My catalytic converter has developed a rattle/grinding noise, specifically at 1800-2000 RPM. It’s super annoying, but doesn’t seem to have any of the other symptoms of a failed catalytic converter (loss of engine power/efficiency, foul smelling exhaust, check engine light). I had my mechanic do a quick check to verify where the noise is coming from, and he said it was loose substrate within the converter rattling around. Quoted me $1600 to replace it - said that the exhaust pipe was old and rusted and should be replaced at the same time. My muffler is newer though and had to be replaced about 6 years ago, so it should be good.
According to repairpal.com “Catalytic Converter Replacement costs between $1303 and $1585 on average.” so that’s not a crazy number. Other repair estimate sites seem to indicate that labor cost is only about $100-300 of the cost, and that most of it ($1200ish) is the part cost.
But, when I google replacement catalytic converters for my car, most models are between $100-200 (universal weld to fit) -example or $300-400 (vehicle-specific factory mounting style) - example.
So if I can buy a retail converter for $100-400, and the labor involved is $100-300, where does the standard price of service being $1400-1600 come from? Even using the high range of those numbers that’s only $700. I know shops mark up prices for parts, but they’re paying wholesale, not retail, so they shouldn’t be several times the cost of buying a retail part, right?
Is there something I’m missing here? Is the markup that repair shops charge for parts 3-4x the retail cost of them? The sites I’ve been looking at suggest that a catalytic converter costs $1200-2000, but every actual place I can buy one has them in the $100-400 range.
So I’d like to be able to go to an exhaust shop and have some idea of what I’m talking about or what to expect.
Is the $1600ish price fair? Why does it not seem to add up?
Could I buy a part at retail and have them install it for a few hundred bucks and save money that way?
Is it worth springing the extra for a factory OE style fit vs a cut and weld universal?
Do you have one cat or two? Was the price quoted for a generic one or OEM? Does the downstream O2 sensor(s) need to be replaced? Is the mechanic doing just the cat or does it come as a bigger section designed to fit into your car?
All these things can change the cost. Yes, the labor is low because there’s not a whole lot going on down there. Cut the old one out, weld the new one it. They’ll probably spend more time trying to get the bolts out of the flanges than anything else.
You could ask them about bringing in your own part and having them install it, but it’s my understanding that some shops will decline to do it and the ones that will install customer supplied parts won’t offer any warranty (parts or labor) on the job.
You didn’t mention the make/model of the car. If it’s older and you’re not worried about it, it may be worth finding a friend with a welder and getting one on your own or pulling one from a junkyard and doing it yourself.
As for OEM vs generic or specific to your car vs universal. Personally, I’d go with the cheapest option. Likely a generic, universal fit. The mechanic can cut the old one out with a angle grinder or torch and weld the new one in. It shouldn’t take long.
Also, I assume you’re at an independent garage, not a dealership.
This is a typical example of a cat replacement procedure. As you can see, a “simple” job is not necessarily an easy one. Try imagining doing this on your back in the driveway.
They usually don’t fail on their own though. Sometimes they mechanically fail like what might have happened here, but 80 percent of the time, you have other stuff going on causing this to fail. Might want to have it all checked out so you don’t repeat this procedure again.
I would guess the higher price is if you buy the part from a dealer. (Some repair shops like to do this.) The difference between dealer prices for OEM parts and prices for aftermarket parts is tremendous.
Your muffler was replaced 6 years ago? Probably you should go ahead and replace that too: mufflers just don’t last that long. Actually go ahead and replace the entire exhaust system.
Just call up some muffler shops for quotes (independent shops too). I think the big difference in prices you are seeing is the difference between generic mufflers and OEM parts.
I just replaced my catalytic converter this weekend. My “go-to” repair shop quoted me $1,300. The dealer did it for $825.
I would have ignored the check engine light and the “replace catalytic converter” code if not for the fact that the car would not have passed inspection.
My car runs no better for the replacement. If I could have gotten away with just putting electrical tape over the check engine light, I would have.
ETA: I have a car that is 29 years old, 260,000 miles and is on the original converter. It still functions to factory spec, but the car is very well maintained and is running like its new.
I had to replace the catalytic converter on my 20 year old truck this year (passing emissions testing was definitely a factor). Got the work done for a bit over $900, so you might want to shop around a bit. But it’s definitely going to be in that price range at a minimum.
(My truck is running a bit better since then. I’m not sure other folks would notice it, but I have been driving it 20 years and I’m pretty in tune with how it runs)
Most catalytic converters, I’d say the great majority, are replaced not because of making noise but because of failing to do their job, catalyzing reactions that reduce emissions from exhaust gases. Field experience has shown that for many vehicles, especially Asian and European designs, budget-priced aftermarket converters don’t do the job well or for long. Repair shops have learned in many cases cheap converters = problem recurs within several months to a year or so = unhappy customers. The way to avoid this is to use factory parts, which are often in the $500-1500 range for just the part.
Just recently I’ve seen high-grade aftermarket converters with a 5 year performance warranty, and in talking to a company consultant I can tell they really know their stuff. If their converters hold up as claimed this could change things as the word gets out to shops. The prices are noticeably less than typical factory parts, but still signifcantly more than the cheaper ones mentioned in the OP.
So $1600 buys you high quality and years of reliable service, whereas a few hundred usually means having to do it again before too long.