly to an occupied aquarium, mix it in a bucket outside the tank

tankmates; well, it really depends on your puff, some puffs (like mine) were fine with tankmates, he had 3 mollies (the plain variety) and 3 bumblebee gobies as tankmates, and he really didn’t care about them either way, he was more interested in interacting with me, crawfish and ghost shrimp were considered snacks, so don’t plan on any invertabrates as tankmates, they’ll end up as snacks

Puffers are great pets, yes, i said pets, they’re one of the smartest fish in the aquarium hobby (Oscars are another smart fish), your puffer will recognize you and beg for food, follow your movements around the room, i’d even say that they have emotional states, just like terrestrial animals…

for example, when i got up in the morning, Zaphod would be happily swimming up and down in his tank, begging for breakfast, i’d hand-feed him a few pieces of krill, and go to work…

when i returned from work, before he saw me, he’d be resting on the gravel, gazing down at it and looking depressed, his colors would be dull and gray, as soon as he saw me, his colors would instantly brighten up and he’d happily swim around his tank, following my motions, watching me, and begging for more food…

i really miss him, he was an awesome fish, luckilly, the dwarfs seem to be just as personable, they buzz around the tank, intently inspecting everything, and they’re just starting to learn that “The Big Hand From The Sky” gives them treats

puffers are some of the best aquarium fish, they’re not hard to keep per se, they just have rather specific requirements

One last thing, and please don’t take offense if you don’t plan to do this…

if you’re getting a puffer, please, PLEASE DO NOT attempt to make it puff up, the puffing response is a defense mechanism and is extremely stressful for the fish, they puff as a last resort to avoid being eaten.

many irresponsible owners get a puffer to puff by picking it up and stressing it (i won’t tell you how, i don’t want that information out there) so it inflates, the problem is, it’s inhaling air, and it’s hard for the puffer to expel the air, when a puffer naturally inflates as a defense mechanism, it’s using water to inflate itself, not air

don’t make your puffer puff up, unless you want to drastically shorten it’s life and make it so afraid of you it avoids you, puffers are smart enough to recognize an abusive owner that makes them puff “for fun” and will attempt to hide as best they can from the abusive owner, living under such constant stress shortens their life substansially, if you are planning on abusing a puffer, please leave the aquarium hobby immediately and find a different hobby…

(i’m going to assume you’re not planning to force your puffer to inflate, i just wanted to stick up for our finny friends, as almost everyone i’ve told about my puffers asks “have you gotten them to puff up?”, after i give them a cold, angry stare, i explain to them why making them puff is bad…)

Oh, absolutely, would never do this! I appreciate the sentiment though, far too many people think fish are just entertainment.

Thanks so much for all your advice! It’s really hard to find any good consistent info on puffers online.

I’ve been looking at them on and off for about a year now, and think it’s time to go ahead and get started.

The tank is new, so I’m going to have to set up from scratch. Mostly I’m not sure how to cycle a tank for a brackish-to-marine fish. I’ll try with mollies though, or the bumblebee gobies (those seem to be a popular choice in some of the other sources I’ve read).

I’ve wanted to get a puffer mostly because I’ve heard they really are some of the most responsive and intelligent fish. The ones at my local store are amazingly responsive, and I just can’t resist a face like that!

I’ve got 120 watt heater and a 200 gps biowheel filter - do you think I need a higher filter? What about a diatom filter? I’ve only ever had freshwater tanks myself, but I’ve helped my dad and my brother maintain marine aquariums. A brackish tank will be a first.

It will be a couple weeks, likely, until I can look at getting fish. I’d just like to know how to get everything set up for their arrival. Thanks so much!

tell me about it… :wink:

actually, a couple of good sources are;
The Puffer Forum, a forum specifically for puffers and their pet humans :wink:

Dwarfpuffers.com
this site is specific to the dwarf puffer

a couple of advantages of the brackish tank are;
1; there’s no brackish algae, at least none that will appear in aquaria
2; there are very few brackish parasites and diseases

bumblebees are too small to effectively cycle a 25 gallon tank, they barely have enough biomass to cycle a 10, they’re also sensitive to ammonia spikes, they’re not hardy enough to cycle with, mollies are a good hardy fish to cycle with, in a 25, go with 3-4 mollies, i reccomend 3, but i prefer to understock my tanks and load up on plants, that way i can, in theory, go a month between water changes, the combination of the BioWheel filter, the heavy planting and low fish/invertabrate bioload means for the most part, the nitrogen cycle is self-sustaining

oh they are, believe me, even my tiny 1/2" Dwarfs are learning to beg for snails, and i’ve had them less than a week, i think they appreciate the fact i rescued them from their overcrowded tank at petsmart…

i like to overfilter my tanks by at least a factor of 10, so on your 25 gallon tank, you should be filtering a minimum of 250 GPH, remember puffers, especially large ones (the GSP grows to 6+ inches in adulthood) generate a lot of waste, you could get by with your 200, but make sure you do weekly 50% water changes

if you don’t want to replace your filter, add a submersible power filter like the Hagen #2 Submersible to pick up the slack from your existing filter

also, live plants are your freinds, the more the better, they use the fish waste as fertilizer, consume the nitrate produced by your nitrifying bacteria and enhance the water’s oxygenation, they keep your artificial ecosystem in balance

It will be a couple weeks, likely, until I can look at getting fish. I’d just like to know how to get everything set up for their arrival. Thanks so much!
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step 1; set up tank, set salinity
step 2; add in 3 mollies (or do fishless cycling, more humane)
step 3; keep an eye on your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels, once the tank has cycled, add the puffer, don’t overload the tank though, add fish slowly, if you go for fishless cycling, add the mollies first, wait a couple of weeks, then add the puffer

an easy way to tell the tank has cycled is to see if the water has a whitish haze in it, if it does, it’s too early for fish, a cycled tank will have crystal clear water

info on cycling a tank
more cycling info

one other thing, if your father has the same filter as you, preferably one with dual BioWheels, you can borrow one of his BioWheels to speed up cycling, if he has a freshwater or brackish tank, you might want to borrow some gravel from his aquarium, the nitrifying bacteria colonize on all irregular surfaces in the tank, the gravel, rocks, on the BioWheel, on the filter cartridges…

using some gravel or rocks from a cycled aquarium will speed up the cycling process, it won’t eliminate it, it may cut it by a few days, also, the “Bacteria in a bottle” water treatments will help as well, it won’t eliminate the need for cycling, but it will shorten the length of time it will take

Bio-Spira i’ve heard works quite well, but i’m skeptical, it seems far too “snake oil-esque” to me, and something about the idea of “patented” bacteria rubs me the wrong way, anyway, it’s a moot point, as Marineland isn’t making any right now so they can “meet demand” or something, call me cynical but it sounds like B.S. to me…