A question with a factual answer regarding a musical instrument. Imagine my dillemma …
So, I have a guitar – Samick (Yamaha knock-off) – that I like very much. It’s nothing amazing, but it has a pretty good sound and it was cheap. Hence my problem. I’ve had it for about 10 years, so maybe it’s just in its natural death throes … but it sure would be nice to be able to play it again.
The head stock developed a horizontal crack across the back. I didn’t even notice it until it was too late; I picked it up to play it one day and -clank- everything was mis-tuned. The headstock was essentially starting to hinge forward, so all the strings slackened and moved out to the sides. At this point it’s more than just noticeable, it’s probably at about a 20 degree angle or so.
My bandmate told me, “It’s a goner.” But I think that was mostly because he wants me to buy his electric/acoustic.
Is a guitar injury such as this fixable, or is it indeed “a goner?”
I’ve heard something like this is fixable with clamps and glue, but having said that I’m no luthier, and will wait for someone who knows more about guitars than I. Maybe Carson o’ genic will stop by, he seems to be an encyclopedia on this sort of thing.
I’ve seen a number of Epiphone Les Paul electric guitars whose heads have been broken off. On eBay it looks like many of these were broken in shipping to the sellers, who appear to be music stores; so they’re selling new guitars with broken heads. I saw an Epi Les Paul at my local shop (not an Epi dealer) with a repaired head.
Never having done such a repair, it seems reasonable to me that the head can be reattached with strong wood glue and clamps. It’s often said that a good glue joint is stronger than the surrounding wood. IME (not with guitars) this seems to be more or less true.
What kind of glue? I have some Tightbond II that I’ve used on furniture, and it seems to be pretty strong. I’ve heard people rave about Gorilla Glue, but I haven’t tried it myself.
Glue is cheap. Clamps aren’t that expensive. Spend a few bucks and you might have a usable guitar. If not, you’re only out a little money.
This may be even easier, according to what I’m reading here.
The crack isn’t at the base of the head, but rather about a third of the way up … like between first set of tuners and the second. A perfect crack across the back, and hinging forward.
I’m just not sure what kind of tools and/or material would make the difference. That is, would any sort of clamped, glued, whatever just be a band-aid on an arterial bleed?
Well then he’ll be doubly excited when you mention that luthiers usually use hide glue when making wood repairs. Yes, the horse being sent off to the glue factory kind.
You may need to use a couple of dowel pins to add some strength to the new joint. You have to make sure that the faces butt up cleanly, and get some good pressure with the clamps.
Success for such a repair is dependent on the following conditions; keep in mind I cannot see what you have to make better assessment.
Long grain continuity through the break. Many cheap guitars are constructed from sawn blanks and headstock setover compromises fibre strength. Better constructions use scarf joints near the volute and/or laminations to overcome. Re-gluing short grain will be a temporary fix.
A well fitting, fresh break. If the parts realign perfectly, that's the best. Smashed fibres, dirt and oxidising will hinder.
Appropriate glue. If you have ideal conditions, fresh hot glue with alignment made on warmed metal plate is best. Don't use liquid hide glue.
Lacking that, aliphatic resins work well. I would prefer Titebond, original or extend versions, but no others. You want fluidity and some open time.
Reinforcement to the repair can be made by laminating a veneer to the tension side of the peghead, i.e., the back. The face can also be done. Evaluate your tuners to see if the additional thickness can be acommodated. Use a rigid glue for this.
If I thought the repair was warranted, and conditions iffy, I'd reglue the crack and put strategic sawkerfs/slots into the head that accept close fitting long grained splines. After gluing appropriate cover veneers front/back and refinish the repair would be almost invisible.
