The printer in question is a LaserWriter 4/600 PS. The ancient mac it used to be connected to is now pretty much defunct, BUT the printer is fine, and I even have a spare unused toner cartridge to go with it, so I wouldn’t mind keeping it on. The computer I would like to attach it to runs windows XP. I’m not even sure what kind of a cable I would need.
I can’t find anything on Apple Support specifically about that type of printer, but if it’s not officially possible maybe someone out there knows a ‘bodge’ that would get it to work.
your printer has a serial port. What you need, then, is a null modem cable to connect your printer to your PC. You can try various postscript printer drivers from the Windows install CD, or download drivers from Adobe.
Connect your printer and PC, install the driver, point the driver at your serial port, and give it a try.
Warning:
I own neither Windows nor a Laserwriter. The above is pieced together from poking around the internet and may be incomplete and/or totally fucking wrong.
That would make for a faster connection, certainly. Those adapters are available, and cost about $100. The driver for the printer is just a generic Postscript level 2. The only real catch is this:
How does Windows transport the printer data over the network connection? None of the sources for ethernet to LocalTalk adapters mentions this. It most certainly isn’t the normal protocol Windows uses to print over Ethernet.
A LocalTalk adapter won’t help you. You’d still be running AppleTalk on the Ethernet side, and Windows on it’s own can’t understand AppleTalk. You’d need something like TSStalk to use it that way.
Your best bet is using the serial port on the computer, as Mort Furd mentioned. This, however, requires a DIN-8 to DB-9 adapter. You can probably find one online.
Here is a link from a person that has gotten to work with his PC using Linux. I haven’t found anything about getting it to work using Windows but there should be something similar.
peterW, that guy got it to work using a Localtalk-to Ethernet adapter and a piece of software called Netatalk, which does the same thing for a UNIX machine as TSStalk does for a Windows machine (enable it to speak AppleTalk). The catch is, Netatalk is free while TSStalk is not. The OP would have to buy a LocalTalk adapter and TSStalk, and at a combined cost near $250, may make it more economical to replace the LaserWriter with a decent inkjet. trabi, if you really want to make them work together, drop me an email and I could probably figure something out that’s not too expensive.
Serial WILL work with an adapter. I used to use my old, beat up LaserWriter with my PC laptop serial port. Make sure you have the manual so you can set the DIP switches. Serial is old and archaic (like the parallel port), so you need to set up the PC to match parity, baudrate, checkbits, and all that fun stuff.
Thanks for all your replies, and apologies for not checking in sooner, but I had to leave town for a couple of days and only this computer knows my passwords.
You’ll have to bear with me, I’m not a computer whizz.
First of all, Mort furd says I could use a ‘null modem cable’ to connect the computer to the printer. I have a cable that I used to use to connect my old Mac to a dialup modem. The modem end of the cable seems to be compatible with the LPT1 port of my computer, and the end that was previously plugged into the Mac can plug into the LaserWriter. Is this the cable you were referring to? Or is it somehow wired up differently?
I’ve tried connecting the two using this cable, but can’t seem to get it to work. Windows XP seems to have drivers for a bunch of LaswerWriters, but not for the 4/600 PS. I can’t find any other drivers anywhere on the web, so maybe Cleophus is right, and it’s going to be too expensive.
Balthisar, where do I find these DIP switches? I’m afraid I don’t have the manual, and parity, baudrate etc are a bit over my head.
Adobe has a generic postscriptdriver for Windows that should work.
The cable you’ve got is almost the right thing. Take it to a computer shop, and tell them you need a null-modem adapter that fits the PC end. This thing crosses the RXD and TXD lines so that the data going out (TXD) of one unit goes to the data input (RXD) of the the other unit. It also crosses some lines that are needed for hand shaking, so while you could make one yourself, it is probably easier just to buy one. If it runs over about $10, then it is too expensive.
The null modem adapter will probably leave you with the wrong connector on the PC end of the cable. To fix this, you’ll need a “gender bender” which is wired straight through and has the same connector on each end. This can be a cable or a small adapter.
Thanks for all your help so far. I’ve downloaded the generic driver, and will buy the adapters sometime in the week. (I can probably take them back if they don’t work, so no great risk.)
I’ll let you know how it goes, but I might still need some help with those DIP switches. By the way Cleophus, thanks for your kind offer. I might still take you up on it, but I’ll see if the generic driver/null modem cable solution works first before bothering you about it.
