I want to put a privacy fence in my back yard but I don’t want the typical dog-eared fence. I want something both traditional but sort of modern. I’ve seen fences built with corrugated metal panels that I’ve liked but haven’t found any plans so I’ve drawn up my own. fence plan
Handy Dopers, what do you think? I think I’ve made it a good bit sturdier than many standard fence sections. The 1x1s are to hold the slats in the top section so I don’t have to toenail a thin board. I nicked the idea from a different fence design but I’m open to suggestions.
Anyone have experiece working with corrugated panels? Where do you even buy corrugated metal panels? I can find manufacturers online but need a source for a small quantity. (the total length of the fence is only about 100’) I’ve read online you can cut them by putting the blade in backwards on a circular saw. Anyone ever try this?
I like the way it looks but how is the corrugated fastend in place? I’d think about rust from screws staining the wood. What does the corr. sit on?
Check the design so that there are no places for water to collect. You especially dont want any water sitting against the corr. Perhaps some clear or black rubber could be integrated into the design to keep the metal and wood separate…just thinking
Interesting and industrial looking. I’d recommend using high quality wood for the top rails, and staining them nice warm color with a waxed finish. It will lend class to the metal and prevent it from looking junkyard.
The corrugated metal is sandwiched between 1x4s at the top and bottom and 1x1s along the side. I figured I’d use corrosion resistant screws and screw the metal panel into the 1x4s (probalby in a zig-zag for strength).
On top of the top 1x4s and below the bottom 1x4s are 2x4s sitting on the long side. Same for the very top rail of the fence. I am a little worried about them collecting water but couldn’t think of a good alternative.
Cool, that’s kinda what I’m aiming for. My (old) house has a metal roof so I think it’ll look interesting without being too jarring.
I’ve never built a fence before and I know this is kind of ambitious. Do y’all think it’s doable with just a circular saw? I’m also thinking I’ll use mostly screws instead of nails.
Float the panels in the frame. Be sure to anchor the posts well, A solid panel will have great wind resistance. The whole fence row could go over in a strong wind. I think your going to have a lot of rust problems with the metal used. Change the bottom rail to two boards on each side with dowels or blocks of wood for spacers between the two rails. This will stop the water collecting and rotten out the metal and wood of the channel collecting water in your design.
Too big a solid panel that wind storms are going to raise hell with. Too many flat joints/nooks and crannies to collect and/or allow water to seep in and rot wood from the inside. There’s a reason that fence designs usually leave lots of space for wind to pass through.
How much fence do you need to put up? How many sections? Are you enclosing the back yard?
What kind of wood? Are you setting the posts in concrete?
You can screw the metal to the 1x4s, but how are you going to fix the 1x4s to the 4x4s? Toe nail? Can you dadoe the 2x4s with your circular saw?
Hmm… looks like you have a 2x4 flat undeaneth the botom of the steel. Drill holes in the flat bottom 2x4 to let water through That might not matter. The coragated steel is going to collect a LOT of wind blown organic matter. It needs to be open at the bottom.
Is the 2x4 toe nailed in at the bottom?
ehhh…
IMHO, the design is too complicated, and has too much wood, screws and nails, if you have not done something like this before.
I don’t know how much yard you are trying to enclose, but you may be better off using some angle iron laged to the posts to hang the corg steel and perhaps some 2x4s to stiffen things up.
Seriously, they sell 22-24 gauge panels made for pole barns (I think that they have several gauges; buy the thickest that you can afford.) The ones at Home Depot (Lowes, BMC West, 84 Lumber, etc.) are at least one gauge thinner and will oilcan if you look at them funny. Montopolis Supply is also cheaper than most lumberyards, or at least not any more expensive. They can cut the panels to size for a (significant) cut fee and a little lead time. I have cut steel panels with a diamond blade from Home Depot, but you have to be conscientious about getting the dust off the panels; it tends to stick in the oil coating, rust and stain the panels over time.
Montoplis Supply is a little tricky to get to though. Either cross the river on 183 and make a u-turn, or go up Montopolis, cut over to Vargas, take a left onto 183 and be ready to turn right at the end of the fence with the Chick Tract messages on it (Yes indeed, Dopers, they gave me a Chick Tract once, but it’s an important part of their lives and it’s not like the guy hit me on the head with it.)
(Yes this is a long post--sorry)
The fence looks pretty good, but it looks like a LOT of work. You are right to use blocks; toenailing is inherently weak. If I did it, I'd use cedar (or maybe Ipe since I wouldn't want to do it over in 5-10 years. Ipe has to be predrilled for every nail or screw though, and it dulls saw blades.) Pine will warp, bow and bend however it wants and you have a lot of unsupported wood in the top part. No matter which wood you use, I'd clad the 1Xs with vertical 1X boards at midpoint or at 32 inch intervals so the boards don't bow as much.
Prestain everything with a good penetrating stain with lots of solids; don't let the sun rot the wood. Also, I'd make shims of 1/8" plastic stock and nail the sides of the bottom "metal panel pocket" through the shims so that water can drain.
