Whirlpool Model leq558kq0. The only way to get the dryer to work is to put upward pressure on the timer knob. Sometimes if you carefully let go it will continue to run, sometimes not. I am assuming I need a new timer. Is there anything else I should check before I order one?
With the power off, carefully check all the connections to the timer. Maybe even pull off each wire and push it back, looking for a loose or corroded one.
All good? Timer. Good prices on line.
Mostly agree with AB, could be a loose connection, probably something bad internal to the timer.
I’m seeing that the timer is about $90 online. My go to place (repairclinic . com) shows two timers for that model, but I didn’t spend any time looking into it beyond that.
If you’re comfortable doing this kind of stuff, once you have the timer in hand, it’ll probably take an hour to do the job, with 40 minutes of that time just being ripping the dryer apart and putting it back together.
If you’re not comfortable doing it, evaluate if it’s worth putting a $90 part (plus tax and shipping) into this machine when you can get a new one for $300-$400 (nothing special, granted, but it’s new and you don’t have to worry when the next part will break).
Thanks, I will do that. It does not even seem that hard to do.
One hint:
get the old time open & accessible, with all the wires still connected. Then put the new timer next to it, and move wires one-by-one to the appropriate terminal on the new one.
DO NOT disconnect all the wires from the old one and then start replacing them on the new one. That will take at least twice as long, in extra time needed to try to figure out the correct terminal, re-reading the instructions, checking online, etc.
Repeated for hard-learned veracity. 
Also order the replacement from the part number on the timer, not a generic appliance model or even (sometimes) the full marked model number on the plate. Running changes, replacements that serve for four or five original parts, and such can get very confusing. Order the exact part you have, or the specified replacement for that exact part.
In addition to removing the old timer, installing the new one then moving the wires, you can also (if possible) take some pictures, that’s always helpful.
At work, we have quite a few timers that look like this (kinda). Some digital, some mechanical, but they all do mostly the same thing; at certain times, a whole bunch of things turn on and off, then then everything flips back a little while later. Every few years one of these timers dies and I replace it. Since I’m mostly self taught, when I first started, I’d label all the wires, pull the box off, put the new one and rewire it or sometimes I’d sketch it out on paper (Yellow - X, Red - 1, White - N etc). When camera phones showed up I’d take a a few pictures and tear it all off, but sometimes the picture was lacking and I might find myself in trouble.
Then I saw a pro doing it one day and I learned that the ‘guts’ come out and all the enclosures (even across brands sometimes) are universal. I watched him as he left the box in place, unsnapped/unscrewed the timer and let it flip forward, put the new one in, then moved each wire over one at a time. It doesn’t always work, but that’s how I do it now and it’s loads easier.
I’m glad I learned that method before I had to replace the timer that had 6 wires, two orange one and 4 yellow ones and that’s it.
(ETA, looking at a picture on my phone, all the wires on that timer are actually labeled with the terminal they go to, so that’s nice)
Just wanted to add… keep this dryer going as long as you can. The new dryers with microprocessor controls are not nearly as reliable.
Would it be possible to unplug the dryer, run a wire bypassing the timer, then plug dryer back in? Either to confirm the problem, or as a temporary/permanent workaround?
I just wanted to note that I really, really love being able to poke my hand in with my phone and capture a perfectly clear, zoomable image of a data plate instead of trying to write down forty-six numbers while standing on my head with a flashlight in my teeth.
It really has made a difference. Everything from trying to write down a model number in the middle of winter when your hands are freezing cold to trying to see the model number on the back of a unit that’s against a wall to even being able to use the picture to be able to read an otherwise unreadable model number because it’s so worn.
I also use my phone because some moron put a the sight glass on one of our HVAC units on facing the wrong way.
On top of all that, what I’ll often do is take a bunch of pictures and use it to troubleshoot at home later. In the timer I posted above, I took pictures of the model of the clock, all the wiring as well as all the wiring in the near by boxes, the breaker boxes, the actual coolers and anything else. Then I can go back to my office or later at home and read up on my issue and look at schematics and not be running back and forth between my computer and the unit.