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Wonderful and excellent thread, lalenin! I’ve often wondered what life is like in Cuba.
I live in Toronto; every winter we see ads for travel to ‘warm, sunny Cuba’, with pictures of happy couples disporting themselves on some brilliant tropical beach while turquiose waves roll in. It’s known as a relatively-inexpensive place to go for a week in the sun, the kind of holiday where you shut yourself away from the world on the hotel property and forget about the world. I believe there are tours of Old Havana, etc, but I get the impression that tourists mixing with Cubans is not particularly encouraged.
I presume these ads are placed on behalf of the official Cuban government tourism agency?
I’ve often wanted to go, but I’ve also been hesitant: uncertain about how to behave when one of my extremely-average paycheques might be able to support the average Cuban family for a year. Are we expected to tip the staff at the hotels? If we talk to them, are they in danger of being ‘ideologically contaminated’, so to speak, and becoming less loyal to the regime? Would I endanger them this way?
One of my friends went to Cuba a few years ago for the 5th (I think) All-American Congress of Esperanto (next year it’s in Montreal). I should ask him about this. Is Esperanto known at all in Cuba, or would this simply have been another foreign convention pumping money into the government’s pockets?
:: pause ::
I just came back from lunch and was chatting with a co-worker. Turns out the reason I hadn’t seen her last week was that she spent a week in Cuba!
She’d been to the all-inclusive resort at Varadero Beach, but she’s also spent a couple of days in Havana.
She said that tourists could leave the resort and travel around, but that facilites and shops for them were mostly segregated from those for Cubans, with the tourists paying much more. She said that this was so that tourists, with their greater money, didn’t displace Cubans from buses, shops, etc. She gave the example of a tourist bus from the resort to Havana, a distance of about 140 km, costing about $15 Canadian per person, but a similar bus for Cubans costing about $1.
My main question: for the past year or so, I’ve seen the Special Period in Cuba being held up as an example of a society’s successful (or at least, “not completely catastrophic”) adaptation to loss of energy supplies, when Soviet supplies of oil ceased after the Soviet Union fell apart, and the US embargo was still in effect.
Without fertilizer and pesticide inpuuts, local agriculture went organic, and people gardened in the cities. Private transport declined, public transport was rearranged. People got thinner, but society stayed together.
I’ll see whether I can find a link to the article describing this; it was in Permaculture Activist magazine a few months ago.
Some people point to impending shortages of oil and especially natural gas in North America, and say that we may need to take some lessons from the Cuban experience.
What was your experience, if any, of the Special Period? The changes to agriculture? Was there starvation? Was there unrest, or did people pull together like the British did in World war 2?
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Lots of questions. Let me try to answer them. Your friends experience of tourism apartheid is correct, but the explanation of it being done to “not displace the Cubans” is major BS. The shops the tourists go to do not take anything but hard currency (pesos convertibles), which are out of reach for almost every Cuba. But even those Cubans with access to hard currency are not allowed in the resorts and hotels.
If you do go to Cuba and are looking for a cultural experience do not stay in an all inclusive, the only Cubans you’ll see are those working there. But if you do stay there please tip, the workers there are paid $15-20 a month in cuban currency, that’s all.
Esperanto? I’m sure it is taught at university, but I was never exposed to it.
Now to your main question, the special period. There was just no food, no power, no gasoline, no water, nothing. People starved, and people died, mostly from nutritional deficiencies. At one point so many people were ending up in hospitals for malnutrition that the government was forced to distribute doses of vitamins to bring the situation under controls.
It was during the special period that a huge protest broke out in Havana, the only one ever against the government as far as I know, in 1994 I think, it was called the Maleconazo because it took place in front of the Malecon. Fidel showed up for a couple of minutes to try to personally calm the situation and had to be rushed away when the crowd went after him. After that trucks carrying thugs with sticks were brought over and the protestors were beaten or arrested. I was in Havana at the time but was not allowed to leave work so I did not see this.
The very next day power was restored in Havana, and food started appearing in stores again. It has not been that bad since that time, but that was bad, bad, bad.
If the US or Canada start taking lessons from Cuba prepare yourself for food shortages. That is a terrible idea.
I could talk about the special period for days, it was the darkest time I have ever lived through.