Use Behr dock preservative (copper napthanate) for the part of the posts six inches above ground. Copper napthanate preservative stains everything it comes in contact with, but it makes wood last. I used peeler cores (landscaping timbers) for my fence posts. These things are almost made to rot, but the posts are still strong after eight years. Also, put gravel at the bottom of each hole so that the groundwater can drain. You have black clay soil, so you might want to ask around about just bedding the posts in gravel. I have heard that this is stronger than a concrete collar since the gravel tightens with soil movement and as the wood shrinks.
I'll say it again; the design is going to take a LOT of work. I'd precut everything I thought that I could get away with and allow a lot of time to get the job done.
About 100’ total. Two sides (the other side of the backyard is an old dogear fence I’m leaving for now.
Hadn’t totally decided. Maybe cedar? I’d planned to use concrete and treated posts.
That’s one of the things I’m trying to figure out. I was thinking toenailing to the 4x4 and up into the 2x4. Or maybe angles would be better.
You know, I didn’t originally have the 2x4 at the bottom but someone at work I was showing the design to expressed concern over the strength of the bottom of the panel. But I agree, I have water collecting concerns and I actually think a 2x4 may be overkill.
I was thinking angles. Same for the one at the top.
The top 2x4 is along the long axis to provide horizontal stiffness. The 1x4s are to provide vertical stiffness to the 2x4 (I’ve seen so many saggy 2x4 fences) and to give me a way to attach the metal panel as well as hide where the panel meets the 2x4 without having to dado anything.
Those were my thoughts anyway. Thank you for the comments, that’s exactly the types of things I want to hear. I don’t have a time limit on this thing, I expect it to be a project where I may do a few panels each weekend.
Almost all the privacy fences around here are solid 6’ dogeared pickets without spaces on 2 2x4s between posts. And there are some other metal panel fences around, although they’re usually even less sturdy without wood reinforcing. And the two (or three) 2x4s about the long axis are gonna be a heck of a lot stiffer than the standard design of a 2x4 about the short axis supporting 6 to 8’ of solid planks.
I am definitely concerned about the water tho’. A lot of standard fence designs seem to use a 1x4 as a top rail, I would guess those fences have water problems too, right? I think y’all are right and that bottom 2x4 isn’t gonna add much and will collect water. If I leave it off, I think the corrugations in the metal panel will hold the1x4s apart and leave plenty of room to drain.
Hey, cool, that’s just right around the corner from me, I know right where it is.
Good idea. I’ve seen a lot of newer fences with the same basic design as my top part and they look great now but I could definitely see sag setting in.
I’m not picturing this. Plastic between the bottom 1x4s and the metal panel?
Huh, I’d been planning on using concrete. I’m east of the Balcones Fault ,in the Blackland Prarie soil area and the soil is classified as expansive.
Yeah, I figure it’ll be a big job. That’s why I want a solid design before I start. I plan to make a jig to help with the spacing for the top part but I"m sure it’s gonna take me much of the summer. But my choices are ugly boring dogear fence, super expensive custom jobbie or to build it myself.
I once saw a really cool metal fence of sorts…they made it with simple metal tubing/pipes.
They cut all the tubes in various lengths - all about the same size, but with a 2-8 inch difference in length for each tube - and then they simply pounded them into the ground next to each other. (I don’t know if they used cement to hold them into place.) It sort of looked like a giant pipe organ in the back yard when it was done, but it was a very cool effect. Sounds a lot easier than what you have planned, but I do think yours will look very nice as is.
Another idea would be to use the corrugated sheet metal, but on the side and then have it turn into a waterfall feature, with a small pump pushing water up and having it trickle down the metal into a gutter at the bottom of the fence - but that might be too much work and effort and energy consumption for your case.
Use plastic shims (large ones, to keep them from sinking into the fence as it gets old) to lift the edges of the bottom channel. It’s just an idea that will provide a drainage gap. I haven’t seen it used, and the edge pieces will probably warp a lot. A tight nailing pattern with box or casing nails (i.e., thin nails) might help with that.
No matter how, I think that there needs to be a way for the water to get out of that channel. I like Harmonious Discord’s idea of making the channel out of two boards on end with a gap at the bottom, except that the boards really need to be 2X (for strength and longevity) and there isn’t enough room on the 4X4 posts to stick two cedar 2Xs (1.75" thick) on edge and still have room for the corrugated panel. Drilling through the bottom board will probably lead to rot at the holes.
Uh, this is a super expensive custom jobbie; you’re just changing the method of payment.
To bad you can’t find aluminum for this project. We put up aluminum posts and railings for the front steps. After 5 years the only maintenance has been to wash them off and to paint the plastic caps that turned yellow. No rusting unlike the old style railing or rotting like wood.
You know, you could use galvanized Unistrut for the bottom channel. It would add a few hundred dollars to the cost of the fence, but Unistrut would stiffen the fence incredibly and the holes in a -T or -HS version would make a good drainage plain if the strut was gapped away from the bottom board. You might even do away with the bottom board and just bolt the strut to the posts.
I just talked to Fastenal, on East Ben White. They have a one day lead time for galvanized.
