Can I Safely Recut a Matt for a Picture Frame?

Factual Questions
1

So I have this 100+ year old map of the Oceania area and it is kind a weird size. I ordered a picture frame for it with a matt to “even up” some of the odd blank space around it (like, 1/2" of border in the height dimension and a 1.5" border in the length dimension) so it would look nice & even in the frame.

Naturally, I specified the dimensions of the matt wrong. I don’t know what I was thinking. But, I needed, say, 3 inches of matt in the lengthwise dimension and instead of specifying 1.5 inches on EACH side, I put down 3 inches. On each side. :smack:

I have this very, very sharp hobby knife, it is about Exacto-sharp if you know what I mean, basically a razor-blade knife.

My question is this: I know the angle won’t be perfect, but this ain’t a da Vinci painting, if things are not perfect, no one will notice, and it won’t bother me…are there any “gotchas” in recutting this matt to the correct dimensions? Will the matt material tear, get ragged, in general look like crap? Or can I expect to achieve a reasonably clean cut here?

The matt is nothing special, like foam core or anything, just your basic matt with a white center.

Yes, if I was in the USA, I’d just go down to a ploace that does this, but that is not an option, and it will take 2 weeks to get another one from the place…maybe 3, maybe 4 weeks if the Army planes are loaded or what-the-heck-ever.

I won’t be able to see the answers until tomorrow, so don’t think I’m ignoring anyone, I will check this thread in about 22 hours.

Unless our satellite link goes down. Again.

2

Personaly, I would order a correctly cut mat. And while you’re ordering, a can of archival de-acidifying spray.

What you have is maybe not an original masterpiece, but it is an historical document. Most paper will disintigrate over time due to the acid and lignon in wood pulp (hence the de-acidification spray). If it is linen paper, this step won’t be necessary.

The mat itself should be cut with a regular mat knife. You’re more apt to cut yourself with an Xacto, not to mention the bevel would be very difficult to get right.

If it has waited 100+ years to be framed, two more weeks shouldn’t be a problem. Done correctly, you will have a nice piece to enjoy for many years. I’m envious!

missred

3

You probably could, but Matt would be awfully upset.

Unless you meant a “matte”?

4

The item you’re talking about is called a mat. One “t.”

What dimensions are correct, the inside or the outside? It’s pretty easy to cut the outsides of a mat with a straightedge and a razor. I would recommend a utility knife (like this), not an X-acto type of knife.

If you’ll be cutting the inside, you might not want to even try to make the angled, beveled edge. If you’re careful you can still do it. Draw your new lines with a light pencil, then put the straightedge on the out side, just off from the line and run your knife (you can use an Xacto for this) along the line with the back of the knife resting on the straightedge. Practice first on some cardboard or cereal box board first if you can.
(I’d tell you to get a beveled edge cutter, but it sounds like ordering a new mat would be just as easy.)

5

My parents have cut their own mats before, and it turned out decent enoughfor their purposes. My dad is a meticulous measuerer/straight edge man so there was no problem with the size or straightness.

They do look obviously hand-cut up close, just because there is a little bit of raggedness to the mat (it just doesn’t look “finished”) and of course no beveled edge.

But really, they look just fine.

6

Assuming the mat and mounting board are already acid-free, I’d leave the document alone. If it’s already survived 100+ years, chances that it’s already acid-free are pretty good.

If the mat and mounting board are not acid-free, I’d chuck them and buy acid-free buffered materials. Buffered board contains a slight amount of pH-basic chemistry (usually, they use calcium carbonate) to neutralize any stray acidity that happens to wander by.

For the OP - how were you planning to mount the document in the frame? (Please don’t say Scotch tape or spray glue!)

7

Place non-glare plastic in frame.
Place mat/matte (see, I learn!) against plastic.
Place document against matte.
Place foam backboard (or whatever it’s called) against document.

NO, no tape or glue…shudder…

The incorrect dimensions are the inside ones.

Thanks to everyone else for the advice, it is much appreciated.

I will order another mat/matte, but in the meantime, since this one is useless for anything else, (the outside dimensions are not standard; I had the frame custom-cut and the mat/matte only will fit it) I figure I might as well get some temporary use out of it.

I will take the advice to not try a bevel cut and just go with a straight cut. With the advice you all gave me, I think I’ve got a pretty decent chance of getting something at least halfway presentable while I wait for a new matte to arrive.

The matte is buffered. I didn’t know quite what that meant, but it was recommended, so I rodered it that way.

Again, thank you all!

8

I’ve tried hand-cutting mats for old artworks I mount as a hobby, and it sucks. I’ve never been able to do it properly. Good luck.